SRDE520TW-P1312401WW Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed old agitator unit - 4 nut-head screws removed, and installed new agitator and screws aligned easily.

Removed two screws on original ice bucket auger front panel-removed old ice auger assembly from old ice bucket and installed new auger assembly in new ice basket.Replaced ice auger/bucket front panel with the two screws and we now have a working ice dispensing unit and uncracked ice bucket

Removed Ice carrier and diassembled the Ice carrier with a socket set. Four screws, cap came right off. Placed the new one on and finished.

More than anything else the service that has been provided here is second to none. In the futher if parts are needed I'll stop by and see you again.

I simply went to PartSelect and ordered a new kick-plate from the illustrated parts catalog. A few days later it arrived via FedEx and was easily installed within about five minutes. The clips that hold the part to the front of the refrigerator, push on over plastic tabs on the back of the kick-plate. They were packaged separately and at first were very tight and uncooperative. I placed a small socket over the end of the tab and gently tapped each clip it into place with a small hammer. One word of caution, the metal clips are very sharp. It was only after I finished the installation did I notice that I had apparently cut my index finger during the process. Nothing serious, but probably avoidable had I been more aware of the sharp edges.

The hardest part was getting the unit out of the refrigerator because the split caused it to drop down when it filled with ice while we were on vacation. After the ice I had to give the bucket a firm jerk to remove it. Then it was just a matter of replacing the old bucket with the new one using a phillips screw driver.

I removed the ice tray from the freeze. Turn over and remove screws holding the face plate on. Remove the 4 screws holding the crushing mechanism in place. Pull the entire mechanism out and remove the nut holding the blades together. Remember the alignment of the blades. Remove blades and then the pastic crush wheel. Replace in reverse order. Very easy.

I did not do the repair yet, there is no schematic on how to route the hose; also no description of how to do the routing/connections.

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!

Disconncted power, pulled plug on disconnect, loosened 3 ice maker attach screws, removed ice maker. carefully removed old broken part, to understand reasembly. Reinstalled new water fill & bearing part.. hung icemaker and tightened attach screws. Reattached electrical plug.. turned on power, it all worked. .took about 45 min to remove, 15 min to reinstall. Right tools needed re disassembly AND ASSEMBLY

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

First I pulled the fridge out from the wall and turned off the water supply. Next I removed the access panel on the bottom front of the fridge. Located behind the panel was the water supply line for the water dispenser in the door which has a disconnect the I simply unscrewed so that I would be able to lift the door off of the bottom hinge. Next I took one screw out of the top hinge cover to access three small bolts and disconnect the electrical connections to the door. After removing the bolts I lifted the door off and took out the small screw holding in the bottom cam and replaced with the new one. After reinstalling door I removed all the small bolts holding on the freezer gasket. After this the gasket easily pulls out and began installing the new gasket. This part of the job was the most time consuming. After I had the gasket back behind the pinch rail I began reinstalling the bolts. Since the gasket was bent during shipping I simply took a hair dryer to the slightly bent parts of the gasket to get them to lay flat. Freezer now has a great seal and stays closed when refrigerator door is being shut.

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

Took auger apart laid out sequence as removed parts replace the same way . Parts have to go back like they were removed.

Take out the elbow fill tube and check to see if ice build up inside tube. Clean tube of ice build up. Replace tube back in. In my case that corrected my problem.