TBEW18ZPLRWH General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- janette from huntingtown, MD
- Parts Used:
- WR17X2769
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
needed to replace broken drawer slide rail,
removed produce drawers, removed center piece front cover, removed glass shelf, removed broken drawer slide rail - unscrewing where attached in the rear of the refrigerator. Also removed screw from centerpiece where broken drawer slide rail was attached. reassembled all very quickly....saved myself having to buy another refrigerator by doing this simple repair.
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- Customer:
- Sumlorq from Cleveland, OH
- Parts Used:
- WR23X37285
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
light switch freezer door
put the gratefruit knife behind the old switch pooped it out pluged the new one in piece of cake 5min.even vacumed the dust off the coil
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- Customer:
- Kenneth from Rowe, VA
- Parts Used:
- WR2X9391
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
bulb out
I ordered the part, within two days we had received it. My husband put the part in and I really don't know what he used doing so. All I know is that the light works now and we don't have to use the flashlight. Thanks a lot.
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- Customer:
- Robert from SAN DIEGO, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR2X9162
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
My freezer door had a retainer bar that became disconnected at one end because the coupling broke.
I slipped the coupling over the bar and then into a door slot. It was very easy.
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- Customer:
- Mark from Keyport, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WR17X2769
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
My wife forced the fruit drawer in and snapped the slide rail.
I pulled out the shelf and removed the 2 screws holding the broken side rail to the shelf frame. I then screwed the new rail in and set the shelf back in.
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original parts broken (poor design)
Unscrewed four screws, two on each part, and replaced broken parts, reinserting screws. This is a no-brainer repair.
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broken slide rails
Basically I removed 4 screws holding the rails together, did a little cleaning of the existing parts that I would re-use and screwed the 4 screws back in and put it back into the fridge. Piece of cake. If I hadn't cleaned up the old parts it would have taken me 5 minutes.
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- Customer:
- Deborah from BRADLEYVILLE, MO
- Parts Used:
- WR23X37285
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Broken light switch
This was so easy I think it took me 2 minutes. I am not very mechanically inclined but that didn't matter! Works perfect thank you!
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- Customer:
- Nan from PURCELLVILLE, VA
- Parts Used:
- WR2X9391
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
My light in the refrigerator was going on and off.
I unplugged the refrigerator. Pressed the tab near the light bulb. Unplugged the socket and reconnected it.
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- Customer:
- Linda from WILLIAMSPORT, PA
- Parts Used:
- WR60X30349
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Evap fan failed, would need restarted by hand when weather warmed up
Repair was super simple. Everything was a direct fit. Hardest part was unloading freezer to access evap motor. My freezer was old making my wire shields very brittle so I cut the shielding and used heat shrink tubing for a neat clean repair.
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- Customer:
- Jorge from Spring Lake, NC
- Parts Used:
- WR17X2769
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
broken right side rail.
I had to remove the glass shelve, the two drawers, and the middle rail. Once I did that, I slide the unit out together. I placed the unit on the floor and removed the one screw located on the far backside of the unit. I had to remove a slip cover (it had the kenmore logo and the writting on it) it was a snap on, so no problem. Glad it was not gluded on. After the old part was removed, I put the new part on. Put the two screws back on and snap the cover back on. Then I put the whole unit back in. This included the glassshelve and drawers. The process was pretty easy. Good luck with your change.
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- Customer:
- Edward from E LONGMEADOW, MA
- Parts Used:
- WD2X5166
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
water leaking from under dishwasher
Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.
Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.
A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.
Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.
A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.
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- Customer:
- Laurence from Northport, NY
- Parts Used:
- WR17X2769
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
R/S rail was broken draw would not slide in correctly.
Took out both draws and glass shelf, removed the entire lower shelf housing. I snapped off the front rail aluminum face to expose the screw. Unscrewed both screws and removed the rail and then just reversed the procedure to put new rail on. It was the most cost effective way of doing it. All the pieces are there on the GE website as long as you know the model number. You will save a lot of money by doing it yourself.
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- Customer:
- Phyllis C. from Northwood, NH
- Parts Used:
- WR17X2769
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Slide rail broken at forward mount
Took out shelf & brackets. Removed plastic shelf. Unscrewed broken bracket & screwed in new bracket.
Put back in & replaced the shelf.
Put back in & replaced the shelf.
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Left drawer slide broken replaced both right and left
Removed drawers and glass shelf. Removed screws that hold old slide rails in place. Installed new rails and re-installed cover for vents. Placed assembly back in and installed drawers.
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