GSS23GMPBCES General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Joe from Alvin, TX
- Parts Used:
- WR17X20449
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The plastic lug holding the spring broke free, so the paddle had no way to return to its original position
1) Use plastic spudgers to remove the front control panel by levering on the front bottom of the plastic
2) Unscrew 4 retaining screws from the internal assembly
3) Slide clear plastic ice chute from the internal assembly
4) Lift the paddle 90 degrees to remove it
5) Place the spring on the paddle lug such that the long side fits in the groove on the back
6) Press the spring back, and slide the paddle into the paddle holder at a 90 degree angle
7) Once installed the short side of the spring should press against the plastic to force the paddle to its default position
8) Slide the ice chute back into the assembly
9) Replace the 4 screws holding the assembly to the refrigerator
10) Replace the front control panel
I may have missed a step here or there, but nothing major. Be mindful of the switches, and the placement of the wires. The entire process took maybe 5 minutes. I would say the most difficult part is getting the control panel off, it kind of feels like it might break, but it's a pretty robust piece.
2) Unscrew 4 retaining screws from the internal assembly
3) Slide clear plastic ice chute from the internal assembly
4) Lift the paddle 90 degrees to remove it
5) Place the spring on the paddle lug such that the long side fits in the groove on the back
6) Press the spring back, and slide the paddle into the paddle holder at a 90 degree angle
7) Once installed the short side of the spring should press against the plastic to force the paddle to its default position
8) Slide the ice chute back into the assembly
9) Replace the 4 screws holding the assembly to the refrigerator
10) Replace the front control panel
I may have missed a step here or there, but nothing major. Be mindful of the switches, and the placement of the wires. The entire process took maybe 5 minutes. I would say the most difficult part is getting the control panel off, it kind of feels like it might break, but it's a pretty robust piece.
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- Customer:
- George from ARLINGTON, VA
- Parts Used:
- WR02X12274, WR01X10210
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Stripped Front Leveling Roller & Screw
Raised side of fridge enough to get 1/4" ratchet with 1/4" socket under roller wheel assy. Removed three hex-head screws to separate damaged wheel assy from fridge frame. From panel below fridge compartment, backed-out stripped leveling screw. Mounted new roller assy and then threaded in new leveling screw from front. Lowered fridge and adjusted leveling screw for proper height. Suggest putting a 2x4 under fridge for safety when hands are under unit.
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- Customer:
- Timothy from Hartford, MI
- Parts Used:
- WR51X10101
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Coils in Freezer over frosted restricting air flow.Warm Frig.
1) Unplug Refrigerator. Remove all shelves and light shield in the freezer.
2)Remove panel covering refrigeration coils inside freezer in back. Two hex head screws w/nut driver.
3)Remove the defrost heater using phillips screw driver. Two screws.
4)Unplug two quick disconnect stakons and wires from heater.
5)Plug the wire coming down the right side into one side of the new heater and plug the shipped white wire into the other quick disconnect spade at the heater.
6)Install the new dual element defrost heater into the same place where the old was. Connections to the right.
7)Route the wire that was on the left across the top of the coils and down the right side.
8)Bring the existing wire from the left side down the right side and the white wire up the right side. Wires should not be tight at all and do not remove the tape at the stakon.
9)Now wires need to be cut (if necessary)and crimped together in the shipped stakon. This stakon looks like a wire nut.
10)Wires should be tucked gently into the styrofoam up and down the right side. Wirenut should be positioned so that water can not collect in it.
11)Replace the panel over the cooling coils.
12)Plug Refigerator back into the wall outlet. Put shelves and light shield back in.
13)My refrigerator is now working without a problem. It's been est two weeks.
Ice maker is also working correctly.
2)Remove panel covering refrigeration coils inside freezer in back. Two hex head screws w/nut driver.
3)Remove the defrost heater using phillips screw driver. Two screws.
4)Unplug two quick disconnect stakons and wires from heater.
5)Plug the wire coming down the right side into one side of the new heater and plug the shipped white wire into the other quick disconnect spade at the heater.
6)Install the new dual element defrost heater into the same place where the old was. Connections to the right.
7)Route the wire that was on the left across the top of the coils and down the right side.
8)Bring the existing wire from the left side down the right side and the white wire up the right side. Wires should not be tight at all and do not remove the tape at the stakon.
9)Now wires need to be cut (if necessary)and crimped together in the shipped stakon. This stakon looks like a wire nut.
10)Wires should be tucked gently into the styrofoam up and down the right side. Wirenut should be positioned so that water can not collect in it.
11)Replace the panel over the cooling coils.
12)Plug Refigerator back into the wall outlet. Put shelves and light shield back in.
13)My refrigerator is now working without a problem. It's been est two weeks.
Ice maker is also working correctly.
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- Customer:
- Daniel from pasadena, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR32X10156
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The glass was broken in a move
The new shelf went in really easy. It just fit in the alloted slot.
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- Customer:
- Peter from Marietta, GA
- Parts Used:
- WR02X11330, WR17X2891
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Wrench set
Refrigerator water dispenser tube (5/16"OD) broken at the back by valve
Tube was too short so I used the union to attach additional tubing to reach the valve at the lower rear of refrigerator
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- Customer:
- JOSEPH from SURFSIDE, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR02X11330, WR17X2891
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
Cold water for door - leaked on floor
Pulled new tubing to the tank and put a union about 8 inches down from tank to new tubing. Great repair. Parts not readily available locally.
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- Customer:
- Daniel from ZIONSVILLE, PA
- Parts Used:
- WR17X11168
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
water line (from the PS304374 Dual Inlet Water Valve) to the ice maker was craked and leaking
1. Removed the back panel of the fridge to get access to the inlet water valve.
2. Removed black poly water line from valve (pull back on white ring where line is attached and pull the line out)
3. Removed the inlet tube from top-back of fridge (where it goes into the ice make). use putty knife to get under the sticky white gasket beneath the black oval housing and pull the tube out form the back of the fridge.
4. Replace the water line with new part taking care to properly seat the line into the the bottom water valve and pushing the water tube into the hole for the ice maker.
Note: Be sure to take off the protective covering from the white - sticky grommet and push to adhere to metal on fridge.
to be safe - use a bit of clear silicone chaulking round the perimeter of the grommet and push to tighly bond the water inlet tube to the fridge.
The reason for this - is that if you do not get a good bond using the white - sticky gormmet alone - you may have the water tube inside the ice maker freeze up.
Also once the new water line is installed be sure to secure the line to the metal back of the fridge - so the line will not move. some fridges come with metal hose clamps to do this - otherwise use duct tape
2. Removed black poly water line from valve (pull back on white ring where line is attached and pull the line out)
3. Removed the inlet tube from top-back of fridge (where it goes into the ice make). use putty knife to get under the sticky white gasket beneath the black oval housing and pull the tube out form the back of the fridge.
4. Replace the water line with new part taking care to properly seat the line into the the bottom water valve and pushing the water tube into the hole for the ice maker.
Note: Be sure to take off the protective covering from the white - sticky grommet and push to adhere to metal on fridge.
to be safe - use a bit of clear silicone chaulking round the perimeter of the grommet and push to tighly bond the water inlet tube to the fridge.
The reason for this - is that if you do not get a good bond using the white - sticky gormmet alone - you may have the water tube inside the ice maker freeze up.
Also once the new water line is installed be sure to secure the line to the metal back of the fridge - so the line will not move. some fridges come with metal hose clamps to do this - otherwise use duct tape
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- Customer:
- Lloyd from PITTSBURG, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR55X24064
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Refrigerator to warm
Instructions say run capacitor is by motor, but on this frige its in the refrigerator compartment. The capacitors looks different, one square and the other long
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- Customer:
- Dennis from AUSTELL, GA
- Parts Used:
- WR11X10009
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Fresh Food lever, under door, missing roller, make loud sound when closing door.
Removed tension spring, removed old lever, installed spring on lever, inserted lever in hole, re-attached spring to hook under front of refrigerator.
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- Customer:
- Hal from CONROE, TX
- Parts Used:
- WR55X26671
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Freezer Light Board was bad
Had to remove a couple of shelves, then used a Phillips screwdriver to remove the Light diffuser then removed the "light board" assembly and unplugged the light board, plugged in the replacement board, snapped the board back onto its mounting bracket, then snapped the bracket back into its place and then replaced the light diffuser and screwed it back in place. Replaced the 3 shelves and the food which I stored in our chest freezer while I did this repair. I'M DONE !!!! Pretty easy. The switch was OK. Didn't need replaced. Then I plugged in the refrigerator. NOW when we open the freezer door; LET THERE BE LIGHT !!!!!! Sunglasses are needed now!!!
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- Customer:
- Robert from Mahopac, NY
- Parts Used:
- WR62X10055
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Ice maker solenoid failure
several times I had to remove the ice maker door solenoid due to it sticking. I ordered a new one from parts select. Problem solved!!!
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- Customer:
- Frances from Beavercreek, OH
- Parts Used:
- WR23X31507
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Refrigerator light not coming on
Our daughter spilled juice on the refrigerator light button. It started with the light coming on very slowly and then not at all. We popped off the old button with a flat head screwdriver, plugged in the new one. Works perfect. Can't believe how inexpensive and easy the fix was.
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- Customer:
- Amanda from HUMBLE, TX
- Parts Used:
- WR50X10065
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Fridge was hot and freezer was still cool
Watched a parts.com video on how to change defrost thermostat and followed the instructions
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- Customer:
- Ronald from Elkridge, MD
- Parts Used:
- WR17X11653
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The Ice Flapper warped and clogged up the Ice Shoot
I bought a Flapper replacement part from Parts Select. I installed it following their very complete on-line video directions. Their complete and easy to follow directions made my job very easy, and the work was completed without any problems and just as good as if it were done by a professional repair person. I am proud of my work, it couldn't have been done without their video insructions. Also I got delivery of the part within two days of my order. I will alway look for Parts Select any time I need an applicance repaired. Thanks to Parts Select!
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- Customer:
- Mike from Seaford, NY
- Parts Used:
- WR51X10101
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Freezer stayed cold but Fridge got warm every 3 weeks
Unplug the fridge, then:
1) Remove food and shelves from freezer
2) Remove rear panel from inside freezer (panel that covers the evaporator coils)
3)Stare at all the ice covering the coils for 10 seconds!
4) Plug the drain hole in the bottom left side of the freezer (cork or plug made from rolled up paper towel), and place a big towel in the bottom of the freezer compartment to absorb the melting ice
5) Plug in a table fan and leave it blowing into the freezer compartment, at the iced-over coils. Come back in 30 minutes.
6) Ice should be all melted. Place the wet towel in a bucket.
7) Remove the little clip attached to the green wire from the top of the panel., and then remove the two top screws on either side of the panel covering the coils. Take out the panel.
8) Removed the two screws that hold the heater element in place at the bottom of the coils. Pull the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.
9) Connect the wires to the new heater element, and screw it back into place. Put panel back, shelves in, turn fridge on. Fixed
I ordered the defrost heater and replaced that, also ordered the defrost thermostat but the old one looked fine so I did not replace that. Fridge and freezer have been working great, no more icing problems.
Thank You PartSelect!
1) Remove food and shelves from freezer
2) Remove rear panel from inside freezer (panel that covers the evaporator coils)
3)Stare at all the ice covering the coils for 10 seconds!
4) Plug the drain hole in the bottom left side of the freezer (cork or plug made from rolled up paper towel), and place a big towel in the bottom of the freezer compartment to absorb the melting ice
5) Plug in a table fan and leave it blowing into the freezer compartment, at the iced-over coils. Come back in 30 minutes.
6) Ice should be all melted. Place the wet towel in a bucket.
7) Remove the little clip attached to the green wire from the top of the panel., and then remove the two top screws on either side of the panel covering the coils. Take out the panel.
8) Removed the two screws that hold the heater element in place at the bottom of the coils. Pull the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.
9) Connect the wires to the new heater element, and screw it back into place. Put panel back, shelves in, turn fridge on. Fixed
I ordered the defrost heater and replaced that, also ordered the defrost thermostat but the old one looked fine so I did not replace that. Fridge and freezer have been working great, no more icing problems.
Thank You PartSelect!
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