JVM1630SPC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

-Pulled refrigerator out to access back.
-Removed compressed paperboard cover.
-Found compressor running by the feel.
-Removed metal cover to control board.
-Found ~5V coming from control board to inverter (variable frequency drive) board assembly attached to compressor.
-Found ~120 going to inverter board.
-Removed inverter board assembly from compressor.
-Found equal resistance (~7 ohms for mine) at all three contacts of inverter (DC) compressor.
-Ordered inverter assembly, plus one extra and control board for possible future use so not to loose all my food again; I might order a compressor so I have it before price goes up.
-Installed inverter when arrived.
-Used air compressor to blow out accumulated dust on condenser coil.
-Closed up and cleaned up (C^2).
-Fridge cooled and back to proper temperature the next day.

I asked two strong male neighbors to do the work and told them how to do it. Follow the simple directions on the box. You can Google it, but it will tell you the same directions.

Remove the screws from the two door pivot covers. Remove the covers and set aside. Remove the screws from the control board; disconnect the electrical connections; remove the door light switch, install door light switch then reinstall everything.

Removed that to screws for that top first and door shake top little to that front and I took two screws on that top each side and removed that front and lint trap and install the new

Unplugged ref.,turnned water off at wall and drained, removed back cover on lower part of ref. then removed screw holding water valve,unplugged both wires from unit,pulled the 3 water lines off,1 I had to cut, would not release,got new water valve,push 3 water lines in place,attached the 2 wires in place and screwed unit back on ref.and replaced back cover on ref. Then I got a hair dryer and thawed all ice that had built up behind and under ice maker in freezer,cleaned that mess up,turned water back on plugged in ref. All good ,repaired problem,old water valve was bad.

The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.

Originally I thought that the Start switch was the issue, and ordered one. After taking the machine apart and running some tests, the issue was clearly not this switch, but a different switch that cuts power when the belt tension is no longer being applied to the idler pulley spring. I fixed this by bypassing this switch, which in my opinion, is error prone and serves no purpose. The switch can be accessed by removing the control panel, then top cover, then front cover, then drum. The bogus switch is screwed to the bottom left, near the motor. The idler pulley spring rests against it. Just disconnect the switch wires, then clip, strip and crimp then together to bypass the switch, and voila! Now if the belt breaks or comes off the pulley, the motor will continue to run, but you wont hear the wet clothes flopping around, so that will be the indication that you have a belt problem. Hope that helps!

After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.

The problem was both the valve and a frozen slug of water in the supply line located inside the door. After replacing the valve, I turned the freezer to a setting of 1 and in about 30 hours, water flowed out the tap.

Found that it had power but nothing worked there was a slight buzzing from the control board. Installed a new board and it was up and running in a few minutes.

Shut water behind the refrigerator, unplugged the unit. Unscrewed the back tin panel and simply unscrewed the brace scew for the Double Outlet Water Valve. Disconnected the hoss - inspected the hosed for wear. Next detached the hoses and power source to the unit... reconnected both hoses & power source, plug the refrigator back in and inspected for any water leaks. Simple!

Of course being a women to say I repair my refrigirator is very self gratifying specially when share with other womens like me divorce,having to do on their own, great site, very simple explain on the video with words I could understand, no surprices right to the penny. I save a lot of money, thank you so much, i recomend the site to anybody.

Just fallow video shows that it 123 !

I followed the very easy YouTube video and got the three tools I needed before beginning. I started with removing the parts of the dryer and that was extremely simple by following the steps in the video. Took the door off last, located the parts that need replaced that didn't require any tools at all. Then put all the parts of the dryer back on in the order I removed them. The entire process was about 25 minutes but I would say I spent more time really cleaning the dryer and lint build up than actually doing the repair. Video was super thorough and easy to follow, I've never attempted any kind of repair of an appliance and I'm extremely happy that I had the video and the parts that were recommended to fix my problem, were spot on. Saved me hundreds of dollars and time. Thank you so much!

remove the broken one and replace it with the new one