TBF21RBD General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Remove three screws insert part; manually checked out drive and waited for ice to buildup and it worked like new.

Went online to ge how to and saw that there were @12/13 steps to access the slide that this knob attaches to, empty freezer, remove door, remove gasket, etc. Instead I used very warm water to make the knob pliable and slipped it from the front side over the slide track and into the selector slide. Done in three minutes!

Turned off and unplugged refrigerator.
Removed 1 screw (Phillips head) to detach old timer and 2 hex head screws to remove bracket from "beam" in front (bottom) of "fridge"and detach grounding wire. (Slightly difficult to maneuver bracket out of fridge.
Disconnected 4 wires from old timer and attache them to new one. Replaced (new) timer and bracket. Assumed that separate grounding wire was unnecessary because of cross-wiring between trrminals. (Was I incorrect?)
GE didn't have the timer but PartSelect had a suitable substitute.

It would have been quicker if I knew what I was doing in advance

Unplug unit from wall. Removed cover from rear of unit. Cleaned coils with vaccuum cleaner. Unplug wires from fan motor and remove nut holding fan blade to motor. Remove 3 screws holding motor to mount. Replace with new motor,make sure fan blade does not hit housing. Plug unit back in wall and replace cover.

Remove the 4 screws holding the back cover onto the refrigerator. Unplug the power for the refrigerator. There's 3 bolts holding the fan motor assembly to the refrigerator. Loosen the two bolts which allow the brackets to pivot out , and remove the third bolt. Disconnect the electrical leads, and remove the fan blade, then rotate the fan motor assembly out from the refrigerator. Install mounting brackets from the old motor onto the new motor, then reinstall the assembly in the reverse order of removal.

I took the ice maker tray out and dumped the ice and then removed 4 screws to take the plastic front off the drawer. I then took 4 more screws out to remove auger assembly. I could now unscrew the broken nut and replace it with the new one and put the snap ring and washer back in place and then put everything back together. Done
Had I had my lathe running at the time I would have made this part out of aluminum instead of the new one and original that is out of plastic which is why it did not last.

Found your web site and bought a couple of replacement parts from you guys and reaaembled unit. Its now working. Only issue I had was in the reassembly of the auger unit, wasn't quite sure of the blades etc. and the proper order Saw the sketch on your site and figured it out from that. Will visit you guys again when I need a part. Good delivery and timely. Thanks and regards Gil

Emptied the ice from tray.
Removed the four screws that hold the face plate.
Removed the four screws that fasten drive housing to the tray.
Slid the drive cup into place at the end of the auger.
Made sure the rubber gasket was in place .
Replaced the four screw that hold the housing to the tray.
Replaced the four screws that hold the face plate.
Put some ice cubes in the tray and tested to be sure everything worked properly.

we took off the old one and replaced it.

Cut old thermostat out and installed with heat shrinking wrap and solder the wires and still having issues it might be something else.

Looked at existing installation removed it with 6 piece screwdriver and replaced it in the reverse order.
Not complicated at all.

I did not do the repair yet, there is no schematic on how to route the hose; also no description of how to do the routing/connections.

I had to order bucket as well. Then I removed 3 screws from bottom of bucket and removed auger parts as a unit put new drive cup in new bucket and re attached auger parts as assyembly and reinstalled in freezer.

Let me start by saying, I usually hire something like this out but figured I would give it a try. The install was fairly straight forward, however it would’ve been nice if the instructions would have been more useful. Instructing me to remove one screw to release the auger and solenoid enclosure wouldve been nice. There were 3 other screws that I didn’t need to remove and they were the ones holding the auger in place, which made assembling that much more difficult. Once to enclosure was removed, and the solenoid was exposed, it was a seemless process. I would however, recommend paying attention to or taking a picture of the connections on the solenoid. I was lucky to remember or got lucky. Regardless, I was able to complete the project successfully. If I had to do it again, I believe it can be done in 30 minutes or less.

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.