ASD2620HRS Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed door. Removed old cam closure assembly. Noticed that there was almost nothing inside the door for screw to screw into(only styrofoam insulation), which is why original screw backed out. Bad design. Got longer screw at bigger diameter. Pushed high strength glue into hole, on screw threads, and underneath screw head. Assembled. Crossed fingers. About three weeks have passed and so far, so good.

Took a putty knife and
Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place

It is simple, unscrew the old screw in the new one.

Lower the filter bottom housing to gain access to the filter. Unscrew the filter and install the bypass cap. Secure the lower filter housing to the top assembly.

Popping out the broken switch was easy once I was able to see how the new switch part was engineered. The switch was made to be replaced, having a simple tension hook on the bottom of the switch which needed to be depressed to pull the switch out of the cabinet. Once pulled out, there were modular plugs for the power line that were easy to pull off the broken switch and plug into the new switch. Pop the new switch back in and VOILA, the lights worked again! Thanks to part select's good diagrams of the actual model of my refrigerator, it was very easy to hone in on the exact part I needed. I did notice one problem with the order as the correct series for the part was displayed earlier in the process, but had the wrong series later in the process. However,. I trusted the system and the part is for the right series and fit well (an exact match, down to the color). Thanks Part Select, I would definitely use you again.

Received the union I ordered, then discovered that the tubes were different sizes, so I had the wrong part. I had read elsewhere that it was necessary to trim the two ends of the tubes with a box cutter to stop the leaks - I did this, and the leaking stopped. I was then able to go to a local hardware store and get a 5/16 to 1/4 union and replace it. The leaking is stopped, and the water supply in the door is now working like new. No problem with partselect, but I did buy a caliper so that I can check tube diameters if I ever have a similar problem! This is a great site to find instructions - well worth the time to search!

removed the old valve from back of fridge by removing screws that held mounting plate. removed water lines by pushing in on quick connects and pulling hoses out. A little different type of connections. installed new valve and pushed hoses into connections making sure that they snaped in. reinstalled screws and checked for leaks. took about 15 minutes!

I searched in line for a replacement fill valve and easily found it on your site w/ excellent diagrams. I turned off the frig., & the part came out simply and logically first removing the 5 screws that hold it in w/ a nut driver. Then remove the supply water line and the other quick connect lines that feed the ice maker and the chilled water dispenser. Then, disconnect the two wire harnesses that clip off easily by hand. They feed the two relays in the valve and are color coded. Remove the valve and reverse the procedure to hook it back up. Note: a little water will come out of the lines so be ready w/ a small bowl and a dish towel. After installing the new part, it was necessary to "bleed" the water lines of air by drawing a few glasses of water from the water dispenser to get the system operating normally again. One tool, common sense, 30 minutes. Probably saved $150 + on a repair man plus parts markup. Thanks very much!!

grille just pushed on no tools were needed and I just took out the cracked bucket and inserted the new one

followed the instructions provided and that's it!

pop open, unscrew quarter turn, screw new one in quarter turn, pop shut. duh

Very simple. Matched female plugs with respective male color coded prong; pushed together then inserted unit in slot of freezer sidewall and rotated into position...job done.

The ice maker panel on the freezer door detaches by removing two screens at the bottom of the panel behind the drip tray. My son held the panel while I removed three screws holding the ice chute cover. The ice chute door is attached to a spring loaded bracket. I only needed the actual door, but it was just as easy to replace the insulation and the seal. The seal was starting to show wear. I then replaced the ice chute cover and tested the ice maker. With everything working correctly, I reinstalled the panel in the door.

Unscrewed back of fridge and unplugged relay from compressor and plugged in the new one remember that the new one turns 180 degrees from existing switch.

Plied off the relay switch with a screw driver. I could not pull it off by hand. Disconnected the wires to it and replaced with new part. Had problem getting the part back on and lining up the pins with the connector. I had to line up one pin and start at an angle and roll the part onto the contact pins.
I was impressed with the one day delivery without paying because it was shipped from a warehouse in California where the repair was made.