GSE20IBTAFBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Had to remove all the covers and fans to expose the condenser, which was difficult as the parts were frozen to it. The styrofoam covering the condenser made it almost impossible to defrost it. Therefore, I ripped the styrofoam off to expose the condenser. Was not really difficult to fix the styrofoam cover using metal tape. Replaced temperature sensor in aluminum block, and used butyl sealant to secure. Had to also re-install parts of ice-ball kit that were not well covered. Lots of parts to keep track of, but anyone could do it.

After replacing the Defrost Thermostat, Defrost Heater Assembly, and the Main Board, I concluded that the problem must be the Defrost Thermistor, which I replaced in less than 10 minutes and it fixed the problem! I cut the wires on the old thermistor and connected the new one after stripping the wires and taped the new connections with electrical wire. Fast and easy repair (the last part anyway ;).

Replaced the everaptor fan motor. It corrected the problem By the way I am 78 Years old.

had to rewire the harness in place in freezer. should have removed door for more room to work . easy job if you have 4 foot arms and a 1 foot chest.

Anyone can do this. I am a 70 year old woman. With a kitchen knife, I gently pushed up from the bottom of the old and broken light switch to disengage the plastic catch. Then I unplugged the old one and plugged in the new one. It was then a matter of sliding in the new light switch paying attention to which side was "up". It works perfectly.

We just pried off the fan blades and pushed on the new part. Could not have been easier. The rat has been permanently dipatched and, hopefully, that is that.

Part was received quickly and quickly installed-Thank you

Removed shelves and light bulb. Undid the two screws on the back panel with nut driver. Snipped the two wire leads to the defrost thermostat. ( orange and pink wires) Carefully removed the defrost thermostat from the coil. Stripped both ends of the wire leads about a half inch and onnected with two wire nuts. Then wrapped with electrical tape to seal from moisture. Carefully attached defrost thermostat to coil. Screwed the back panel back on. Reinstalled light bulb and shelves. And plugged refrigerator back in. Works like a charm. Saved close to 100.00 dollars doing repair myself.

Defrost cycle staying on too long causing ice to melt, refreeze and seizing up ice maker. Replaced temp sensor and defrost thermostat just to be sure. Fixed the problem.

Unplugged the refrigerator first....then on the inside of the fridge, I popped the temp sensor cover off (upper LH side) and exposed the old sensor. I snipped off the old sensor about 3" down from the end and connected the new sensor (which I trimmed down to about 3" long) with some heat shrink wire nuts/connectors. Let the fridge run for a day or so and confirmed the problem was solved! Oh yeah, there was no way to tell the 2 wires apart (power vs. ground) on the sensor. However there was a manufacturer's stamp on the wires. So note the orientation of the text and mark one of the wires with a sharpie on both the old and new sensor before trimming. This will give you a reference for which wires to connect when adding the new sensor to the old wires.

removed back panel from freezer. located thermostat removed and replaced thermostat put panel and all baskets back into freezer and plugged fridge back in. Works perfect problem solved

the parts I ordered did not fix the problem the problem was with repairman did not follow the instruction and cut jumper wire on main control board

Removed the back pannel from inside the freezer. Defrosted the ice build up. Removed the shroud from the back top of the freezer. ( This contains the fan and the light assembly). Removed the fan and replaced the motor. Cut the wire for the temperature sensor and wired in the new one. removed the defrost thermostat and replaced with the new one. Reassembled the unit and reinstalled it into the freezer compartment. replaced the pannel and plugged unit back in.

I was intimidated by this repair(as I am with most repairs), because there were 2 possible problems. But being able to purchase both parts for $30 (including shipping) made it worth a try. Thanks to the instructional videos that were sent, the repair was much easier than I anticipated. For me, the hardest part was fitting my shoulders in the narrow freezer. Now the appliance works like a charm. This would have been a $150-$200 repair had I called a company to do it.

Used small screw driver to pry the top of the switch away from left inside wall of freezer side of side-by-side refrig./freezer; then used pliers to remove the switch; then removed the 3 prong socket and plugged it to new switch and installed it into the inside wall of the freezer.