GTL22JCP General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

The plastic slide rail that held up the bottom shelf of my frig as well as the top drawer had cracked & eventually broke. Being a widow who lives alone, I knew I could call my son to fix my frig - but I thought, maybe I could do this myself. I found the Brand, Model # & info I needed right on the inside of my frig. I did an internet search for Refrigerator parts, another first for me, found this web-site, then a diagram of my frig, I selected a part & ordered it. When it came in, I had ordered the slide for the bottom drawer & I needed the slide for the top drawer. I called the # from the invoice & got the nicest lady who found the correct part #, ordered it, then proceeded to process the return of the incorrect part I had ordered. The correct part came 2 days later & my credit card was immediately credited after they received the part I sent back. I was so excited to complete the "repair" myself, then with great pride I got my screw driver and changed out 2 screws - "completing my first repair job, all by myself". I diagnosed the problem, ordered the part & completed the repair without help from my family. I was very glad to add this web site to my Favorites. A great big ThankYou to Parts Select !!! Ann Payne

I found a replacement evaporator fan motor and 2 mounting bracket grommets at PartSelect.com at a reasonable price. I watched the installation video provided and installed the new parts as shown in the video start to finish installation time 22 minutes.i

Removed rer cover, unplugged starter assembly from side of compressor and replaced unit with a new one. Plugged fridge in and it works good.

Condenser fan motor was running slow. This was not a problem included in your list of possible problems. I thought that maybe the capacitor was bad but have no way to check it. So I ordered one. when I received it, I installed it. That was not the problem. So I ordered a fan motor and installed it. That was not the problem. So finally I ordered a control board and installed it. That solved the problem. So maybe you should put "cond.fan motor runs slow" in your list of possible faults and what causes that problem. Capacitor was easy to install, simply remove the cover plate, flip off retaining wire, unplug the capacitor and replace. Fan motor was a bit more difficult. It must be removed from mount after fan scroll is removed. Remove one screw that holds scroll, bend the top down and remove. Then pull hard on fan blade to remove it. It must be installed on new motor. Two screws in frame mount can be removed with some effort if you have a 1/4" drive ratchet with a Phillips screwdriver bit. Then pull frame open and install new motor. Push fan blade on new motor shaft hard. Replacing control board was easy. I used a pair of long nose pliers with 90 degree bend to get mounting pins closed to pull board off.

Followed the repair video, was spot on!!

luckly i have a bit of experience in refrigeration im an hvac technician by trade. this repair was a bit tricky in that i did not know at first if it was a Temperature Sensor issue or the main control board. I had tested the defrost termination thermostat and the defrost heater and as i suspected they were ok. Next i wanted to test the thermistors (temp sensors) it is hard to find technical data on these fridges. I needed to test the thermistors resistance @ a certian temperature to ensure they were working properly but where do u get such data? I also wanted to know some information about the logic programmed into the board (i.e when do you initiate defrost etc. . .). I had no such luck so i figured since i tested the defrost heater and thermostat and they were ok and all of the evap fans and such were working i'd order a circuit board and new thermistors. Got the CORRECT PARTS from this site in 2 business days and my fridge is working great! changing the parts was really easy, figuring out which parts to change was the only difficult thing about this job.

Water was leaking on the floor from under the fridge and I noticed that the cubes were very small and the ice maker was taking much too long to make ice. After pulling the fridge out from the wall, I removed the bottom back plate (about 7 screws) and checked the ice maker refill tube that goes from the inlet valve at the bottom of the fridge (left side) into the ice maker at the top right side of the fridge. The 1/4" tube had split 2 " from the inlet valve where it makes a sharp "U" turn on its' way up to the ice maker. I turned off the ice maker by raising the handle on the ice maker and turning off the 1/2" supply tube from the house supply pipe. I then tried splicing the tube by cutting it at the split and installing a 1/4" barbed splice on the two ends, but could not get a water tight connection. I then decided to order a new refill tube from Parts Select. The part arrived in 1 day (FANTASTIC SERVICE) and I installed it in about 10 minutes with no problem. (GE was out of stock on this part.) To begin, I disconnected the old tube at the water inlet valve (just push in the quick connect and then pull out) and proceeded to disconnect the other end at the top of the fridge where the ice maker is located. The molded end is adhered to the back with a sticky adhesive and must be scraped off with a putty knife before it can be pulled out. Once this is done, the new refill tube goes in the exact same way. One caution- just be sure to test and adjust the length of the white supply tube (I had to lengthen it by 1 ") before peeling the protective paper off the adhesive. It must be long enough to reach the white plastic cup that fills the ice maker. The inlet valve end of the 1/4" tube at the bottom just pushed into the quick connect connection. I then turned the ice maker back on inside the fridge by lowering the handle and also turned the house supply valve back on. I waited for the ice maker to call for water and then checked for leaks. NO LEAKS- job done!

I looked up appliance on internet,diagram only showed the inlet valve and ice maker in schematic.I ck'd to see if water was getting to valve(it was)but wasn't getting to ice maker,thus I replaced the valve and it solved the problem.

changed sensors did not repair problem,replaced damper with mechanical damper fixed problem.

Followed instructions on Installation Video and had no problems completing the installation. This from a 63 year old women!

Located temperature sensor on condenser in the freezer section( as per instructional video ). Cut off bad sensor with wire cutter then soldered on the new sensor and sealed with electrical shrink wrap.

I can't tell you how luck I feel after finding your website I ordered the temperature sensor after watching one of your videos on-line and the repair went just as on the video. I pulled the "bad" sensor out, and replaced it with the new one. Keep in mind that this is the first time I ever touch an appliance, needless to say I'm feeling pretty good about that! All in all it took me about 20 minutes to complete my repair and it now has been about 4 days and the refrigerator is working like new again!

Then I fixed it.

replaced the icemaker inlet valve. works like a champ now

I used the socket set to remove pannel that allowed me to have access to the evaporator fan. Once the fan and it's container was visible, I removed the entire fan container using the socket set. I took the fan out of the container, removed the damage blade and the damaged fan grommets. I then replace the old blade with the new blade and put the fan and the compartment back together. I am not very handy so if I am able to do this, anybody can. Ps. I was very very pleased with the services I received from PartSelect and would encourage others to use them - must admit I was very suspicious at first.