GNR22DGEBRWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

a) remove front panel by depressing the 2 clips at the top in line with the lid b) remove the lid switch and 2 screws holding top on and remove top by tilting up SLIGHTLY and sliding to left. c) Remove agitator and by pulling straight up on it and remove adapter underneath d)remove 4 bolts holding 4 rubber straps to top of tub assembly, readily visible when top is removed. e) unplug motor wiring and disconnect pump and bleach hoses from tub f)while lifting up on tub, push down on each of the 4 suspension rods and disconnect them at bottom of tub ( this is the most difficult part, and to make it easier disconnect the rear rods first) g) tilt tub forward and remove tub assembly h) NOW, for the big nut that holds the spin basket in-- #1, it is LEFT HAND THREAD, so you will turn it to the right to remove it. #2, it is VERY TIGHT and requires a 1&11/16" spanner wrench (which I did not have) for removal. Instead, I used a 1&11/16 socket, an extension and an air impact wrench to remove and replace the nut. Assembly is reverse of removal and remember, that nut is ALUMINUM so be careful with that impact wrench when tightening it back up!I replaced the nut and split ring and cleaned the whole area thoroughly, and it greatly reduced the noise in spin mode. I did not replace the metal housing on the bottom of the spin basket, because it was $50 bucks. this probably would have eliminated all the noise, but my repair only cost $19 in parts, including shipping ,and the parts arrived in 1 day.

Nightmare!!! The Striker latch did not pop out with a screwdriver as it was supposed to. The whole dishwasher needs to be disconnected and pulled out, then front door removed and totally disassembled to remove the screw to replace the striker latch. lots of work to replace a striker latch. Bad design!

My son did the repair, I ordered both latch and striker, only needed the latch...only took him a few minutes to remove the old and install the new and works just fine

Turned off pier at breaker. Removed dishwasher from under counter after disconnecting water line from dishwasher and drain tube from under sink. You might get a little residual water but not much. Removed old flood switch took about 2 minutes. Replaced with new flood switch. Then tilted dishwasher back to get to plastic nuts that hold down heating element. Set unit back down and removed old heating element then replace it with new one. Replace plastic nuts that hold element. Exact parts makes job easy. Them put water hose back on an put washer back in place hooked drain hose back up. Turned water and power back on. Tested unit worked perfectly. Hardest part of job was putting the dishwasher back into counter and getting the Instalation back on top.
Parts replacement time was about 10 minutes.
Disconnecting and reconnecting and replacing dishwasher 40 minutes. But I wouldn’t pay anyone to do this because it’s really not difficult.

Repair was straightforward. You can change water inlet on this model from underneath in bottom from, although it is a little tight

Process of elimination and a visit to my local repair store told me it was wise to try the tub gasket, and according to partselect.com, it solved the problem a majority of the time. My local repair dealer agreed: Try it. They agreed because for them to replace a lower door gasket AND the $10 tub gasket... if they came out, the service call and parts would equal half the cost to replace the whole dishwasher. So I bought a tub gasket from partselect.com and replaced the old one. It worked, it was easy, so if your same make & model is leaking? Try it first. That's my advice.

Unplugged power.
Shut off water supply.
Remove the kick panel.
Unscrewed dishwasher from under cabinet and side screws. lower feet to reduce tension.
As you slide the dishwasher out, be sure all lines (Drain, water supply, electric are free to move with dishwasher.
I was able to hold the dishwasher at an angle to easily get to the valve. After removing the the valve, i screwed the new valve back into place. I removed the Line between the valve and Dishwasher. Putting the line on the new valve. I removed the water supply line from the old valve and installed it on the new valve.
Placed the dishwater back in place and screed it back in. I ran the cycles. everything works!
I replace the kickpaner a couple of hours later. Check to make sure there were now leaks.

1. Turned off circuit breaker
2. Pulled out dishwasher
3. Disconnected switch and popped out switch
3. Popped in new switch and connected
4. Pushed dishwasher back into place
5. Turned on circuit breaker
6. Turned on dishwasher and it worked

I followed partselect repair videos to see how to pop off the front panel and also remove the top control panel. Lay the control panel on top of the washer and leave everything connected. With power disconnected I first checked the fill tube and fill sensor by pulling the rubber tube off the bottom of the drum and blowing in the tube - you can hear the sensor click on and off. It requires more pressure if you set the water level switch to a larger load. This behavior told me the tube and sensor were working but this must be an airtight system to be reliable. To test for slow air leaks I blew in the tube to cause the switch to click, then clamped the rubber tube shut with a C-clamp. I left it overnight and no leaks - the switch was still activated in the morning, as I could hear it click when I released the C-clamp. I then suspected the fill valve, so I plugged in the power cord, set the washer for a load and started it. The water started filling and I unplugged the power cord, which should cause the fill valve to shut off immediately. It did not - it kept on filling with water, but in this case eventually shut off after 60-90 seconds. Since it did not shut off immediately when power was removed I knew the fill valve was sticking. I ordered the fill valve from partselect and received it in a couple days. Replacement was easy - shut off water, remove the hoses, and then 3 screws and two electrical connectors to swap out the valve. Then 3 screws to put the control panel back on and snap the front panel back in place. Done. Since replacing the fill valve the washer has been working perfectly.

Followed your video instructions and removed agitator.Used 7/16 3/8 in socket wrench to remove bolt in the agitator coupling and replaced coupling. Put new bolt in and tightened. Installed Agitator.Works Great.

R&R Leaking/Damaged Hose and replaced it with the new one. One thing to be aware of is that after removing screws from the discharge hose upon removing the damaged one there was some water that did not expel from the unit so there was about a cup of water that came out. After removing the leaking hose you will need to remove the retaining plastic piece so that it can be placed on the replacement hose. Or if you ordered one put it on the hose so that it can retain the end of the hose in the washer. The anti-siphon clip is located about half way up the back of the washer it simply clips in place.

First, remove the old water pump by disconnecting the respective hose, then wipe the area where the pump was, and proceeded to connect the new water pump, of course I did all this with the machine disconnected from the power electric, then proceeded to connect the inlet hoses of hot water and cold water, electricity connected to the machine and did a test with clothes in the washing machine. and now everything is going well, thanks for your valuable help.
sincerely, a satisfied customer

Pretty much the entire machine has to come apart to replace a transmission. The thing to know that no one mentioned is that the hub nut is reverse threaded - that means righty loosey.
Even if I had known, I tried it both ways and I doubt I could have gotten it off without the chisel as the others also had to do. Split ring was also frozen in place by hard water and soap scum so had to break that cheesey piece of aluminum off also. If you are taking apart your washer, I advise ordering these 2 parts so you will have them after you destroy the old ones trying to get to the part you need to fix.

Thanks to parts select for the exploded diagram!

First I located the trouble. I noticed that it was water leaking and figured it had to be a hose. I took the front panel off of the washer and after noticing that the drain hose had a slight hole in it, realized that I could fix it and save myself a repair call. I undid the two hose clamps and removed the hose. I went to a local repair shop that could not guarantee the right part. I went online and found Parts Select.com. I entered minimal information and the picture of the item that I was looking for, the Drain Inlet Hose, was staring at me! Within 3 business days and less than 20 dollars spent, I repaired my washing machine. The total time spent to repair after I received the hose took about 10 minutes. I will definitely use parts select .com and recommend to all my friends and family. Thank you.

Removed the back of the machine and then flipped the machine on the side and loosened the motor to get the old belt off. A piece came out so we had to check the schematics online to figure out where it went. We believe it was the out-of-balance cut off switch. So to fix that we unplugged the motor assembly and took it out. I also had to fish the spring out of the vacuum, no small task. The worst part was that the belt was so deteriorated that it was super greasy and the carpet ended up a mess. We replaced the motor and belt and now it actually gets the water out of the clothes. Simply Green cleaner was used for the rug and after some strong elbow grease it was cleaned. If not for the mess and the other part and the vacuum snafu, I would have labeled this as easy.