DSE25JEMKCDS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Using my putty knife, I slid it under the light cover prying upward to remove it. I then unplugged the the light board from the wire and unsnapped from the two prongs. Then reinstalled.

It was very simple! I assessed the situation and gathered my tools for the job. I used a flat head screwdriver, pliers, and electrical tape. I used the flat head screwdriver to release the switch from its location, the pliers to take the electrical terminations apart. I taped the wires individual so that I would not loose them in the door, also not to short them out. I then unpackaged the new switch to install. Pulled the tape off one of the of the terminals while holding the wire, and attached it to the new switchs terminal post. Did the same with the other wire, then snapped the new switch back into place. Immediately had results. I opened and closed the door a few times in amazement that something so annoying such as a light in your fridge could be so easy to fix. Most of all, having a business to rely on to find the part and deliver in a timely fashion. Thank you Partselect.com, you were outstanding!!!

Slip out old one, slide in new tray!

After watching a coupe videos on replacing the augher I decided to replace the bucket and auger, as it came all assembled ready to slide in Piece of cake. It was so easy to find the part needed. Enter the model number and presto the parts break down is on you computer, the delivery took 2 days.

After placing the order I noticed that it was going to the wrong shipping address. A quick phone call problem corrected.

Unplugged the fridge, and opened the freezer. Unscrewed the light panel, small screwdriver. Removed the plastic bracket. Part was frozen and I broke one of the plastic mounts. Do not do this as I am not sure if I will have to live with my cable twist tie kludge or I can get another plastic bracket. Light board is just the PCB. You need to remove the old PCB and install the new one- remember the orientation and the fact that the plastic mount piece has specific sides you can identify by the width of the slots. This is for all the other women like me. Thanks.

This part (plastic tubing) does not show up under my model of refrig...so I had to look thru the various water lines and pick the one that "looked" right. Luckily, this is the exact replacement part and works perfectly. I removed the lower back panel from the fridge, removed the bracket holding the water line connectors and pressed the outer ring of the coupler up until it released the old water line. I pushed in the new line, made sure it was snug with a gentle pull and ran the line under the fridge up to the existing coupler. I removed the old line from the existing coupler under the front left of the freezer door, and pushed in the new line. I did not need to use the new coupler. If my old line would not have been so brittle and cracked in several places, I could have just cut out the leaking portion and popped the new couple in to mend the line back together. Easy job and we can stop buying bottled water at the store now!

I took the advice off of your website about the only thing that will fix
the problem is change the run capacitor. I felt assured that I would
have a working refrigerator freezer after making this change. I was
pretty disheartened when it didn`t solve anything. I was not going to
take the new part back out after the small challenge of putting it in.
The next day I found out how to test the old capacitor and it was still
good. I will just have to eat the $49. I did learn not to take advice from
a website even if it seems like a sure thing

Raised side of fridge enough to get 1/4" ratchet with 1/4" socket under roller wheel assy. Removed three hex-head screws to separate damaged wheel assy from fridge frame. From panel below fridge compartment, backed-out stripped leveling screw. Mounted new roller assy and then threaded in new leveling screw from front. Lowered fridge and adjusted leveling screw for proper height. Suggest putting a 2x4 under fridge for safety when hands are under unit.

Tube was too short so I used the union to attach additional tubing to reach the valve at the lower rear of refrigerator

The new shelf went in really easy. It just fit in the alloted slot.

I removed the old shelf and installed the new one!

Your instructions were "spot on"! Pried out broken switch with screwdriver-reinstalled new switch. Very easy! Ordered on line on a Wednesday new part arrived on following Saturday-Great service and will definately use again. Highly recommend PartSelect!

Ordered the icemaker replacement. unplugged the unit, followed the simple instructions and got it done in less than 30 minutes. It did take a LONG time to start making ice. But it's working now.

No tools required, remove from shipping box, wash, remove old ice bucker/ auger assembly, insert new assembly.

NOTE! The product description of the ice bucket size on the PartSelect website is MISLEADING: it is not 20”L x 14”W and the photo grid is wrong. The actual size for this model is approximately 16”L x 12”W x 11.5”H, plus about 3” for metal rod extending out the back. The photo and description seems to be common across several companies. This is the correct OEM replacement for WR17X12138 and works well.

Emptied the door bin, removed it from its slots, and gently spread the plastic bin sides allowing the broken face panel to fall out. Replaced one end in the notches, gently widened the opening at the other end to slide the new face panel in, and jiggled just a little to seat the panel fully. Done!