TFT22JADAAA General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Well, first I googled the problem and the model and found my way pretty quick to you guys. I sent a note to Tom P., who confirmed that I was looking at the right things. Then I offloaded everything from the freezer and fridge to the RV fridge and chest freezer, unplugged it and used my hair dryer to melt the ice on back plate so I could remove it.

I removed the two small screws at the top of the back, below the icemaker and light bulb, and slid the back cover up and out. Since my coils were pretty heavily iced, it took about half an hour to melt enough that I could get the defrost heater out and check it for continuity, which it failed.

The replacement design is slightly different (2 heater coils vs 1 and connectors on one end), but functionally the same. When putting the new one in, you need to re-run the blue wire down the same side as the pink wire because the connectors are on one end. Mine was long enough to work, but they include a splice kit in case yours isn't.

It took me longer to get the cover back on than to replace the heater assembly! Everything is back to normal, had ice cubes within a couple of hours...
Thanks for your help!

I had this problem before and I knew it was related to the heater located in the freezer section. With the help of the drawings in the parts selct webpage I was able to identify the part I needed within 5 minutes. I ordered the part abd in 3 days I had it delivered.
I followed the instructions that came with the part step by step and I got my refrigerator up mand running in about 45 minutes.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires..

Had some knowledge of freezers and located Parts Select Web Site. Excellent advice and illustrations. Took four days to determine fault, locate part, order, receive and repair. Price was very reasonable and response was more than acceptable.

Good Job Parts Select.

1. Found Compressor and coils obstructed by
heavy dust: Cleaned
Re: No change

2. Check defrost timer for recycle. Good

3. Defrost freezer and initialize
Re:No Change

4. Check heater by setting timer for defrost:
Re: Not heating. Disassembled assembly and
found heater burned with open coil.

Located parts on web site exactly as depicted, Ordered part and Parts select did all the rest very responsively. Recieved the part in just over two business days. Fridge has been operating fine since.

Better than any service man.

After reading about what others had done on PartSelect, I decided to order the defrost heater and bracket assembly. When the parts arrived (very prompt) I removed the back panel of the freezer. Ice was covering the coils, so I took a hair dryer and melted the ice. Then I removed the defrost heater and replaced it with the new one. Very easy; only a couple of screws on the back wall to remove and one on the heater itself. Anyone can do it. I had called a repair service, and they wanted $75 just for the service call. I probably saved at least $100 by doing the job myself.

Very easy. Just removed the two screws holding heater element in place. I disconected the wires on both ends then re-attached the two wires to the replacement heater and put both screws back on and WHALA! Done!

I found the frig not cooling as good as it used to and did some research on the net and found some common failures. I started with the easiest test and ohmed out the defrost heater and also noticed it had blackened spots on both ends of element. The ohm reading confirmed it to be open. Replacement was easy for a "diesel" mechanic so basically anybody that can follow directions should be able to replace thiers as well.

I aligned the back of the controller with the slot in the icebox and it popped right back on. No more frozen vegetables.

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

First I removed the freezer compartment backplate by unscrewing three screws. Then I unscrewed the 2 screws holding the heater element in place. While holding it in one hand I pulled the wires off, one on each end of the element. Then replaced it with new part and put it all back together. Piece of cake.

I unloaded the door and took the cover off at the top of the upper hinge (1 phillips screw) I then unbolted the upper hinge (2-28mm bolts) and lifted the door off. I was surprised how light it was. I laid the door down and installed the new cam riser on the door. I then unbolted the lower hinge (2-28mm bolts)and installed the new hinge.
I lubed the 2 hinges with vaseline and put the door back on the lower hinge. I then reinstalled the upper hinge and cover. It took about 15 minutes, and a lot of that was cleaning up. Oh yes, to get at the lower hinge you have to pull off the lower grate that covers the coils. It just snaps off and on. It was a very easy job.

Removed shelves and storage drawer from freezer.

Removed the two screws that mount the rear panel cover at the back of the freezer
compartment. Disconnected the grounding clip on the cover exposing the evaporator coils and the defrosting heater at the bottom.

Removed the remaining ice chunks on the coils.

Removed the two screws mounting the single element defroster. Disconnected the wires on each end of the defroster.

The replacement defroster was a two element heater and the instructions clearly showed how to re-route the single wire from the left side to the right side. The harness kit included a short piece of wire and a crimp connector to ensure the length would be sufficient to connect the new heater.

The only item missing in the kit was the RTV required to water proof the wire connection. A quick run to the hardware store took care of that.

Reassembled in reverse order, plugged the refrigerator back in and by the next day temperatures were normal in both the freezer and refrigerator compartment.

A service repairman had quoted $60.00 for the defrost heater plus $250.00 for installation. Using parts from PartSelect the total cost was $44.00 including shipping and about 30 minutes of my time. I'll take the savings anyday.

Thanks for the easy to read instructions and multiple status email notes of the order.

I had done this repair almost exactly 2 years ago. I also read in this forum about a guy who said he had to do it every 2 years... bad part design.

However, GE has replaced the original single element with a dual element, and that is what PartSelect sent me. I had to splice one wire, but the instructions were clear and it went like a breeze. Oh, and the part arrived less than 3 days after I ordered it with standard shipping. Way to go, guys! Thanks!

After reading posts on this website, I determined I needed to replace the defrost heater. Removed heater to take a closer look and after testing with a voltmeter determined it needed replacing. Ordered part online and could not believe how quickly it arrived. Blue wire that travels down the left side of the freezer coils had some damage on the end of the plastic connector so was pleased to find that I was able to splice the extension wire provided in the defrost heater kit onto the blue wire and dispose of the damaged end. It's been about 10 days and I do believe my problem has been solved!

So our food was not staying frozen or cold so as usual i was thinking huge bill. I deceided to take a look for myself not knowing anything about a freezer. After removing all the food I noticed ice on the back part of the fridge so I just started to remove the back panel and as soon as I did that I heard the fan breath a sigh of relief. So I defrosted the block of ice and put it back together.

a few days later same thing. So on to the trusty Internet. I found partselect and helped me discover the problem of a faulty defrost heater ( who would think a heater in a fridge) Anyway I ordered the part and it was at my door in 2 DAYS!!

Thanks to PartSelect for saving me a ton of money and time. Great site! and company!