36795E-P1152603WE Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

Repair man wanted $240.00 to fix this problem. I simply removed panel from bottom of back of refrigerator and disconnected two screws and the water and the part was free reconnected water and the two screws and done deal with a $40.00 part.

Followed the YouTube video linked to the Compressor Start Device and Capacitor I purchased. The repair was just as easy as the technician in the video said it would be. Removed the back panel, remove the clamp, worked the Compressor Start Device and Capacitor off the electrical prongs and replace it with the new one. After I reassemble the refrigerator, it was fully operational. Very easy to do and only required a few tools.

Replaced the part--
Door snaps loudly everytime it's opened or closed.
Correct replacement part and lubed with vaseline,

Removed back access cover with quarter inch nut driver, unplugged wire harness, pulled old relay out & plugged in new one, reconnected wire harness, and reinstalled access cover. Piece of cake. (Shipping was very quick) ***Frig was only 3yr an 1 mounth old.*** Maytag - Dependable Huh?

Removed Ice bucket. Removed two screws and removed front cover from old ice bucket, two more screws under cover to remove ice agitator. Installed ice agitator to new ice bucket, installed two screws holding it. Installed ice bucket front cover on new ice bucket with two screws. Put new ice bucket into freezer. Finished! That was easy!

First I ordered the ice maker, but not the wiring harness...didn't fix the problem so I ordered a wiring harness, but ordered the wrong one...so I emailed parts select and got a prompt response on how to return the mistake and which part I actually needed. It was a "special order" but got in within days. Wonderful service!

I removed the front cover--just popped off with no trouble. Removed 2 screws at the bottom. Slid the broken part out and put the new one in place. Put in the two screws, replaced the fron cover AND Done!!!
BTW I am a 65 year old woman and the icemaker is like new.

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

While ordering the assembly, I had thought that the ice bucket was included but it wasn't. So I ordered the ice bucket afterwards. Maybe a little more clarity as far as what parts come in the whole assembly would save some time. All in all, the agitator was very easy to install, along with the ice bucket. After securing the agitator to the existing assembly with two screws, the ice bucket slipped right into place. Easy to install.

1. Unplugged the power cord 2. Took back cover off 3. Disconnected the wires to the valve 4. Disconnected the water plastic lines 5. Took the water valve out by removing (2) screws that hold it to the frame. 6. Installed the new water valve and folled the steps backwards. Working great and making a lot of ice !!!

As the prior stories mentioned, this was a fairly easy fix to a nagging problem. Heck, we almost bought a new refer over this, cuz the door would keep popping open.

Needed a screwdriver, and a 5/16" nut driver (mounted in elec. drill). Have two people for this one! Emptying the door would help out tons too. ('course, I didn't do that!)

With the door closed, remove the plastic cover on top by removing 1 phyllips screw. Then, using drill mounted 5/16" nut driver, remove 3 hinge screws. Remove hing by lifting up. Now, carefully open and remove the door. Here is where the 2nd person comes in. There are 2-3 1/4" screws (Must use a 1/4' NUT DRIVER, SOCKET OR MAGNETIC BIT HOLDER) on the bottom of the door to remove the broken plastic cam. Also, you must remove the bad cam from the bottom hinge using I believe the 1/4" nut driver.

Finally , one person lift the door while the other kneels on the floor to help giude the door back onto the bottom hing pin. Close the door, ensuring that the top of the doors are even, and secure the 3 top hinge screws. UR done!

Greg

turn off water and unplug fridge. remove ice maker bottom mounting screw. just loosen the 2 top mounting screws. unplug wire harness from back of fridge. remove old icemaker from freezer compartment. once removed, salvage square endcover and reinstall on new maker. unfasten wire harness from old maker and reinsatll on new one. reinsert thermal wire in new ice maker holding bracket. remove second wiring bracket and reinstall on new maker to hold remaining wires (not mentioned on "how to-" video). remove old ice maker on/off bale and reinstall on new one. remount new maker to top mounting screws, reinsert harness plug into fridge. replace bottom screw,

Took the rear bottom panel loose , the ice maker and water dipenser valve is in the right corner. Turn off water line to the refrigerator , and also unplug the electric from the outlet. It is easier to take the ground wire loose from the valve bracket now , before taking valve out of the bracket. take the two water lines that run to the door and the ice maker loose, then remove the main inlet line. Once you have the water lines off, then you can remove both electrical plugs from the electric coils. The water lines that run to the door and the ice maker cant be confused , because they are two different sizes , so they will only fit the correct side. The electrical plugs are pretty simple as well as, the wires are the same color as the coils, so its fairly easy to see which one goes where. The replacement process is pretty self-explanitary , just reverse the order. Just as a hint of advice , have a sponge or mop ready to clean up the water that comes out of the lines when you remove them. I also changed the drum wheel in the front of the ice bin, this process is not easy if you let the blades and spacers fall apart , as they have to pretty much have to be in correct order , or your ice bin will not crush ice , and you could possibly bust the bin into pieces. The process is not really hard , just pay close attention to what is coming off from where!!! There are two bolt on the bottom of the front cover , take them loose and pull the cover forward from the bottom, then lift a little , should come off. Then the metal front cover should be exposed, ther are two bolts in it as well , remove them , and the front should be loose , this is when you hold the auger and keep an eye on the blades. There is also a nut , right in the center of the wheel you have to take loose , hold the auger then take the nut loose with a 1/2 in. wrench. Once you remove the nut the drum pulls right off the auger. When going back together , make sure the ice crusher blades all line up correctly , as the blades wont work at all . They have to slide back into the blade pivot bracket (slot made into the plastic bucket front). As I said before , be sure and pay close attention , and this process will go easily. The drum is marked front side , or this side out, be sure its installed correctly , as the ice will not feed right. The first cycle of the ice maker making ice will probably be only 1 or 2 cubes , but the second time around you will have a full set of 8 , the water lines get air in them while they are unhooked so you wont get a full cycle the first time.

I have replaced the circuit board, the condenser fan motor but the unit still will not feeze correctly. The bottom of the unit freezes but just barely cools the rest of the freezer and ice box. Have you got any other advice that might help. This is a side by side unit. What else could be the problem. It seems that the fan is not working correctly or it is stuck in defrost mode. The coils where the fan is seem to be icing up but it will not let the fan work. THanks for your help, David Wilson

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.