TFX25PABGBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I hung the new shield on the two inside pegs that were already there.

Cake walk repair.

Unload the door then close it.
Remove screw holding plastic cover over hinge on top.
Remove 2 bolts attaching the hinge on the door.
Slowly open and lift door off of bottom hinge lay on counter.
Unscrew bolt, insert new cam, tighten bolt ,set back on bottom hinge, center install top hinge, tighten and install cover. tool me 6 minutes.

It was way to ez to install only a couple of minutes that's it

Unplug your refrigerator. Remove the shelves, light bulb shield and light bulb. Remove the two hex head screws to either side of the light bulb. Wiggle out the back panel. Locate the heater assembly hanging from the bottom of the coils secured with two screws. Remove both screws and lower out the heater. Unclip both connectors from either end of the heater. Take the new heater and replace both end clips. It only goes in one way, so you can't mix them up. Using the two screws, attach the new heater exactly like the original. Wiggle the back panel into place and replace the two hex screws. Put the light bulb and shield back in place and put back in the shelves. You are done.

Not really sure of the age of this fridge, as we bought the house 2.5 yrs ago.

I'm one who if it can go wrong, it will, so not realizing how stable the door was from just having the top hinge and the magentic gasket, I declined to prop the door up on blocks the way some guys say the did, and instead removed the top hinge and lifted the whole door off the bottom hinge. I traced the outline of all parts with a felt pen before removing them, figuring I'd need witness marks to help with realignment after the install.
Nut driver might've been an easier choice than the socket set, but the only ones I have a brittle and I've broken the 5/16"...
All parts came out/off easily. The new bottom hinge and the old top hinge (both on the fridge side) practically aligned itself right on my marks, and the new cam (door side) just needed to be held while the screws were tightened. I used the extensioni rod off the ratchet to drive the screws most of the way (making a nutdriver out of it).
Parts were exactly as advertised, although there was a note in the package that stressed the need to replace both parts at the same time due to material differences in the original and replacement parts. Since the cam is sold separately without the hinge, it would be good for the website to reflect that before the purchase is made. Also, even though it was only the cam on the hinge and not the whole hinge that needed to be replaced, I could've bought hte two cams separately and drilled out the rivet as another person had done, but for the $5 difference in cost, why bother?
Door now closes itself as designed, albeit slower than the freezer side, but the Wife says it always did that.
Also interesting that when first assembled, the door DIDN'T close itself at first... not sure it it needed to wear a litle, or if it just needed the added weight of having items back in the door shelves.
Love the great website... just typed in the model number and the parts I needed, complete with drawings to make sure, were right there. Great UI.

I started by replacing the defrost thermostat. I was wishfully thinking that would solve the problem, and I knew I would have to do it anyway (you have to remove it to test it, so, for nine bucks . . .). That was the hardest part of the job, because I am wide and the freezer is narrow. (PartSelect has a good instructional video.) A good wire stripping tool is worth the investment. My mistake (laziness) was not testing the defrost heater when I had the chance. It was shot, too. I quickly ascertained that it needed replacing (frost on the rear of the freezer; the original problem) and so I ordered one. The first one I got was defective. PartSelect over-nighted me a second one for no additional shipping. Installed it as soon as it arrived, a couple of weeks ago (it attaches very simply at the bottom of the rear of the freezer; two screws and plug-in wires). No problems since. Total cost, about $60 plus shipping. I can't even get a refrigerator repair guy to visit for less than that.

diagnoises said 49% thermostat replace preety easy did not fix so i took out defrost rube ran continuity test with showed bad unit ordered one here jn 2 days put in works great easy for me

Remove the back cover inside the freezer, with a hair dryer, defrost the frosts built up over the fringes, only the 4 sides of the back panel needs to be defrost so that I can get access to the heater and Thermostat. The heater is a tube like and if it looks black, it is bad, the new one is filled with aluminum coils inside the tube that you can see. Replaced the heater and everything worked. It has been fine for a week now.

Emptied the refrigerator door so it was easier to take off. Used a screwdriver to remove the screw on the top hinge. Lifted door off bottom hinge. Laid the door down so I could take the bottom hinge off. Removed worn out parts and placed the new one on. Slipped door back on hinge,made sure it would close properly and was lined up with freeze door. Put top hinge back in place. Done!! Now door finally shuts on its own again!!! EASY!!!

Pulled the two wires out from the access hole in the lower part of the refrigerator. Put them in the spade connectors on the new switch, and pushed the switch into place.

remove plastic top hinge cover then twoscrews holding door with door closed it rested against freezer door then lefted off door put on flat surface remove tow screws at bottom of door installed new cam

checked web site for similar problems and said it was either the defrost heater or timer took my chances and went with the heater Its been 2 days and so far it seems to be working correctly if it happens again will change the timer Thank you for your help with this product couldn't be happier didn't have to have a repair man come would have been hundreds I am not a handy person but your site made it so easy

Turned refrigerator off. Removed food from right hand (refig.) door. Closed door. Removed upper hinge cover with a standard Phillips screwdriver and then removed upper hinge by removing two 5/16" bolts using nutdriver. Lifted door up to clear the bottom hinge-post and set it on the table. Removed the kick pan at the bottom of the refrigerator and then removed the bottom hinge-post which was attached with two more 5/16" bolts. Installed new lower hinge post and rubbed a small amount of mineral oil on the closing cam (which is riveted to the hinge-post). Removed the old upper closing cam from the door (5/16" bolts) while it as lying horizontal on the table and installed new cam lubricated with a small amount of mineral oil. dropped the door in place, replaced upper hinge and cover. Replaced kick pan. Done.

I watched the video on your web site first.Then I proceeded to do the repair exactly as the video showed. Very easy!!!!!

Removed the upper hinge assembly. Removed the door. Removed the kick plate. Removed the old hinge assembly and installed the new one.Replaced the other broken cam on the door bottom. Then,reinstalled door to fridge and reinstalled the top hinge. PS/cleaned and lubed both upper and lower hinges.