TBF21RBD General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

People would use the ice maker and just let it grind and eventually the bin and the plastic cup at the end of the auger broke.
I replaced the ice maker and once satisfied it worked and did not leak, I took the bucket/auger mechanism apart and replace both the bucket and the ice cup.
While the Frig is getting old, it has paneling that matches our cabinets so we are trying to get a few more years out of this. This repair is one I should have done 10 years ago! Thanks Parts Select!

Unplugged fridge.Removed 2 screws holding a panel. After panel removed took off old fan and inserted new. Quite simple.

I opened the freezer door and removed the access panel, then with a phillip screwdriver,I removed 1 scew and used a pair of pliers to pull the wires off.I then reversed the prosess.EASY

Removed icemaker bin, removed auger assembly, cleaned broken part debris out, put in new part, re-assembled bin/auger assy, done!!

Found a step by step video on YouTube made replacement very easy. Cubed ice is back. Time for a cocktail to celebrate!

Removed the broken fan blade (just pulled off) and replaced with part purchased PartSelect. Very easy repair, no tools required.

Pulled ice tub, removed auger rotation motor and solenoid housing, removed solenoid and replaced with new one and reinstalled. Checked solenoid was working by holding freezer door open and closing switch to door an activating ice switch-- solenoid picked up. Put ice tub with auger back into freezer.

Determined that the little door that opens to allow full size cubes to fall was not opening. If you open freezer door, hold door switch in, select cubes and push in the lever that the glass pushes in you should hear the solenoid lift open which opens the little door. Mine was doing nothing. Removed ice bin and then removed icemaker motor/solenoid section from back of freezer by disconnecting two wire harnesses and one screw. Found that solenoid smelled burnt and could see that inside of the solenoid was swollen out of round and burnt. Simple to replace.

Removed broken part (actually it fell out)

Inserted new part. Nothing to it.

All I had to do was raise feeding screw and attach new drive cup, the lower all back into ice tray

Remove upper door, remove inner door panel and restring the lanyard. It must be correct or it wont work. Be sure to try it before replaceing the inner panel.It helps I was in the appliance for over 40 years

I removed the front of the unit assembly and removed the entire auger unit and drive assembly. I married the old drive cup and new drive cup back to back using vise grip pliers, drilled 4 3mm holes, installed 4 phillips head stainless steel screws and, using an emory wheel, ground off the exposed screw ends. I then re-installed the drive assembly and auger unit. This increased the length of the drive cup allowing the drive to fit without any slippage. The entire cost was less than $18.00 including shipping and screws and took about 1 hour. It works great.

Solicited repair information from appliance repair forum. A refrigeration appliance repair tech. responded. Told me there was a schematic under the refrigerator behind the front grill that would explain how to re thread the lanyard. It was there & thats how I learned to fix it.

1.Removed defrost timer and replaced with new one.2. Removed panel on inside bottom of freezer compartment.3.Removed freezer thermostat and replaced with new one.4.Checked ohm resistance reading on heater element.It was ok. 5. Replaced bottom panel.6. Checked temperature in freezer and refrigerator for 2 days. Temperatures were as they should be. Checked drain pan under refrigerator to see if heater element was de-icing the evaporator coils. Tray had small amount of moisture in it. Working properly now.

Naturally you have to push the frig from the wall and unplug it form the wall outlet and while you are removing and installing the old motor and installing the new motor. Do not open any of the frig and freezer door untill you are finished and you plug the power cord back into the wall outlet. Remove the lower back panel with a screw driver or a 5/16th hex driver. It is a kind of carboard. Once all the screws are out of that panel pull the top out from behind the steel above and then pull it out from the bottom and set it aside. Unplug the power line off of the motor. There are 3 separate brakets holding the motor in place. 1st remove the fan from the motor by romving the finger nut off the motor shaft and then remove the 1st bracket screw from the bracket all the way. Then use a light to see the other 2 screws and you will see that you do not have to take them all the way out like the first one. Just loosen the other 2 and then turn the motor and brackets counter clockwise and then pull the motor and brackets all out as one from the right hand side of where the brackets were mounted. I took the motor and brackets to the counter and removed te brackets from the motor and installed them to the new motor making sure that the bracket with the one screw hole in it is mounted at the right place so that when you reenstall the motor and brackets will let the motor wire connector be the closest to the outside where you can replug the power cord back onto the motor. Install the fan onto the new motor with the new finger nut that comes with the new motor. replace the back panel and pkug in the power cord fot the frig and let it run. Mine ran a lot quieter after the new motor was plugged in. Have fun if you have to do it. It is worth it.