GSS23GYPBCFS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

removed 2 - 1/4" screws and 2 phillip screws to take off the evap cover, then 2 phillip srews to take out the defrost heater assembly, replaced and put everything back together. no problem.
I GOT THE PART SO FAST THAT I WAS SURPRISED TO SEE IT THERE!

Used a putty knife it pry off old switch, unplugged old switch from wire harness, replaced new 1 in, snapped back in place. Took about 2 minutes.

Very easy novice could do

Simply took the old drawer out, and slid the new one in. Took 30 seconds, and voila! All fixed.

YOU SENT THE WRONG PART AFTER I SPECIFICALLY DESCRIBED IT AND SAID, NOT THE SMALL PART FOR THE BOTTOM, THE LARGE ONE FOR THE MIDFLE. THEN YOU MADE ME PAY DELIVERY CHARGES TO SEND IT BACK.

Very easy repair, 3 screws to remove motor assembly and 3 screws/1 nut to remove motor from housing. Reverse order to replace. VERY EASY repair!

Removed broken switch with plastic scraper (press tension latch on bottom), moved two wire terminals to the new switch and pressed the new switch into the hole.

1. Emptied the crisper pan,
2. Removed it from the refrigerator,
3. Flipped it upside down,
4. Removed the old one by pulling it off,
5. Replaced it with the new OEM part. and
6. Reversed the process.

Pulled the broken part out, cleaned under the pan, then slid the new pan into the guides. Quickest repair this grandma has ever done.

Simply take off the back panel. Remove the old run capacitor which is attached to the compressor by a white part. It pulls right off. You will have to unplug two wires. I took a pic to ensure I plugged the wires back up the correct way. Then I attached the new capacitor to the white part and put on the sleeve that was included, plugged it back into the compressor and zip tied the excess part of the sleeve. Once done plug fridge back up (always unplug electric devices when doing maintenance) to check before replacing back panel. It may take a few minutes before it kicks on.

The door stop is held by 2 TORX screws and can be removed in place without raising the refrigerator. The only tricky part is that you only have about 2 inches of clearance so it is hard to locate/see the screw heads. I used a small mirror to help me align the tool with the screw. If you have a small ratchet with a TORX socket it will make your installation go much faster. Each turn of the tool required me to remove and reinsert the tool. This is what takes up so much time.

Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.

after replacing the door seal, I couldn't get the new seal to close and stay closed, so I replaced the closing arm and spring. The door will close now but not tightly and it's loosing cold air. So I made and patented a wooden block to put behind the freezer door handle and the refrigerator door handle to keep the doors closed. Available in black, white and natural tan. (just kidding about the patented part, but not the block)

Needed to remove and replace the door stop. It was held on by tow screws that are about 3 inches from the floor. God a hex driver and small ratchet to hold the hex head. unscrewed the old and replaced the new. I did take a picture with my phone and it showed the two screws.

Put the new one in--simple!