GSS20DBTC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

It was simple. Unpluged fan two screws remove from fan bracket unplug old fan replace with new one put fan in place out screws back plugged in fan then plugged in fridge fixed problem. And save a repair cost call out. A.J.

took the old one out and replaced it with the new one, then trashed the old one

I removed cover above the light from the back of the freezer. I removed the fan and clipped the wire leads, after disconnecting the breaker to the fridge. I connected the wires with wire "union" from Radio Shack. Could have used wire nuts. I put the breaker on to check that it was running, then put the cover back on. However, to fix the build up of ice on the coils in the back of the freezer, I also replaced the thermisor and the heater coil after defrosting the coils with a hair dryer. Both were easy repairs and the fridge works fine.

follow repair viedo

After replacing the Defrost Thermostat, Defrost Heater Assembly, and the Main Board, I concluded that the problem must be the Defrost Thermistor, which I replaced in less than 10 minutes and it fixed the problem! I cut the wires on the old thermistor and connected the new one after stripping the wires and taped the new connections with electrical wire. Fast and easy repair (the last part anyway ;).

Unplugged the refrigerator first....then on the inside of the fridge, I popped the temp sensor cover off (upper LH side) and exposed the old sensor. I snipped off the old sensor about 3" down from the end and connected the new sensor (which I trimmed down to about 3" long) with some heat shrink wire nuts/connectors. Let the fridge run for a day or so and confirmed the problem was solved! Oh yeah, there was no way to tell the 2 wires apart (power vs. ground) on the sensor. However there was a manufacturer's stamp on the wires. So note the orientation of the text and mark one of the wires with a sharpie on both the old and new sensor before trimming. This will give you a reference for which wires to connect when adding the new sensor to the old wires.

took out shelves and removed the back plate my removing 2 screws with a nutdriver.removed the old defrost timer and defrost heater which was really easy.then installed the new ones.the video i watched on the website was really helpfull.

changed sensors did not repair problem,replaced damper with mechanical damper fixed problem.

Parts were perfect. Shipment great. It took a bit of time to get back to the Evaporator fan, so i basically had to take the entire freezer apart. Not a problem. The one issue i ran into was my unit had 2 white wires which connected to a silver bullet thing, that were not included in the wiring harness. Maybe I could have ordered that part (thinking out loud) I had to cut the old one apart, and adapt them into the new one, which had 2 holes to spare for this purpose. I guess i could have spliced every wire, but didn't. The freezer now SOUNDS LIKE A FREEZER. Thanks,

1. Removed and tested defrost heater, tests good. 2. Reinstalled defrost heater. 3. Removed and tested defrost over-temperature sensor, tests good. 4. Reinstalled over-temperature sensor using soldering iron, dielectric silicone grease, and heat-shrink tubing. 5. Removed the control printed circuit board and checked for blown fuse's, fuse's are all good. 6. Removed the defrost relay from the printed circuit board using soldering iron, bench tested the relay, it is good. 7. Soldered defrost relay back onto the circuit board, and reinstalled control board. 8. Removed and bench tested evaporator thermistor, the resistance is out of specification, ordered new thermister. 9. Installed new thermistor using soldering iron, dielectric silicone grease, and heat-shrink tubing. 10. Re-assembled refrigerator. 11. Installed temperature monitoring and recording instrumentation for 72 hour test. The defrost cycle is running correctly with a defrost termination temperature of around 90 deg-f. The defrost cycle ran twice while running the 72 hour test. 11. Removed test instrumentation and Put the unit back into service, The thermistor was the culprit. I bought the right part on the first shot, nice.

I drilled a hole and was able to install the new hinge. Moreover, somehow the wrong hinge arrived however I simply drilled another hole. The new hing works fine. I appreciate the quick arrival of the part. Thanks, Stephen. It took about one hour to modify the part.

On partselects video the gentleman removes the fan and housing in one piece. This is a great idea but does not work on this brand of ge. I removed the fan housing screw as instructed but left it in place and swiveled it enough to access the retaining screws with a socket driver. Over all swap of the fan was seamless and the video is a gem. Andy

I have a GE Profile French door refrig. It's only about 4 yrs old and the defroster stopped working. I read the other repair stories and was able to narrow it down to either the temp sensor, defrost timer, or main board. The refrig section was up to about 47 degrees and freezer was around 25. I could tell it was trying to cool but couldn't. So I tried the temp sensor first. I cut and spliced the new sensor on the outlet of the Evap. Coil and it took about 15 mins. Turned refrig back on and waited. The coil started to ice over after about 5 hrs I left the back panel off so I could see if and when then heater kicked on. After about 8 hrs I looked in and saw a faint glow and water trickling down and running out the drain. Turned out the sensor was bad and wasn't telling the main board it needed to defrost. I would try the sensor if you are having the same issues before spending a lot of money on the main board, defrost heater and or timer.

Followed the repair video, was spot on!!

luckly i have a bit of experience in refrigeration im an hvac technician by trade. this repair was a bit tricky in that i did not know at first if it was a Temperature Sensor issue or the main control board. I had tested the defrost termination thermostat and the defrost heater and as i suspected they were ok. Next i wanted to test the thermistors (temp sensors) it is hard to find technical data on these fridges. I needed to test the thermistors resistance @ a certian temperature to ensure they were working properly but where do u get such data? I also wanted to know some information about the logic programmed into the board (i.e when do you initiate defrost etc. . .). I had no such luck so i figured since i tested the defrost heater and thermostat and they were ok and all of the evap fans and such were working i'd order a circuit board and new thermistors. Got the CORRECT PARTS from this site in 2 business days and my fridge is working great! changing the parts was really easy, figuring out which parts to change was the only difficult thing about this job.