Models > TFX25PABGBB

TFX25PABGBB General Electric Refrigerator

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Diagrams for TFX25PABGBB

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Comes with both cam risers. This hinge kit is suitable for the bottom of either the freezer door or the refrigerator door of some refrigerators.
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If you are experiencing temperature issues with your refrigerator, there may be an issue with the defrost heater. If this part has failed, it can cause your fridge and freezer to get too warm. It can ...
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This grommet is found on both the front and back of the fan motor assembly for the condenser and the evaporator in your fridge. It is used to provide a buffer between the fan motor and the mounting br...
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This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges,...
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The light switch in your refrigerator is used to turn the light on and off when the fridge door opens or closes. This is considered a closed switch, which means that when the fridge door depresses the...
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This part helps with the closing of the door and helps keep it in position.
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This part is approx. 14 3 /4" L x 13 1/4" W. Sold individually.
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$15.26
This screw is sold individually.
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This screw is sold individually. Size 8 -18 ab fltr 5/8.
No Longer Available
$15.26
Size: 10-32 GXTT FLP .595 Sold individually.
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Sold individually.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for TFX25PABGBB

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Light not working
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Fridge too warm
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Door won’t open or close
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Noisy
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Freezer not defrosting
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Freezer section too warm
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Frost buildup
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Door Sweating
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Clicking sound
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Freezer too cold
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Too warm
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Fridge runs too long
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Fridge too cold
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
Parts Used:
WR23X37285
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Sticking Light Switch
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
121 of 173 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Gregory from Zephyrhills, FL
Parts Used:
WR13X10020
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Socket set
My wife said, "the refrigerator door won't close".
Our refrigerator is a double door unit with ice and water in the left door. The right door was the one with the problem. It was 5:15 AM when the problem occured. I could see that the door was out of alighnment and had dropped down - preventing it from closing. I lifted the door and closed it. I wrote down the model number and found a detailed drawing of the appliance on the web site "partselect.com". When the hing earrived I compared it to the broken one. I removed all the food stored on the door, put several pieces of wood under the door to shim it to the same height as the adjacent door. I then removed two bolts from the refrigerator with a 1/4" socket set. I put the shim from the old hing aside for later. I removed two bolts from the door with the same socket -Note a metal tab had to be bent silghtly so the wrench could go on the head of the bolt- I removed the plastic cam and made note of its orientation and that of the shim above it on the door. I put the shim and new cam in place on the door and installed the 2 bolts. I inserted the pin of the new hing into the hole in the cam (I had just mounted) on the door. I put the shim (the one put aside earlyer) behind the hing and replaced the two bolts. I held the shim and hing up against the door as I tightened the two bolts. When I was satisfied that the bolts were tight I removed the wooden blocks that were holding the door up so the door was supported by the new bottom hing assembly. The door now opperates perfectly and the refrigerator was not taken out of service for the repair. Total time including cleanup was a little over 15 minutes.
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Customer:
Eddie from Freeport, NY
Parts Used:
WR51X10055
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Not cold & saw ice accumulated on freezer back panel
-Disconnect the power supply wire& turn temp control inside refrigerator to 0!
-15 mins spent on remove (5 screws) the back panel inside freezer, melt ice then replace the heater (2 screws) on the bottom! Black wire on left & pink wire on the right! Make sure both end has good connection to the heater!

-30 mins to drain al l water from the bottom (back side) of the refrigerator, suck & clean all dust & dirt from the front & back side!

-Set both temp control knots to 5 & put back all the food!

-If no ice build up on the panel after 10 days & then the repair is good!
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