HTS22GBPW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Instructions say run capacitor is by motor, but on this frige its in the refrigerator compartment. The capacitors looks different, one square and the other long

Removed the broken slide (two screws) replaced with the new part

I visually inspected the compressor and narrowed down the source of the noise to the freezer area. Then I removed the doors and the screws securing the divider panel. Next I removed the bottom panel of the freezer, the styrofoam insullation panel and the evaporator motor. The motor is mounted between two grommets. I replaced the grommet facing the fan blades. The aluminum reflector below the styrofoam insulation panel had also come loose. I reattached it and reassembled the refrigerator in reverse order. The noise is gone!

repair was simple removed glass shelf and removed the two screws holding rail in place. I was really amazed at the quick service that I had receiced, I ordered two of the same part and they had the instructions to send back the additional part in my email the next day. Thanks for your help.

I read stories from the website how others did it so I figured I would give it a try. I put all the frozen stuff in the refrigerator piled up. Took out the shelves. Took out 2 screws with a socket extension ( nut driver will work fine.) Remove the light bulb. lifted up on the back panel...it came right out. Saw the coils and on top the sensor. Took it off, cut the wires, spliced in the color coded new one ( pink to pink, orange to orange) Stuck it in the top coil in the original position and crossed my fingers! I put all the pieces back easily, restocked the freezer and waited. HOORAY!! My ice cubes are all separate and free. NO frost inside. A very easy fix for $20.

Note: If there is a large amount of ice build up on your coils a hair dryer works great. The drain is on the bottom anyway. Also , you may want to seal around the wire nuts to keep moisture out. I did

Like the other repair story I read about this part, the fridge was cool not cold (58* instead of an ideal 38*), and my ice cream stayed soft in the freezer. I removed the pannels in the freezer with a small socket wrench to find the fan burnt out. When the motor came, all I had to do was move the fan blade and gromets to the new motor. Closed it into the brackets and remounted it to the freezer. The part cost less here than at the factory web site and the fridge works great. Thank you PartSelect.com!

took the back off and defrosted with a hairdryer. disconected the part pulled the part out cut the wires. put the other part on and instaled it. put it back together and it seems to be working just fine. thank you

The original design is poor. The evaporator fan is mounted in an upright position just below the ice-maker. A plastic grate mounts over the fan assembly to allow for air circulation. Unfortunately, random chips of ice from the ice maker can fall into the fan, causing the fan to shear its blades. Replacement of the fan blade is relatively simple (accept for having to completely unload the freezer and remove all back covers, the ice-maker auger motor assembly, and the metal evaporator cover). In order to mimimze this from reoccuring, I installed a 1/4'' mesh metal screen over the exhaust ports on the cover. Thus far, this has worked well to keep ice chips out of the evaporator fan.

remove back panel inside fridge freezer side, everything frosted, unplug and used a hair dryer

1. Took out defrost heater and the bottom and tested (per this site) tested OK.

2. Then looked at the defrost thermostat, it was swollen with the top coming off. so i new it was bad
3.clipped and stripped the 2 wires, spliced in the new one with wire nuts and sealed them with silicone. All better

I removed all 3 drawers and then removed the 2 screws holding the left side rail that had a broken retainer notch.

Rescrewed new one in and re-installed the drawers. It was that easy.

Removed the divided glass shelf, to which the slide rail is attached. Removed the broken rail, saved the two screws.
Now comes the clincher:
It would help if the replacement part website would tell you what size and what kind screwdriver you will need, so you could start chasing it while you wait for the part.
Even better if they could include it, since the plastic part and it‘s shipment is not exactly cheap.
So to screw in two screws you need a #15 Star screwdriver!
How many housewife’s have this one in the tool drawer?

Removed goods in fridge, removed shelf, unscrewed 2 screws, installed new drawer slide with 2 screws, replaced shelf, inserted drawer. Most of the time was moving the stuff in the refregerator. If the fridge was empty it would have taken me 2 minutes.

Simply take off the back panel. Remove the old run capacitor which is attached to the compressor by a white part. It pulls right off. You will have to unplug two wires. I took a pic to ensure I plugged the wires back up the correct way. Then I attached the new capacitor to the white part and put on the sleeve that was included, plugged it back into the compressor and zip tied the excess part of the sleeve. Once done plug fridge back up (always unplug electric devices when doing maintenance) to check before replacing back panel. It may take a few minutes before it kicks on.

I simply removed the old seal on the refrigerator door and replaced it by just pushing the new gasket seal back into place. It was a very easy repair to do.

It was a snap! Literally. We just pulled out the old one, cleaned the track and snapped in the new one