FRT21FD3AW3 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Just had to pop the old pieces out, assemble the new ones, and pop them in. Very easy. Anyone can do it.

Looked up similar problems and found it to be the defrost timer. All I had to do was remove the plastic portion in the fridge section to get to the old timer. Popped the new one in and put it back together. Works great now. Would have been almost $150 to have a repair company come out and fix it.

But I have back ground mechanical skills, I did see the video one time, and everything went smooth......

Looked it up on how to, follow the video
. Very easy 1-2-3 it was out and new one in..........??.

Super easy fix! Used flathead screwdriver to start corner of gasket, then just pulled it out with my hands. Cleaned the track and surrounding area with a rag and some windex. Started in top right corner with new gasket and just worked my way around the door until it was fully seated in track. Done! Only thing I would do differently next time would be to start at the bottom when installing new gasket, just so I could have better sight and leverage at the end.

I watched and followed the instructions on YouTube ?? very easy

I removed the housing at the top of the refrigerator compartment that contained the reefer light and temperature adjustment knob. This required a small nut-driver. Inside, I found the old defrost control, unplugged it, unscrewed it with a Phillips screwdriver, and replaced it with the replacement part. Then I replaced the housing to its original position.

Removed the screws on the piece holding the switch which is at the front of the ceiling of the refrigerator box. Removed the old switch and replaced it. Very simple repair.

Removed the housing with the light, 4 hexhead screws. This exposed the defrost timer, removed 2 hexhead screws, electrical connector and reassembled the unit.

Great resource and service, thank you.

First I removed the plastic grill (pulled out, no screws) from bottom of refrigerator, then I removed electrical plug & two screws from old timer (timer located on the front inside left lower side of refrigerator). Installed in reverse order.

The center door hinge was still attached to the refridgerator so I only had to install the bottom and top hinges. I also moved the door handles to the other side so the doors open the "right" way. The hinges were just 2 bolts and 3 screws. Now, just if the repair man from our home warrentee company would show up to fix the refridgerator. It's blowing hot air!!!

First removed existing damaged shelf retainer bar and end caps from freezer door. Next cut down new oversized retainer bar to size with hack saw. Then slightly opened up doubled over metal at each end of retainer bar with pliers and screw driver in order to create the small "nicks" that are needed to house the "bumps" that secure the retainer bar to end caps. Used tin snips for this. Next inserted new end caps and used pliers to crimp secure. Clipped in new assembly in freezer door.

Remove ice pan below ice maker. Got mirrow verifed the type of screws. Obtained nut driver and felt it at right angle remove screws only have way. The ice maker lifts up and off. Took needle nose pliers to grip and remove electrical connection plug. The instruction and picture sent was no help the picture were the size of a thumb nail no detail could be determine. I installed the adapter plug and all the extra length wiring was the most difficult to type wrap with both hands extended out in front. I finally wrestled it in on to the two screws unscrewed from the wall about 1/2". Keep the ice maker water lever up and ensure it aligns to the water trough inlet. Works Great.
glg

After pulling the fridge away from the wall and opening the paper backing on the bottom, I could see the motor. It's affixed to 3 metal ribs by 3 small screw/nuts. There is also a 12" wiring harness that led to a simple disconnect. Removing the disconnect and the 3 nuts was easy. However, there was no room to remove the motor with the fan attached. Between frame parts, the drip pan below, the ribs, and small, delicate copper tubing that can't get bent, it wouldn't fit thru any openings. So we rotated the motor inside the framework until the blade faced out, then reached in with a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the washer. Removing the washer is easy, it's just difficult to reach. With the washer off the fan was out of the way and very carefully (it was tight) the motor came out. Reverse was the same issue. Motor tight going in, not a lot of room to maneuver fan onto motor, and needed needle nose to tighten washer again. Make sure you tighten the washer before you install the motor on the prongs. Otherwise you need to remove it from the ribs, twist it to face you, then reinstall it on the prongs. Also, I felt I was stripping the nuts into the new motor. Turns out the holes in the motor aren't tapped. i realized the nuts are self tapping once I looked at them. I'm a big time DIYer and this wasn't bad at all. If your motor/fan assembly comes out whole, it's even easier.

I watched the video on how to change the defrost thermostat. I removed the back cover inside the freezer then I pulled off the old defrost thermostat and then using a pair of wire cutters I cut it off and then bared a little of both of the wires and then slid the heat sherink and wire connectors on the existing wires and then slid the other ends of the wires into the wire connectors then crimped the ends of the connectors and then tried using heat on the heat shrinks but still used rubber electric tape over it. I clipped the new thermostat were the old one was and then reattached the freezer wall cover and plugged the refrigerator back in. 24 hours later I checked the temperature in the refrigerator and freezer and both are running a lot colder.