TBX22RPRRWH General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Remove the top cover above the door by lifting it slightly and pulling forward. I used a mirror to make sure that there was nothing in the way of accessing the switch from above. I used a blade screwdriver to press against the switch retainer on the topside, while GENTLY prying from below with another blade screwdriver to get the switch dislodged. Once the retainer was past the opening, I wiggled the switch downward and then rotated it to the left when the rounded top right edge of the switch was visible. This allowed the wiring to the connector to pass thru the hole. I pushed the wiring from the top and pulled from below to get the connector below the opening for the switch. I then unplugged the switch, plugged in the new switch and reversed the removal process feeding the connector thru first then rotating the switch to the right to get the rounded edge of the switch thru the opening, then pressed the switch up into the opening until it snapped into place. Total time less than 10 minutes.

I unplugged the refrigerator. Pressed the tab near the light bulb. Unplugged the socket and reconnected it.

I ordered the part, within two days we had received it. My husband put the part in and I really don't know what he used doing so. All I know is that the light works now and we don't have to use the flashlight. Thanks a lot.

Took old gasket off put new on.

Gasket came well packaged so only ran hot water over it briefly and put it on.

Unplugged fridge.Removed 2 screws holding a panel. After panel removed took off old fan and inserted new. Quite simple.

put the gratefruit knife behind the old switch pooped it out pluged the new one in piece of cake 5min.even vacumed the dust off the coil

I watched videos of the modern refrigerators and figured out how to do my model by taking my time watching as many videos that pertain to my refrigerator I finally I expose the evaporator I noticed that the defrost heater was buckled up and totally disintegrated and slowly took my time looking at the screws I took it out and I didn't have to do
disassemble bottom of the freezer to replace the part, you definitely had to have common sense and to be mechanically inclined to do this repair otherwise it was easy

Actually, a friend did it with me watching. He took out about 6 screws, removed the back plate and the old motor and installed the new motor when he realized the hole on the plate that goes in front of the motor was on the wrong side! This would have been a snap and done in about 30 minutes if it wasn't for the hole on the wrong side. So he drilled a hole on the correct side of the plate, using the old plate as a pattern, and it works fine!

We only needed the rear plastic cylindrical helix. After installing it, there was a squeal of metal on metal due to insufficient clearance between the rear moving blade and the Ice dispenser plate.

Refrigerator Ice Maker 7/16” (or ½” hole, stainless steel) washer just behind #334 Rear Moving dispenser Blade PS292310 to give clearance so it doesn’t hit #345 / PS292441 Ice Dispenser Plate.

This was my first time at doing this so it took longer than someone experienced. But, it worked!

Removed old valve easily. New WR57XI0033 valve is designed to mount on lower left, but on mine it has to mount on lower right. Had to drill two 1/32 holes in lower rail to mount the new valve.

Removed old gasket and installed new gasket, per the video instructions on the PartSelect website. Instructions were clear and accurate. I wondered if the new seal would fit snuggly and securely, but no problems. The seal holds the door closed more firmly than the old seal did. So far, so good!

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

Part attaches to metal plate near crushing fingers which attaches to ice holding bin. Remove about 6 screws total on each side of plate. You must disassemble the auger & other parts so you can reassemble it in the proper order. Not many parts but i always take pics to cut down on time. New part is at the other end of the auger and acts as the holde of the auger shaft. Picture a crankshaft with a bearing on each end so the auger rotates between new part and the other end of auger shaft. That's it.

Removed freezer door then refrigerator door. Layed it on a big drop cloth to work on it. Replace feeezer door and cover refrigerator opening with plastic or something to help keep the cold in.
Removing old gasket was easy. Just pull it out. Align the new gasket with metal bracket that holds it then firmly hammer it into place. You’ll know when it’s attached correctly cause it hugs the door properly.

Part was perfect fit .Removed fan .three screws.replaced that s it