GLHS39EJPB0 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

I pulled out all the screws and from the freezer side and remove the panel, then I located the thermostat snap the old one out and put the new one in.

I followed the other instruction listed.

1. Took off the outer cover and water drip tray.
2. Took off the outer circuit board (DID NOT DISCONNECT it)
3. Disconnected the black paddle holder, but DID NOT DISCONNECT the water tube.
4. As I did not disconnect the water tube I had to very slightly east it PARTIALLY out.
5. There are two screws that hold the sides of the paddle legs in. To rempve these screws I used a phillips screwdriver.
6. After removing these two screws you can remove the broken water actuator.
7. There is a small plastic aligning tip on the left hand side wher the metal covers sit on the actuator fiengers. NOTE THIS NEEDS TO BE REMOVED as I could not get the left actuator fienger to pop over it. I removed it with a needle nose pliers. After removing the tip the actuator poped right into its slot.
8. You cannot hold the two screws and the covers so I used a little piece of chewing gum to hold the cover to the screw and the screw to the screwdriver. It worked great.
9. Then I put the unit back together in reverse order... it functioned better than before.

Removed 4 screws holding face plate onto ice bucket. Removed the 3 screws holding the ice crusher housing. Noted postion and rotation of teh s;ring loaded ice selecting rod. Removed broken crusher housing. Reveresed process for installion. Took for test drive. Operational...

The repair was easy. The problem was the lack of explanation. This may help other customers. I was told by the virtual trouble shooting system that about 30% of the cure was to replace the water filter and 70% was to replace the water valve. I did both and still had the problem. People need to be told why they have to replace the water valve. The reason is this. The valve has a very small leak in it that lets water continue to flow into the freezer compartment drop by drop. Eventually, this freezes and clogs the hole , so no water can pass and thus no ice can be made.In either your web site or another they stated that it may freeze up here, but there was no connection to the water valve.It seemed like it was another topic. Its very hard to see the frozen area, unless you remove it from the freezer area. I wish I was TOLD TO DO THIS, after i replaced the valve It would have saved me a repair bill. I hope this helps others.
Take care-Bill

Unscrewed the water line cover. Removed the platic case around the water filter base. Everything went well until I tried to remove the two water hoses. After I finally figured out that I had to push in the release washer while pulling the hoses out, things went well. Unfortunately it took several hours of wasted time and several searches on the internet to finally figure this part out. From there on out it went smoothly. Old base came out with two screws. Reversed process for reinstall of new base. Water hoses just slipped back into place and locked themselves in. Just takes a little patience.

The symptom was a fried power board located in the freezer door behind the ice/water dispenser. Replacing the board was fairly easy. However, the new board also cooked soon thereafter. I discovered that the root cause for this failure was a failed diode Part Number 5303918287. The diode is located in the wiring near the three water solenoids in the rear (lower right) where the water enters the unit. Unless the diode is also replaced, the board will fail again.
Replacement of these components is fairly easy. One trick that work well for me during re-assembly was to use a long wood screw to thread up through the water dispenser panel and into the end of the water tube, and then pull on the screw head to gently feed the tube down into the dispenser.

The radiator was not being properly defrosted and the refrigerator and freezer could not keep the temperature. Two things can be causing this, the defrost module which defrost the refrigerator on a regular basis ($110) or the thermostat ($18). I tried the thermostat since it is very easy to do (remove cover plate inside the freezer, cut wires of old thermostat, connect new thermostat by stripping wires. Presto...however the thermostat was NOT the problem. The problem was a blown timer circuit board that controls the regular defrosting. That repair was done by a technician. The board was $110, it seats inside the refrigerator in the control panel area.

Unplug turn water off
Removed two screws with nut driver loosen one
Disconnected three solenoid valves
Disconnected four water lines
Plug tubing in, tighten one flare fitting
Reattach wires to solenoids
Slide under loose screw, replace two screws
Turn water on check for leaks plug in get a drink of water

Loosen two screws, unclip electrical connection, remove ice maker, remove l shaped leveling piece of metal from old one, put on new one. Install in reverse order. Hint.. when loosening two screws, use a mirror

The door has nylon gear teeth that wore out and needed replaced. The ice chute came off very easy with 6 screws. I used a punch and pliers to remove the hinge pin. Then the door came off and the new one put on. Very easy. The part was ordered on Sunday and arrived on Tuesday.

Test the light socket first with a bulb that you know is good. If the light still does not come on, unplug the refrigerator, remove the switch by inserting a very small, thin, flathead screwdriver alongside it and pull the switch out slowly with your other hand. There are two wires there. Remove them gently with some needle nose pliers. If you want to test to see if the switch is defective, take a insulated jumper wire, and attach it between the two wires. Plug the refrigerator back in and see if the light comes on. If the light does come on, replace with a new switch by re-attaching the wires and placing it back in the hole firmly.

Unpluged the item. Turned off the water source. Removed the card board cover. Dis-connected the water hoses. Unpluged the connetors. Matched up the colores and put it back together, very easy. Everythings was color coded.

Just pushed the button along side the filter and it popped out in my hand. I unpacked the new filter module and inserted it. It was necessary to run water through the dispenser for a couple of minutes to purge the air and clear the lines. The modular filter assembly is more expenseve than some but the ease of replacement makes the cost a good value.

The tray at the bottome of the "in door" unit pulls straight out. I then removed the 3 screws at the bottom, shifted the cover upwards...and removed it from the fridge door. You then have to remove the green circuit board to get at the actuator. The tricky part is the water line feed...there's not much slack at all and it's hard to get at. I ended up removing the entire assembly to put the new actuator on. When it came time to reassemble...I disconnected the 4 wire connectors (two brown, an orange, and I forget the other) so I could have enough room for my fingers to grab the water line and insert it back. The connectors were easy to reconnet w/ needle nose plyers. (make sure you diagram them before you remove...so they can be reattached correctly). Putting it back together was pretty easy. It all works...lights, buttons, etc. so I must have done it right.

Removed (unsnapped) plastic cover from back of refrigerator ( inside freezer compartment), determined that the fan was not turning, removed 4 screws from the aluminum back plate in freezer and tilted it down. Removed 2 screws with a nut driver, this allowed the fan to be removed, unpluged fan motor from the bace of the freezer and removed fan. Installed new motor and spent $38.00 to repair the refrigerator that would have cost me severial hundred dollars to replace. Thanks for the help