PSE25KYHBHFS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

We couldn't get the other connector loose from one end of the tubing so he said just cut it and so we did and attached the connector. I now have water again in my fridge and took the sticky note down "don't use the water" as it had leaked for a year...... Thanks!

Plastic water line gets brittle from compersor heat over time and eventually brakes. I tried to fix with 5/16 line from a locel hardware store but outter diameter was slightly smaller so connection to valve leaked. This OEM part fit perfect. I cut the line beyond the brake and connected it with the tube union part, Easy fix. Everything works fine with no leaks

just unscrewed the 3 screws, attached the rounded plug that came with the unit and screwed back only 2 screws. ice magic in about a couple of hours

Removed the front panel on the door that has the ice maker controls. Removed the screws and parts. Reassembled the parts and it works better than new. Ice door closes firmly and holds tight.

The defrost heater failed. The coils frosted completely over so no airflow to the fridge. Step 1. Empty the freezer. Ice maker and top shelf can stay. Remove power, pull plug or open breaker. Step 2. Remove shelves and bottom food drawer. Step 3. Remove bottom food drawer rails. 2 phillips screws on each side. Step 4. Remove back panel, 2 screws at the top. Work panel out. Note there may be a green ground wire hook on it at the top. This will expose the heater and the cooling coils. The heater is at the bottom of the cooling coils and is the width of the coils. Step 5. There will be 2 wires, one on each end, and two phillips screws holding it in. Wires pull straight out. Note which way the heater is installed and remove the 2 screws. Step 6. Assemble in reverse order. Be very careful with the heater. It is in a glass tube and is very easy to break.

I removed the screws for the inner door and removed inner lining. Then took out the ice dispenser in the door. Took off control panel on the front of the ice panel. Removed the rusted parts and put in new parts. Put all parts back the way it came apart. In retrospect.... I could have possibly replaced the parts from the front panel but by taking apart the door...I had to thaw out the inner panel and insulation with in the door.

Very easy to install. Simply follow the hoses to the end. One ends under the freezer door in front. The other requires you to take the back panel off the fridge - then its right there. There is a blue valve where it connects. Pull back on the white ring at the top of the blue valve and the old tube will release. Then you can just pull the old water tank out and thread the new tubes through. Connect the same way and you disconnected.

removed ice tray, removed drive unit. removed solenoid and replaced, screwed on auger drive. reinstalled drive assembly. replaced ice tray. job done.

My husband did the repair, and even though our refrigerator is roughly 20+ years old, he was able to adapt it to work in all the right spots and we now have ice cubes! I'm very happy we did not have to spend $2000 on a comparable refrigerator.

First I replaced the double valve because the ice maker was not filling with water. It still did not work. Then I replaced the ice maker itself. This worked and was relatively easy to replace. I had to use the water fill "slide" from the old ice maker. The new one was too narrow and it leaked water into the freezer.

Two tabs hold the switch in place. I used a plastic wedge to remove the switch. Removed and replaced the two connectors held in by friction. Painless.

Followed your instructions and you made it simple.Thanks a million.

shut off water supply to unit, pull the unit out,unplug, unscrew lower back cover, locate valve relay unit (bottom left, black and clear hose coming out of it) undo the quick connect for the clear water hose on the right (black one is for ice).

front of the unit, bottom left, locate the other hose (longer one) running to the freezer door from under the unit, undo quick connect.

Inside unit, remove middle drawers, careful with the glass panels as these just lay on top and are not fixed.

undo the 3 screws for the old tank, pull it out, snake the hoses thru the grommet on the bottom, reverse process...all set!

Just pop the old one out, careful not to lose the wiring inside the ref wall & popped the new one in.

My GE refrigerator emitted high pitch noise a short while ago. I tried different dampening methods that helped but not eliminating the problem. I finally replaced the fan, motor, and associated parts and solved the problem. The total cost was about $50.