FRS26F4DB3 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

We had the bins the next day. I had called some other companies and they wanted twice your price! You were much more curteous on the phone, much more professional and quicker and cheaper! I will tell everyone in Florida who to call if they need a part!
Thank you so much!
Linda Cecil

Replaced with new parts... they just pop right in. Cheap plastic used by manufacturer gets brittle with exposure to low temperatures and over a mere 5 years all break off. Very annoying.

Pushed the button on the filter in the fridge, the cartridge popped out and in with the new. That simple. Prior to replacement the water was leaking, although it was still producing water and ice through the door. When the filter was out, no leaks, but no water and ice! Just needed a new filter.

we researched the internet with our symptoms and most sites said it was the thermostat. At $800+ for a new refrigerater, we decided to order the thermostat. Found schematics on the net, the thermostat was located in teh freezer compartment . Unplugged, removed food from freezer, removed the bottom shelf in freezer, and the back panel It was EASY to find. Cut 2 wires, replaced with new thermostat. DONE! The new thermostat came with new connecters.

pulled fridge from wall, removed card board cover, unplug the fridge. turn the water off to the fridge. remove the water source from fridge first then remove 2 screws that hold the valve. then the wire plugs. hoses.. they were color coded.

Slide off drip tray at bottom of ice/water compartment.

Remove the 3 screws along bottom edge of face plate. Slide face plate upwards slightly to disengage tabs holding top of face plate to fridge door. Pull face plate slightly away from fridge, reach behind plate, and disconnect wiring harness. Set face plate aside.

Remove 3 screws holding ice/water actuator mechanism to fridge door. Disconnect wiring harness on left side of actuator mechanism. This allows the left side of mechanism to swing outwards.

Looking down on top of mechanism, loosen the two screws holding the small, metal retaining plates for ice actuator. (The metal plates hold the ice actuator pivot pins in place in the actuator mechanism). Once the two screws are loosened, the metal plates can be moved to the side to free the ice actuator.

Remove old ice actuator and replace with new actuator. NOTE: Ensure the black ice door flap regulator (the thing with the gear teeth) stays engaged with the gear on the damping mechanism while installing the new ice actuator).

Move the metal retaining plates back in place over the ice actuator pivot pins and tighten both screws. Move the ice/water actuator mechanism back in place and re-connect the wiring harness on the left side. Re-install the 3 screws holding the entire mechanism in place.

Re-connect the wiring harness to the face plate and slide the tabs at the top of the plate into the holes in the fridge door. Slide face plate down and line up the 3 screw holes at the bottom of plate. Re-install the 3 screws. Re-install the drip tray. You're done!

When cleaning the coils on your refrigerator always remember rule number 1, unplug it first. I was cleaning the coils and hit the fan blade while it was moving with a brush, thus breaking off one of the fan blades. I ordered a new fan and installed it in about 15 minutes. Very easy repair.

Simply swapped out the entire icemaker, works like a charm

We opened our freezer last week only to find the bottom 2/3 was barely cold, while only the rear of the upper shelf was cold. In fact, it was covered in frost, despite being a frost-free model. Our frozen veggies were slushy, not rock hard, and our frozen juices were all liquid. We defrosted the freezer, plugged it back in, but immediately noticed that we didn't hear the 'whhoooooosh' that you typically hear when you close the freezer door. After 30 minutes, the rear upper shelf was frosty again, but the rest was still at room temp. We figured the freezer was a goner, so we started looking at new freezers. I headed online to see if I could fix it, and I eventually found this site. I had learned online that these symptoms can be caused by either a bad capacitor, or a bad controller (which the capacitor plugs in to). I guess you can't necessarily tell which of the two parts is defective, so I chose to order/replace both of them. I ordered the correct parts from partselect.com, and they alerted me that Frigidaire has a new replacement part for the capacitor. When the parts arrived (quickly, ftw!), I unplugged the freezer and snipped the two wires leading to the controller. Next I unplugged the controller from the compressor housing. I spliced the replacement controller's wires into the freezer's wires (using my own wire nuts...as none were included with my order :( ). I snapped the new controller onto the compressor mounting, and then plugged the capacitor in. I plugged the freezer back in, and it was time for the moment of truth. The interior light of the freezer came on, and I could hear the compressor 'humming'. I could hear it humming before the repair, so the big test was to see if it got cold. I was nervous because the freezer DIDN'T make the 'whoooshing' noise right away, but after just an hour, the 'test' mug of water was already turning into ice. It was fixed!!!! If you have these symptoms, you CAN do this!!! Unplug the freezer. Cut two wires. Unplug the controller. Splice two wires. Plug in the new controller. Snap in the new capacitor. DONE!!!

Just slid into place provided.

Repair was very easy - and to my great delight, they have replaced the old-style compression fittings with PEX push-fittings. You just clip the old compression ring and nut off the tubing and insert the tubing firmly into the fitting. SNAP! VOILA! PEX fittings are the greatest things since sliced bread. I used it to plumb my new house.

I removed the drawer from the support rails and placed it aside. I then removed the entire shelf that the rails were attached to. Each rail contained one (1) screw. I removed the screw, slid the support rails back approximately a 1/4 inch and they popped out. I replaced with the new rails, sliding them into place in reverse of how I removed the damaged ones & attached with the screw. I cleaned the shelf off and placed it back in the refrigerator, and placed the meat drawer onto the new rails. It actually took longer to clean the shelf than perform the repair.

turned off water supply at water line to fridge. removed two hex head screws @ bottom of rear of appliance that hold the water valve in place.
Simply moved color coded elect. plugs from old one to new one, same with water lines. Only difference is, the replacement one I got uses push in water lines and my original was compression fit. No problem though, just cut the nipple off of original line going into new valve and you are good to go. Might want to have an extra 1/'4" brass compression washer though for the one remaining line. Whole process I did on my lunch break at home less than 30 minutes.
Only problem though was nothing changed. Spoke with service man over the phone and he said MOST of the time it is water freezing up in the inlet tube top of machine, inside. Remove water line from rear outside on top behind freezer and with a straw try to blow through, if it is froze it will not go through. Mine did not go through. Used hair dryer inside freezer in back on incoming line 5-10 minutes,thawed out, makes ice. Go figure. Changing valves was easy and well described as stated, just not necessary in my case, but now I know. Thanks, Warren in Iowa

After three years of cussing this 5-year old fridge for not ejecting the ice, and having to reach in and pull it out by hand, I fixed it with $100 and five minutes. Worse, I probably could have gotten Sears to honor the warranty and replace it when it first started acting up.

Repair could not have been easier. Loosened the two screws/fasteners with 1/4" drive socket set (straight-slot screwdriver wouldn't bite in the shallow slot). Do not remove screws completely; assy lifts up and off the screws for removal. Turn the unit slightly, unclip the electrical connector and remove. Installation is the reverse. Ensure assy sits flush on the screws to assure tray is level.

Although I probably could/should have unplugged the fridge first, I did not. I made sure the ice maker assy was off prior to installation to keep it from cycling on as I attached the ice maker electrical connector, which is before the remounting procedure.

Now it's making so much ice I have to find the plastic shelf cover for the ice bin to keep it from overflowing (which also helps move the ice level bar up to temporarily suspend ice production).

To access the part you have to remove the back panel of the freezer compartment from the inside of the freezer itself. There are four screws to this panel. I emptied the contents of the freezer, took of 2 shelves and brackets to gain access and removed the cover. Located the part , cut the wires with a wire cutter and left a small tail ....MAKE SURE TO UNPLUG REFRIG OF COURSE ... the part is clipped on the coils , added the new part. matched the color wires and added the connectors , crimped the wires and added a little electrical tape and put the panel and shelves back. THE REFRIG IS WORKING LIKE A CHARM