FRS26F4DB3 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

OK, what I really want to talk about is the really poor quality of the fan motor. This is the third time that it has failed (about once per year). Local maintenance shops do not stock the motor, hence the frozen food thaws before they can get a part. I always keep a spare motor so that I can immediately repair the fridge.

The repair is very easy - remove all racks in the freezer and then remove their slides. Then remove the screws in the back plate. Due to the ice maker, the plate will not come out, so just pull it up and tie it off. Remove the screws to remove the motor fan assembly. I did the repair with the power on, BUT BE CAREFUL if you do so. Uplug the power from the motor, and remove the assembly from the freezer. Disamble and replace the motor. Then revese the above and you're freezing again.

Unplugged fridge, removed all screws from inside freezer panel. Removed bracket, fan blade and wires from evaporator motor and swapped motor with new one. Very easy. Professional repairman wanted almost $200 to fix it. Total cost for me was $35 and 25 minutes on a Saturday afternoon. Thanks PartSelect for the quick delivery, low price and tips on the replacement.

I simply slid both of the shelves onto the hinges on both doors. Perfect fit. Couldn't be happier with purchase. Site offers diagrams of appliance so it is easy to find needed replacement parts.

I first located the wiring diagram under right frt. of fridge. Using it I troubleshot the problem to be the ADC module. I ordered the ADC module and blower motor that it controls(as a precaution since that is the device that the ADC drives)After removing the icemaker and all the back panels in the freezer you can access the blower motor. The ADC module is accessible after removing the plastic panels in the top of the fridge. Look for a burn spot on the module. Be sure to order the parts using the fridge model # and not the parts # on the wiring diagram(they will have changed since the model was built). Mine needed an updated wiring harness and deleted one of the dampner motors. Be sure to replace one wire at a time so not to get confused of wire location. Pretty straight forward repair if you have some mechanical ability. I have never repaired a fridge before, but have done car electronic work.

After unsuccessfully trying to change the blown light bulb I discovered that the plastic light socket had gotten so hot that it melted and permanently fused with the blown bulb. After my new socket arrived in the mail I just popped the temp control assembly out with a screw driver and removed the old socket and placed the new one in. Whole operation to 5 minutes.

First I pulled the ice tray out so I could see the solenoid housing/ice tray support(1 unit). Below the ice tray there are 2 screws that hold the solenoid housing/ice tray support. After removing those the assembly lifts up so you can see the wiring harness to disconnect. I pulled it out and removed the 2 screws to open it up. There is 2 screws holding the solenoid in place and one ground wire. This was an easy fix and I know I saved a lot of money.

Simply replaced the drawer cover (frame) of that shelf. Removed crisper drawer, removed glass shelf, removed frame, placed new frame in, then glass, then drawer. Very easy.

1.Unplugged appliance. Removed rear access panel, turned off water supply valve, removed two screws holding water valve assembly in place.
2. Removed and drained all water lines.
3. Removed three electric solenoid wiring connections.
4.Cut and marked all water lines to facilitate new connecting procedure (instructions provided with the new valve assembly).
5. Inserted the water lines into the new valve by applying a bit of vaseline on tubing end prior to pushing lines into O-ring fittings.
6. Clean the embarassing dust from under the appliance!!!

Note: All lines, wiring, and valves were color-coded to prevent connecting to wrong lines and electric solenoids.

Note: Be sure to remove water inlet supply trough to rear of ice-maker. This tube may freeze solid and prevent water from filling freeze tray. This is done by turning the inlet pipe on the back of the cabinet 1/4 turn and retracting from cabinet.

This occurred on Sunday and I ordered the part Sunday afternoon. By Tuesday afternoon the replacement was back at work. It just slipped into place, without any tools or fuss.

Turn off power to refrigerator. Remove dispenser tray and three screws. Lift up on cover and pull away from fridg. Next remove control circuit board, use magnetic screw driver on very small screws. Important to mark all wires and their location before removing. Remove water tube from water actuator by lifting tube out of actuator,you don't have to turn water off. Next remove dispenser module and set next to new dispenser module. Then carefully remove and install parts on new dispenser module. Take your time and besure all parts installed as they were on the old module.

I checked the dampener, it worked. The compressor and fan worked. I knew because my freezer was still hovering around 10 degrees. Coils were clean. Thermistor was the only thing it could be. Took all my shelves out. Removed four screws. Took the back panel off. The thermistor sits tucked in on the side. I piped it out, in clipped it. Used my multimeter to test the numbers. Numbers were off just a bit. Ordered the part. Crossed my fingers.,took less then 5 minutes to put the part in. Plugged in the fridge. It was sitting at 33 degrees in about an hour and a half. I can’t believe I fixed it. I knew NOTHING about refrigerators. For how big my fridge is, it would have cost 3,000 and up to get a new one with the same cu ft size. Instead, it cost me $44. That includes shipping. Thank you Parts Select!! Made it so easy to pick the correct part for my model fridge!

The parts came within 2 days. The delivery was great. I took the food off the door, then removed the top hinge. Lifted door off bottom hinge and laid the door on a blanket on the floor. I then had access to the closing mechanism top and bottom that is just two plastic cams that lift the door as it opens. The weight of the door then is used on the cams to help close the door with the appliance level. It was very simple and assembly was just reverse order.

Pulled the fridge from encloser, removed rear cardboard cover and found compressor in rear. The compressor, being very accessable, was easy to find the bad starter/capacitor. I removed the spring retainer, pulled the capacitor off the starter, removed the starter by pulling outward and replaced with new. All went well when the unit started and cooled as new. Some noise at times, but traced to icemaker. As time went by, that noise was gone.

This issue was noted in the advice area as being a filter, or valve assembly. But it turned out to be a diode kit that was causing this issue. I don't know why I could not find this issue anywhere on line? When I received the diode kit there was instructions that noted exactly the problem I was having.
The fix was easy just a few wires cut and spliced and viola fixed.

1. Remove outer plastic face cover (4) screws.

2. Revove (1) U type nut keeper & (1) metal washer.

3. Remove (1) plastic nut on end of metal auger.

4. Remove inner plastic cover (4) screws and disconnect control rod. (Note postion of control rod befor disconnecting)

5. Note position and order of metal blades and plastic spacers on auger before siding off the end of auger to reposition them upon re-assembly.

6. Remove metal support panel from end of ice bucket (4) screws.

7. Remove auger & plastic cylinder from ice bucket.

8. Remove - slide drive blade off auger.

9. Drive blade replaced.

10. Re-assembled other items removed in reverse order