ABD2533DEB2 Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

I loosened the two top screws, removed the bottom screw, lifted up on ice maker and slid it off, unplugged the wire from refrig. I transfered the wire to the new icemaker, pluged it back in, placed it on the two screws, installed lower screw, tighten top screws. Total time spent less than 15 minutes. The ice maker cost $125.00 with freight. Sears wanted $374.00

Took a putty knife and
Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place

first I removed the panels to see if the coils were getting frosty . Then I noticed that the fan was not spinning. I tested voltage to the fan and it was hot. I ordered the new fan put it in placve and, voila!.
Fixed my fride for under 50 bucks

First turned off the water at the valve. Next I undid the 5 screws holding the plate that holds the pump. Next disconnected the power connectors, then the water lines. Next undid the screw holding the pump, removed pump. Next, mounted the new pump to the plate, this was tricky because it has to fit kind of upside down, so you have to wrangle it into the proper position then align the screw hole. Next, secured it to the plate with the screw, re-connected the water lines, then the power. Before mounting it back to the fridge, I tested to see if it worked, well, it didn't. My heart sank. I re-checked all connections, I redid the entire process, disconnected and re-connected and still did not work. I researched the problem online and someone posted maybe the water filter might be clogged or defective. So I removed the water filter and put the stop plug in, and it worked perfectly. I went and exchanged the filter and plugged it in and still had the same problem. I am now suspecting the filter receptacle is the fault, but we will do without that for the time being. But the pressure is much better so changing the pump was still necessary. All in all a very interesting repair. I learned a lot about how the system works and now I need to replace the damper, it is very noisy.

Pop loose the plastic grate at the bottom.

Locate and remove the wheel leveling screw from the front bottom corner.

Remove cotter pin from the pin that mounts the wheel assembly to the refrigerator. Tap out the mounting pin.

Lift out the wheel assembly.

Remove the Roller pin from the wheel assembly. I used a Dremel tool with a cutting disk. A hack saw will also probably work.

Install the new roller pin and wheel into the wheel assembly. Use a hammer or vice to peen over the end of the roller pin.

Reinstall and adjust wheel assembly.

(1) Removed the three screws which attached the ice maker to the freezing compartmnet wall in refrigerator; (2) Disconnected the power to the old ice maker; (3) Removed the old ice maker from the freezing compartment of the refrigerator; (4) Took the white front cover off of the old ice maker; (5) Disconnected the wiring harness from the old ice maker; (6) Removed the "ice making-stop arm" from the old ice maker; (7) Placed the items taken from old ice maker on to the new ice maker; (8) Reconnected the new ice maker to the power; (9) Placed the new ice maker in the proper position in freezing compartment of refrigerator and replaced the three screws. JOB DONE!

I watched the video provided on-line in your website, which was excellent. The information provided gave me everything I needed to change the board. I already had experience handling control boards and was aware of the static precautions; however, your paperwork was very good detailing how to program the new board. The only small problem I had was reinstalling the temp sensor in its bracket. The lead was very short. Other than that, all went well! The project took between 20 and 30 minutes.

It is simple, unscrew the old screw in the new one.

Lower the filter bottom housing to gain access to the filter. Unscrew the filter and install the bypass cap. Secure the lower filter housing to the top assembly.

Went on line to find replacement valve.
Received the new part and compared to broken part. Both the same.
CAREFULLY removed the broken valve. Paying attention to how it came off.
CAREFULLY put it on the same way it came off.
This is a plug and play part. Just had to reconnect the water line.
Saved at least 75 dollars.
Easy to find the part on your site.

Received the union I ordered, then discovered that the tubes were different sizes, so I had the wrong part. I had read elsewhere that it was necessary to trim the two ends of the tubes with a box cutter to stop the leaks - I did this, and the leaking stopped. I was then able to go to a local hardware store and get a 5/16 to 1/4 union and replace it. The leaking is stopped, and the water supply in the door is now working like new. No problem with partselect, but I did buy a caliper so that I can check tube diameters if I ever have a similar problem! This is a great site to find instructions - well worth the time to search!

I watched video for repair and it went just like it showed. piece of cake

Replaced the electronics board. Fairly easy job. Video helped enormously. Programing is awkward.

Removed the top door hinge cover.
Remover the four 12mm hex screws.
Lifted empty door off bottem hinge support.
Removed old door closure.
Put some silicon lub on the new closure and installed.
Reversed the removal steps.

But this did not fix the problem. Will have to remove the door and inspect the inside of the door's lower hinge assembly.

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.