FLSC238DB0 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

The repair was just as easy as ordering the part which arrived on day three after I ordered it! I had already cleaned up the broken glass insert, so all I had to do was unpack and lay the new shelf in. Took less than a minute!

Replaced the top crisper drawer frame. Installation was very easy. The hardest part was cleaning all of the spilled food/liquid items from under the drawers once removed to replace the top frame. I will keep the top frame and repair it. From what I have read, this is a very common problem as there is no support in the middle of the frame...it is only plastic.

Looked at video on how to remove and reinstall support and followed the instruct ions

Support studs have an expansion fitting - center post has to be pushed through to allow expansion joint to collapse for removal. After installation, this post can be pushed in or pulled out to secure the stud and be the proper length to hold the bins.

None of this was obvious - an online tip from another member was invaluable.

First I obtained the manual to the refrigerator. I identified the screws to be removed. I turned off the water then unplugged the water lines. I then replaced the Water Filter Base and reassemble the parts. Within minutes of turning on the water, water and ice making had returned. I was a hero for saving the family $200 in parts and labor.

It was simple. I loosened the two screws holding the ice maker unit. Then disconnected the wire harness. Plug in the new ice maker and tighten down the two screws. Held reset button for 15 sec. Done! took ten min. I had a full try of ice the next day!

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

Popped out glass, pulled up and the front of cover and pulled froward. Pushed new cover back on to studs and pushed down on cover to lock it to front studs. Put glass on top of new cover. About 3 min total to make repair.

Removed the fridge door, replaced plastic Hinge Bearing, re-attached door. WhaLa - No more clicking!

I followed the past suggestions and I opened the parts list to understand what was where. Caution when removing the face plate. The flat white connector pulls out easierly. It can be plugged back in after. I have big hands so it was hard to connect the water back to the unit. Other wise it went ok.
OH , make sure to unplug the refrigirator. I touch the control board and got snapped.

Removed Water drip tray, Then removed (3) screws holding the cover in place. Removed (3) more screws holding the circuit board in place. pulled out ribbon cable from the circuit board which is connected to cover, and put aside.
Tried to remove screws holding actuator in place, but it was a bit tight,,wish i would have tried to un-plug the connector on the left side first, but did not, i instead removed the water tube to gain better access,,,,replacing actuator was easy, re-attaching water tube was not simple at all,, but if you do end up pulling it out,,,do not waste time trying to pull it back thru, it is not nessasary, and impossible to do,,the end is tapered, and makes a pressure seal, so it will not leak,,,re-attached screws, ribbon cable, cover, and drip tray,,and done.

I had to remove the face cover to gain access to the ribbon harness, also had to remove the push pads The ribbon is a delicate item so care had to be taken not to bend the ends. The ribbon can fit either side so getting it in place to make contact was kind of tricky. After the ribbon was in, it just a matter of putting things back together. Dispenser is fixed at a minimum cost, ribbon was shipped within 2 days which was great. Thanks to Part Select for easy to find on the net, had a complete diagram of the refrigerator ice/water dispenser so finding the parts needed was simple. Doug

I unplugged the refrigerator and removed the back panel in the freezer. Here the coils were covered in a block of heavy frost. The coils needed to defrost, I allowed this to happen of the course of a few hours. Once this was done I used the wire cutters, cutting the two wires to the thermostat. Doing this I checked the continuity & got no reading. Having ordered the part at a more than reasonable price including 2 day delivery, I was ready to complete the repair. Stripping the thermostat wires connected the the freezer unit, I attached the two wires color to color to the new thermostat. Here I needed to insert both ends into the connector (butt end), crimping both sides. Making sure each end I'd secure. Do this for both sets of wires. Placing the new thermostat back on the the cooper coil (on the same one it was removed from), put the freezer back in place. Here I only screwed in two, in case I need to go back in. I plugged the refrigerator back in turn the settings back to default or factory. Allowed the refrigerator to come back up to temperature for 24-48 hours. I did these and I'm glad to say my 12 year refrigerator is working just like before.

The door clunk problem was as others described. Repair similar to others described. The major thing to understand which I didn't see listed elsewhere is whether the top or bottom little nylon toothed cam is broken. This part is the one in the door. There was also one in the hinge, PS976594 or PS430814 ? I ordered this one and was lucky that it was correct. I'm not sure whether it's possible to know whether door side or hinge side is broken, without removing the door to see.

Pulled the unit out from the wall and with a flat head screwdriver and a utility knife I replaced the valve assembly. It was no problem at all.