TFT22JADAAA General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Emptied the refrigerator door so it was easier to take off. Used a screwdriver to remove the screw on the top hinge. Lifted door off bottom hinge. Laid the door down so I could take the bottom hinge off. Removed worn out parts and placed the new one on. Slipped door back on hinge,made sure it would close properly and was lined up with freeze door. Put top hinge back in place. Done!! Now door finally shuts on its own again!!! EASY!!!

remove plastic top hinge cover then twoscrews holding door with door closed it rested against freezer door then lefted off door put on flat surface remove tow screws at bottom of door installed new cam

First I removed rear panel in freezer to expose defrost heater. I used a hair dryer to melt ice. Removed 2 screws to remove defrost heater and replaced it with new one.

I called the company with which I had a service contract. When the repair guy arrived he told me it would be 4 days before he could get the part and install it. It actually took 8 days from the day I made the service call. Needless to say I was torqued!

Found the part online in about 10 minutes. Had it overnighted.

1. Unplugged the refridgerator. The evaporator panel was covered with frost.
2. Removed the panel covering the evaporator coils with a nut driver located in the freezer compartment of a "side by side."
3. Unplugged the two leads to the harness and removed the ground clip.
4. Unscrewed the two mounting screws.
5. Rerouted the leads and plugged them into the new harness. The connectors are located on the same end on the new harness. It now has two elements. Replaced the ground clip.
6. Re-mounted the harness with the two screws that I removed from the old harness.
7. Replaced the panel.
8. Plugged the refridgerator in.
Voila!

Service, price and delivery time was great.

After unplugging the power, I removed the back wall panel in the freezer by removing the two phillips screws at the top and the two small bolts at the bottom. With the panel off I could now see nothing but ice, so after about 30 minutes of thawing I was able to remove the heater core from the bottom of the unit, it was held on by two phillips screws and had two wires plugged into it. I followed the instructions in the package to reroute the left side wire to the right side. There was plenty of wire to do this. I then plugged the wires into the new unit and mounted it back with the two screws. The new unit was a dual element but fit just fine. I then reinstalled the back panel and plugged the power back in. Very simply process for anyone. Its been working great since.
I will use PartSelect.com again in the future!

The refrigerator door would now close and notice broken plastic on the floor. It is a 1990 or so GE fridge. To repair - ordered the Cam Riser (the plastic piece that broke and the matching lower door bracket.

Took off the lower hinge with a socket wrench. removed the door. Replace the old Cam Riser with the new one. Slid the door onto the upper guide then fastened the new hinge with the socket wrench.

Easy job .. around 20 minutes.

I could see a broken part but couldn't tell exactly how it was oriented on the hinge. I bought just the cam riser but then thought I needed the hinge kit based on what I read on this site. Then I saw better pictures of the hinge kit on another site & realized there are 2 cam risers that meet. The one riveted to the hinge was fine (in my case) - I only needed the upper one...a very inexpensive repair. Do NOT remove the door for this repair. Slide the door up a bit while closed and use a pint-sized paint can to prop it up. Make the repair and remove the can...done.

removed shelfs and brackets.. removed back panel in freezer.. removed rear cover inside of freezer... removed heater... Installed the new heater and re-assembled...

1.Unplug frig & empty
2. Remove ground clip & back wall, defrost fully, blow-dry if impatient like me!
3. Unscrew heater element & unplug wires
4. Plug wires in as directed
5. Reinstall heater, ground clip & back wall. Plug in frig! Piece of cake!!
6. Did not need to use wire extension, was able to route the wire to fit.

Lifted the door while closed into position even with freezer door. Then put srap pieces of wood under door to hold into place while I removed the old hinge assembly and replaced with the new one. The door works good now. Make sure you replace both peices as they will both be worn.

Removed all items from the door shelfs.
With the door open, picked up the door and slid it upward as far as it would go. Asked wife to place a stack of books under the door to keep it at the proper height. Removed the lower hinge pin assy. remved the door stop. Installed new componets and reinstalled the door stop. The door was now level with the freezer door.

I had to remove the top hinge of the door and shut off the water supply to the automatic ice maker. I then unhooked the water line and pulled it through the guide as I took the door off. Once the door was off, I removed one bolt with the nut driver and replaced the cam. I reversed the above actions and replaced the door. It is very important to adjust the door so the seal fits tightly and evenly all round the door. It was a relatively simple procedure that went very smoothly.

I went on the internet to help diagnose the problem. The sysmptoms indicated the defroster heater. I followed the directions that came with the replacement part.

I disconnected the power.

I removed all the shelves, removed two screws from the back panel, removed the ground wire, removed the panel, removed two screws from the heater at the bottom of the coils and diconnected the two wires from the heater.

I rerouted the wire from the left side to the right side, connected both wires to the new heater, installed the heater with the two screws, inserted the back panel and attached it with two screws and the ground wire, installed all the shelves, connected the power and made sure the controls for refrigerator and freezer were set at five.

Followed other messages to complete fix. Simple overall.

Please note that if you buy the hinge assembly, you get spacer parts that mate. If you don't you have to hack-saw the rivot off the old hinge assembly to do your repair. Hinge assembly cost more but less work.

Defrosted entire freezer coil with two of wife's hair dryers at the same time (about 30 minutes). Replacement of defrost heater was another 30 minutes to complete the reaplcement with the kit supplied and close up the inside rear panel. Word of caution is the clean-up outside the refridgerator took longer (45-60 minutes more) to clean under the fridge with vacuum and soak up water from the melted ice. Next time will devise a way to capture the water from melted ice and save on clean up time. Vacuuming was just a bonus during clean-up under the fridge. Kit supplied worked well despite water clean up. By the way this has happened before twice and the fix is always the same: new "defrost heater" Although this time I ordered a double coil unit to replace the single coil unit. According to website, dual coil provides better defrost cycle. My thoughts are also if one coil goes out again, I can convert the dual coil to work as a single in an emergency!