PHSC239DSB0 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

Consult the exploded view of the Ice Container on this site. A likely cause the end plate (17) is worn. This plate connects the rotating corkscrew to the final plastic worm that pushes the ice into the crusher and thence to your waiting glass. The worm alone will not do the trick. To replace this plate, you need to take out all of the screws you can see, including the one that holds the spring for the crusher select bar.. First, the front cover, then the plate, and finally, locking ring from the worm and the black housing for the crusher. Now you can remove the whole worm assembly. Using a cloth or rubber insulator to protect it, unscrew the end screw and slide off the crusher teeth. Store on the table as a unit to facilitate re-assembly. Slide off the old bar and worm, put them back, and re-assemble. Takes a little dexterity to get the crusher select bar back, but not hard. Easy job.

Took drawers out by removing 2 screws on top of rail near front, then popped black plastic cover off in lower right inside cabinet...sensor just un plugged and new one plugged in easily...did not fix problem though...display set at 34 but bottom drawer reads about 40 at best and upper drawer reads around 55...dont think the 3 little fans inside on back wall have been running

The part was easy to find on the site, instructions were right on and it only took 25 minutes to accomplish with just a screw driver and a pair of pliers.

We replaced the damper, but it didn't fix the problem. We then purchased and replaced the thermistor. (We had previously replaced the defrost thermostat). The refrigerator side is now cooling better, but not enough. The damper doesn't seem to be opening. So we have now unplugged the damper and left the opening between the refrigerator propped open and the refrigerator side is now cool enough. (We had previously tried keeping the damper open before we replaced the thermistor and the refrigerator didn't cool off. So the thermistor did fix something, but the damper doesn't seem to have been the problem).

I ordered a new shelf and I put in, less than minute

We had to unhook & remove icemaker several times, thaw it out & reinstall, it would work for a day or two then overflow. Bought the new ice marker, replace it and it works great....

Remove the bottom freezer drawer. Remove back metal evaporator panel. Wire in new defrost terminationT-stat. Reassemble evap panel. Good to go.

Not too bad, remove the water and ice bezel (3 philips screws) then remove the dispenser unit another 3-4 philips screws. Remove water line from dispenser unit (remember this as the water tube re-insertion is the complicated part) I did not remove anything other then components listed above. Seals and inner door stay intact. Replaceing the actuator and arm was easy. two small philips will free the actuator and arm. Disconnect the two wire harness (black and red) NOTE- there are two sets of black and red wire harnesses that plug in next to each other. One is for the ice dispenser and the other for the water. putting it back together is as easy as taking it apart. However the water line has no play, no slack at all so when reinserting it, the space between the dispenser unit and the door itself is limited. Put the tip of the hose down into the hole you removed it from, hold the dispenser still and use a pair of long needle nose pliers to push (feed) the hose down into the hole. Make sure it comes out the other side by about 1/4 inch to insure it is in and stable. reinstall the unit and bezel. Most of my time was spent feeding the short water tube back in place. You will see just how much room there is between the dispenser and the door before you pull the water tube from the unit. In this case you can judge if it will be too complicated for you before you go any further.

My son and I did it together. I was able to copy and paste the parts diagram on your website and we were able to go step by step following that diagram.We first shut the power to the refrigerator.We then removed the tray and the pad with buttons on the exterior of the fridge. We then unsnapped the electrical plug and were able to tilt the casing that holds the actuator. We removed the old one, and snapped the new one into place.We plugged it in and then proceeded to replace everything. Voila....we now have water again, all for the price of the part...Great!!!

Support studs have an expansion fitting - center post has to be pushed through to allow expansion joint to collapse for removal. After installation, this post can be pushed in or pulled out to secure the stud and be the proper length to hold the bins.

None of this was obvious - an online tip from another member was invaluable.

Replaced the Triple Water Valve

It was simple. I loosened the two screws holding the ice maker unit. Then disconnected the wire harness. Plug in the new ice maker and tighten down the two screws. Held reset button for 15 sec. Done! took ten min. I had a full try of ice the next day!

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

The repair was just as easy as ordering the part which arrived on day three after I ordered it! I had already cleaned up the broken glass insert, so all I had to do was unpack and lay the new shelf in. Took less than a minute!