SRD526TW-P1313401WW Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the top hinge cover with Philips screwdriver. Removed the three bolts holding the top hinge in place. Removed the top hinge, and lifted the door off the remains of the lower hinge. Unbolted the remnants of the lower hinge closure mechanism and replaced it with the new set. Reassembled the door on the lower hinge, and then replaced and bolted back on the top hinge. Door back to full working order in less than fifteen minutes.

The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

I was thrilled to find this part. Just took out the deli drawer shelf, removed the old broken frame, and installed the new frame onto the shelf with the old screws (glad I kept them). If I hadn't found this part I would have had to give up the handy and much-used deli drawer. Thank you!

I removed the ice tray from the freeze. Turn over and remove screws holding the face plate on. Remove the 4 screws holding the crushing mechanism in place. Pull the entire mechanism out and remove the nut holding the blades together. Remember the alignment of the blades. Remove blades and then the pastic crush wheel. Replace in reverse order. Very easy.

I did not do the repair yet, there is no schematic on how to route the hose; also no description of how to do the routing/connections.

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

First I pulled the fridge out from the wall and turned off the water supply. Next I removed the access panel on the bottom front of the fridge. Located behind the panel was the water supply line for the water dispenser in the door which has a disconnect the I simply unscrewed so that I would be able to lift the door off of the bottom hinge. Next I took one screw out of the top hinge cover to access three small bolts and disconnect the electrical connections to the door. After removing the bolts I lifted the door off and took out the small screw holding in the bottom cam and replaced with the new one. After reinstalling door I removed all the small bolts holding on the freezer gasket. After this the gasket easily pulls out and began installing the new gasket. This part of the job was the most time consuming. After I had the gasket back behind the pinch rail I began reinstalling the bolts. Since the gasket was bent during shipping I simply took a hair dryer to the slightly bent parts of the gasket to get them to lay flat. Freezer now has a great seal and stays closed when refrigerator door is being shut.

Disconncted power, pulled plug on disconnect, loosened 3 ice maker attach screws, removed ice maker. carefully removed old broken part, to understand reasembly. Reinstalled new water fill & bearing part.. hung icemaker and tightened attach screws. Reattached electrical plug.. turned on power, it all worked. .took about 45 min to remove, 15 min to reinstall. Right tools needed re disassembly AND ASSEMBLY

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

Removed the broken grille kickplate. (Just pulls right off) Tried to put the new clips on the new grill kickplate. Didn't want to go on without alot of force. Didn't want to crack the new part. So...I heated up the metal clips and placed them (used pliers-too hot to handle) on the place that held the clips and they slid right on and believe me...they won't come off either. Put the grille kickplate on the bottom section of the refrigerator and snapped right on.
Everything looks good.

Just plugged it in

Took auger apart laid out sequence as removed parts replace the same way . Parts have to go back like they were removed.