GLM25KESBGS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I followed the instructions on a posted desctiption. It workded perfectly. Replacing the inner door panel was not as difficult as described. Just start the process with the screws in the middle of the door. Those two screw holes were not slots. All of the remaining screw holes had slots. I installed all of the door screws before tightening any. I workded right the first time.

I started out replacing a bad thermostat, no problem,
when I hooked up the water, I found that the water resovior had a leak.
I replaced the resovior, easy fix, but I had to buy two 5/16 brass couplers.
then I found that the box would not get below 10 degrees, and the suction pressure was very low.
I figured that the fan motor was burned out, so I opened up the access covers, the fan motor was hanging there with broken mounts, so I replaced the motor, and repaired the mount.
Everything works great now, The parts shiping was very fast, I was impressed.
I thought I was going to get away without fixing everyones
HVAC problems when I retired.
Friends and family still remember that you are the HVAC man.
Tom

Had to defrost the freezer to melt off all the ice before servicing. Once that was done the icemaker replacement only took about 15-30 minutes to complete. The new icemaker came with many accessories and adaptors that were not needed and the instructions were based on replacing an older model and not really clear for my model. They mentioned not being able to use the new stripper but it was exactly the same as the old one so I left the new one in place. All in all it was easy and did the job.

no instructions came with the part so I wrote for help from your techs. They were able to tell me how to access the solenoid. From there I was able to figure the rest out. I had to remove the trim, electrical board, flap, springs and arm to reach the screws necessary to remove the solenoid. I removed some of the corrosion with a baking soda paste so I could remove the screws. I carefully noted each step and position of the parts I removed and reversed the process to put things back after replacing the solenoid.

We followed the instructions we found on this site.

First we unplugged the refrigerator.

Then we removed the control panel that has the ice type selection on it by releasing the three spring latches. These are accessible from the bottom of the panel looking up toward the ice dispenser. There are three holes. Press a narrow screwdriver or punch in each of these holes and then pull out the control panel. (Be careful not to disconnect the wires, but observe how the wires are routed.)

Then we removed the ice tube cover that covers the solenoid assembly. There were four screws. One was very rusty and it required some WD40 to loosen it. Once the cover was removed the solenoid was visible on the right. (It has a floating component that attaches to the "arm" of the flap. This is how the solenoid opens and closes the flap. The flap needs to close properly so ice does not build up in the door.)

There were three screws that had to be removed to get the solenoid out. (The top one you may just need to loosen once the bottom two are removed.) When the solenoid was removed we also removed the old floating component from the flap are and replace it with the new one. We slid this into the solenoid hole and then screw it in with the three screws.

Before we attached everything, we plugged in the refrigerator to test the solenoid. We dispensed some ice and waited to hear the flap close. (The flap close is slightly delayed so be patient.)

We attached the cover that was over the solenoid being careful to route the wires as they were when we started. We test the solenoid again. Then we snapped the control panel back into place and tested again.

We found that having the right size screwdriver made a difference especially dealing with rusty screws. It was also handy to have a good flashlight. Having extra hands was helpful to hold the control panel and cover while working on the solenoid and routing the wires.

had to remove ice maker and several panels to get to the fan. wires for fan encapsulated so had to cut old and new wires then solder them together while working inside the small freezer area. not too bad all in all took about an hour to get it done. no more wind thru the trees noise and is working fine

Unplugged the freezer. Then I gained access to the fan: remove the top freezer rack, remove the ice tray, remove the air flow manifold(needed to unscrew some screws), remove the manifold over the fan and cooling element. I unscrewed the fan mounting bracket. The fan motor's wires are plumbed through some plastic that i would have had to remove, so I decided instead to cut the wires and splice in the new fan motor. Then I put everything back together - the new motor works fine and doesn't make the whining noise.

I read instructions in all of the other repair stories everything went smooth no problems. Went and examined freezer door too see which type of door I had front or rear access. Popped off front LED panel, unpluged wires, removed 4 screws holding ice chute, removed 3 screws holding solenoid, slipped off solenoid pin, replaced all items in reverse order. This is one great site.

First i removed two screws that holds the ice maker in, unplug the plug to the ice maker. I was able to remove the old one. Place the new one in screwed in the two screws and pluged in the plug and in just a little while i had ice again. I am a women, if i can do it any one can. I had a repair man tell me it was going to be $250.00 dollars to replace it. I got on line ordered the ice maker and had it in 4 days. Very fast shipping and easy to install. Tina Kearns Beaumont, Calif

I searched the site, found the part - solenoid, watched the "how to" video and the repair was a snap. Saved myself tons of money versus having a repair person come over. I do have an older model and needed to prop the front cover panel off with a screwdriver (just under the covering) saw this on a posting from another individual, thanks for the heads up.

Look at various pertenant DYI articles and videos on the internet. Replaced water filter with bypass plug. Checked water flow to icemaker water solenoid. Ran icemaker diagnostic test which failed. Ordered replacement. On receipt of replacement, began replacement work. To wit: Pulled fiidge from wall and unplugged. (Not necessary to shut water off.) Removed small freezer basket. Unloaded main freezer basket, removed it then removed the freezer door. (A screw on each side bolts the door rail of the chassis slide to the freezer chassis slide.) Loosened screws on rear, top of partition between icemaker and small freezer basket. Pushed up on partition front and popped out U-bar supporting partition bottom being carefull not to bend it. Removed same. Removed screws from partition and set aside. Removed grilled "thingy" between rear of icemaker and partition. Now have access to icemaker screws. Loosened the screws, pushed up and out and carefully let it hang by it's connector. Fiddled with the connector locking tabs and finally got it loose. Compared old and new icemaker. Have to keep the old water funnel. The new wiring harness was stiff and the connector had a different orientation. Twisted both the wiring harness and connector to align connector while the icemaker hung by it's cable being careful not to let the icemaer slip and fall to the bottom. After much fiddling, got the connector inserted and locked. Set icemaker over the two screws, pulled it down and tightend the screws. Put the old funnel into the new unit being very careful to get it right the first time. Put grilled "thingy and the partition and U-bar back in, put door back on, put the ice cube bin back, freezer drawers bac and reloaded the frozen food, plugged fridge in. Done! Time to replace icemaker was about 20 minutes and another 2 hours to do the rest ofthe work. Still required only a nutdriver and phillips.

unplug refrigerator. Remove Ice bin then remove the cover off the ice maker,(slides off from bottom then lift off top) no reason to remove ice maker completely. Remove center gear screw and remove main gear from Ejector blade. remove (3) screws holding the front plate. The motor and switches are attached to this plate from behind, do not remove the nut from the from the stud that adjusts the travel for the motor. The Motor and switches will come upt with the plate and the shut off arm will come out of a hole in the top right. Its ok just be careful when you put it back to get it in the hole. remove the old cam and replace it wint the new one and reassemble. Its a bit tricky to get all of the microswitches over the new cam just carefully wiggle the plate and cam and don't push too hard. once everything is lined up it should go back together and you can replace the screws and main gear :)

I followed the video provided, and followed the advice of bill from cleveland hts. ohio, and did not have to remove the trim to access everything. The video made it so simple, a monkey could have learned how in 5 minutes. Thank you very much for all the help on this website. I will recommend it to all.

Video is a great but still need to read the instuctions because there are parts you may need on the old ice maker. Saved myself a bit of money by not having to call a repairman. The process was very simple. I am glad I did it myself. Thank you Parts Select!

The model we have, the front panel snaps into place. It was removed for access and the electrical connectors unplugged. Four screws and the chute assembly was removed. Removing three screws and opening the chute door allowed the solenoid assembly to be removed without removing the door assembly. All parts and area were cleaned and the assemmbly was the process in reverse.
Guideline to prolong recurrance: always put ice into glass first to reduce splashing of ice falling into liquids causing the solenoid armature to rust and stick.