TFX24ELM General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

When I got home I pulled the refrigerator away from the floor, checked all the water lines for leak evidence, and then took the back panel off to check everything behind. The water valve was leaking at the hose insert locations. I turned off the water, spent less than 5 minutes disassembling the valve from the rerfrigerator, and got online to buy another one. The part arrived several days before expected, and it took me less time to install the new part than it did to take the old one out. Now all I have to do is repair the floor damage I caused when pulling out the refirgerator!

I layed several small 2x4 blocks on the floor, then raised the door up from the hinge, using the small pry bar. Then removed the the screws for the hinge. Removed the screws holding the door stop and removed the door cam. Then, I replaced the door closing cam. Replaced the hinge and screws. I Lowered the door on to the hinge and applied a little lubricant to the cam and job complete.

My son did it , and showed me what he did when he was finished.

removed broken bin , slid new ice bin in closed door. I bought the complete part.

I ended up needing to order a new ice maker because the one I had is discontinued. I'm a 65yr old grandma and I did it myself!!!! The hardest part was finding the tool to loosed the nuts. I took the old one out and just put the new one right in it's place. Easy as pie.

Unplug refridge then loosened two bolts holding old ice maker. Lower then unplug and removed. Plugged in new harness and tightened two bolts to secure new ice maker. Plug in frig and wait for ice.

replacing the lines was easy, problem was the drawing on line and the parts list did not show two different size tubing used. had to run out for the 5/16 inche tubing for the water dispenser in the door. got the 1/4 inch tube done in 5 minutes.

The icemaker arm disconnected from the metal frame. This caused the icemaker to cycle and the heater to come on and stay on until the plastic parts melted causing a mess and stink. This action melted the ice and then the water fell through the frozen items in the freezer and refreezed in the lower portion. OK, I remover the dead icemaker and tossed it away. I installed the new icemaker and the wiring harness didn't fit right (way to long). I retrieved the old icemaker and removed the wiring harness from it. I removerd the new ice maker and installed the old wiring harness to the new icemaker. I then installed the new icemaker, plugged it in and turned on the power. No water, I ordered the dual solenoid water valve, installed it with difficulty (another story) the turned on the power. I reinstalled the ice bin and found it didn't fit. The icemaker was to low and couldn't be adjusted, 1/4" higher would have been great. I shoved in the bin anyway, I was out of ice for my scotch, and it started making ice.

Icemaker waterline leaking inside by the grommet where the water line comes in the refrigerator . First removed the water line from grommet . Then removed grommet by hand from the fridge. Last, reversed prodedure.

Simple snap in place.

instalation was very easy - but the part was 3/4 inch to long and a 1/32 inch to wide.Trimmed it with the "faithfull"
Dremel and it works!The instalation part of the "job" was less then 10 min.

Replaced icemaker assembly. Only 3 Phillips screws to remove the old assembly. Pretty much an exact swap. Was easy to replace but the connecting cable on the new replacement assembly wasn't very easy to make fit. Had to force it into a location that would be out of the way and allow everything to operate properly. That connecting cable should be more flexible and adapt to the fridge a little more friendly.

First, I removed all items on the door shelves and the shelves themselves to reduce the weight of the door. The door came off by itself because the bottom hinge had broken. Then I placed the door horizontal on the kitchen floor to have easier access to the bottom of the door. I had a piece of blanket under the door to prevent any scratch. I then removed two screws holding the door closing cam and shim and replaced them with the new parts. Next, I removed the base grill to have easy access to the old hinge assembly on the refrigerator itself. All I had to do was grab it firmly at either end and pull it forward. I replaced the hinge assembly with the new one. I removed the cover on the top hinge assembly and removed the two screws that secured that hinge (I was not able to put the door back without removing the top hinge assembly). All down hill from this point. Time to reinstall the door, aligning the bottom of the door cam over the hinge assembly and setting the door down on it making sure the door sets on the hinge assembly cams. To the top of the refrigerator. reinstalled the top door hinge assembly and cover (I had to make sure the door was standing straight vertically before I tightened the nuts), I also put a small amount of white grease into both the top and bottom hinges.

I found instructions on the web about how to do this repair, so I ordered the part with confidence. But the instructions simply said "pull out the old switchlight". That was actually somewhat difficult as the clip on the side intended to hold the part in was stubborn. I eventually used a utility to slice off the clip. From that point, it was just a matter of plugging in the new switchlight , which was very simple.

I took the ice maker tray out and dumped the ice and then removed 4 screws to take the plastic front off the drawer. I then took 4 more screws out to remove auger assembly. I could now unscrew the broken nut and replace it with the new one and put the snap ring and washer back in place and then put everything back together. Done
Had I had my lathe running at the time I would have made this part out of aluminum instead of the new one and original that is out of plastic which is why it did not last.