AC2224GEKB Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

Had to disassemble ice maker to install part. . .

While ordering the assembly, I had thought that the ice bucket was included but it wasn't. So I ordered the ice bucket afterwards. Maybe a little more clarity as far as what parts come in the whole assembly would save some time. All in all, the agitator was very easy to install, along with the ice bucket. After securing the agitator to the existing assembly with two screws, the ice bucket slipped right into place. Easy to install.

The good news is that the part (the wheel was available.) I bought two in the event that the other wheel may break in the future. The bad news is that the housing that holds the wheel was riveted together by the wheel axle. It would have been nice to know that before I bought the part and if the housing with the wheel installed was available. The refrigerator was at my summer house a hundred miles away. Anyway, we had to grind the end of the riveted axle to dislodge it from the wheel housing. With the axle dislodged from the housing we were able to install the wheel and then hammer the end of the axle flat to keep in place, like the original rivet installation. It is not perfect but it held and should be fine. I am glad I was able to get the part and will be back in the future, if in need of other parts.

As the prior stories mentioned, this was a fairly easy fix to a nagging problem. Heck, we almost bought a new refer over this, cuz the door would keep popping open.

Needed a screwdriver, and a 5/16" nut driver (mounted in elec. drill). Have two people for this one! Emptying the door would help out tons too. ('course, I didn't do that!)

With the door closed, remove the plastic cover on top by removing 1 phyllips screw. Then, using drill mounted 5/16" nut driver, remove 3 hinge screws. Remove hing by lifting up. Now, carefully open and remove the door. Here is where the 2nd person comes in. There are 2-3 1/4" screws (Must use a 1/4' NUT DRIVER, SOCKET OR MAGNETIC BIT HOLDER) on the bottom of the door to remove the broken plastic cam. Also, you must remove the bad cam from the bottom hinge using I believe the 1/4" nut driver.

Finally , one person lift the door while the other kneels on the floor to help giude the door back onto the bottom hing pin. Close the door, ensuring that the top of the doors are even, and secure the 3 top hinge screws. UR done!

Greg

I searched the internet for the correct part and reviewed the instructions on the internet. Upon ordering the correct part I was provided a link to a video that walked me through step by step. The very first thing I did was unplug the refrigerator.I then located the control board located in the housing in the ceiling of the refrigerator. Using a screwdriver I was able to carefully separate the housing from the refrigerator ceiling . Unplugged the housing and then had to separate the plastic housing to locate the control board. Ran into a little difficulty at first separating the plastic tabs but with a screwdriver carefully pried the tabs. Once completely open is where the control board was. More plastic tabs holding the control board in place. Carefully separated the board from the tabs. The were two plugs that needed to be separated from the board. Used a screwdriver to get the plugs separated.The new board you had to bend carefully at a joint so the board became two pieces. Snapped the boards in place. Plugged the board in two spots. Put the housing together and put the housing in place in the refrigerator. Plugged the refrigerator in. All lights came on and then had to program the board. The instructions were spit on. The code is located inside the fridge were the model tag is. Programmed correctly. Word of advice read the directions a few times you can't go wrong. So far it's day 7 after I installed the board and no ice building up. According to the internet the control board controls the defrost function on my model. Very happy. I'm still watching the freezer but I'm pretty sure I fixed my matter. Thanks for sending the right part and the video. Repair went well. Just take your time and go easy because everything involved is plastic. I didn't want to break any tabs I had to deal with.

Unplug ref then remove lower(freezer) panel plus trays and thermistor’s cover/holder then remove the evaps cover. I found the evaps all frozen up. Cut and remove old thermistor, strip wires 1/2 inch then cut the new thermistor wires to length and strip 1/2 inch, use the enclosed insulated crimp type connector and put back everything in the reverse order. It works great afterwards.

1 - Look at the schematic for the "Fountain" on Partselect.com
2 -Order the ice chute door and seal (seal is rubber and eventually it will stop sealing - while you are in there go ahead and change it)
3 - Unplug the refrigerator then remove the sump tray by pulling it straight out from the door
4 - Unscrew the two screws hidden behind the sump tray - hold the dispenser front housing in place so it doesn't drop downward - after removing the two screws slide the dispenser front housing downward while pressing it against the refrigerator door - there are two clips on the back of the housing that hold it against the refrigerator door
5 - Gently pull the dispenser front housing out of the refrigerator door an inch or two - you will be able to see the electrical connections between the dispenser front housing and the refrigerator.
6 - Continue pulling out the dispenser front housing until you can reach the multi-wire connector on the left - the connector is held together by a clip on the bottom center - squeeze the clip at the end closest to the wires to release it - gently pull the connector off
7 - In the center of the back of the dispenser front housing is a black plastic box (the limit switch) - again, gently pull it away from the two clips holing it on
8 - Set the dispenser front housing aside
9 - Slip the water hose out of the clips holding to to the chute
10 - Unscrew the three screws holding the chute to the door (two on the left and one on the upper right - Slide the chute out of the door
11 - Hold the door hinge so you don't accidentally break it (personal experience) and unclip the top then the bottom of the ice cube door from the hinge (the ice chute seal and ice chute door insulation are attached to the ice cube door - take all three out at the same time)
12 - Slip the ice chute seal off of the ice cube door - pull the ice chute door insulation out of the ice cube door
13 - Put the ice chute door insulation into the new ice chute door - Slip the ice chute seal onto the ice cube door (the schematic will give you the proper orientation for all of the parts)
14 - Again holding the door hinge - slip the two "L" shaped clips onto the bottom of the ice chute door - rotate the ice chute door assembly and snap (gently) the two side clips into place over the opening in the door hinge
15 - Breath a breath of relief if you didn't break anything
16 - Slide the chute assembly over the white pin on the lower right of the refrigerator opening that accepts the chute
17 - Replace the three screws that hold the chute assembly to the door - replace the water line
18 - Clip the limit switch onto the back of the dispenser front housing
19 - run the multi-wire connector behind the water line - connect it to the back of the dispenser front housing
20 - Slip the wires back into the clips along the sides of the opening in the refrigerate door
21 - Rest the dispenser front housing on the bottom of the door opening - it must fit flush to the door (top, bottom and sides) - Slide it gently upward until it stops - replace the two screws at the bottom rear of the dispenser front housing - slide the sump tray back in place
22 - Plug in the refrigerator
23 - Dispense ice cubes into a high ball glass and enjoy a job well done

remove front grill. with pry bar and wooden block, elevate side with broken wheel and insert wooden block behind assemble from the exterior bottom. With roller wheel assemble lose from the wooden block remove front elevator screw from the front frame. next remove cotter pin with the pliers and pull assemble pin. next elevate assemble out. drill out axle on the crimp side insert from the hardware store one 5/16 x 21/2 bolt with nut and new wheel. reinsert assemble in the reverse order. Remove wooden block and adjust height of wheel. replace grill. job complete. good job

Followed the video and installed the new Jazz board. The board cam in 1 piece which had to be separated into two pieces, but the scored area on the board made it less intimidating. At the same time I replaced the two incandescent lamps in the refrigerator area with LED lamps. Getting the housing for the control board apart was the most difficult part, installing the replacement board was a breeze.

By sliding athin screwdriver blade down the side of the old switch the expasion prong that hold the switch in place was compressed enough to allow the switch to come out easlily. Plugged in new swithc and snapped in place. Plugged the refrigerator back in and light has worked great sense!

1. Turn your water OFF and pull the refrigerator out from the wall so you can access the back.
2. Use pliers to remove tubing clamp.
3. Remove old water fill tube.
4. I used a putty knife to gently pry out the old fill tube from the back of the refrigerator. Once the fill tube pulls out about 1/4 to 1/2", then you can gently pull the remainder of the tube out by hand. Once I removed my "old" fill tube, that is when I saw the "ice plug" that was causing pressure in the water supply line and caused my water line to pop off.
5. Install new fill tube. The end that goes in first needs to go through a small "ring" inside the freezer (this "ring" is not encountered until the fill tube only has about one more inch to be inserted into the back of the refigerator. I could barely see this "ring" if I opened the freezer drawer and stuck my head in as far as I could. I had to gently rotate the new fill tube until it cleared the "ring". You will feel some resistance until it lines up properly.
6. Snugly push in the part that stays on the outside of the refrigerator until it looks like it is sealed.
7. Gently push up the water fill tube where it belongs in the new part and replace the tubing clamp.
8. Turn your water on and make sure there are no leaks (I left my refrigerator out for about an hour).
9. Push your refrigerator back in place.

First, I removed the bucket and drained all the ice from it. Then I took the ice bucket out and lifted off the cover of it which exposed the teeth that grind up the ice. I then removed these in succession and placed on my table so I could make sure I put back together appropriately. Once I had the bucket with everything off of it, I replaced and threaded the auger back through it so I could attach the end cap to it. Once that was in place, I put the parts back on the way I took them off. It really was a painless process and saved a ton of money versus calling a repair person. Definitely will use the service again. Very prompt delivery as had the parts 2-3 days after ordered. Well done.

Firts checked the parts received werer correct for the repair and the correct part numbers ordered. Then removed the ice bucket with the auger in bottom. Emptied ice from original bucket auger assembly. Checked out the removeal of the face cover for the bucket auger and removed it from clips that held it in place. Checked the specifications of the old ice bucket compaired to the new parts. Installed the aurger assembly into the new ice bucket and removed the two screws from the old unit to use in secure the auger assembly in the new bucket. The only tool needed was a 1/4 inch nut driver. Installed the face place on the new ice bucket auger assembly and tested the fit in the freezer. Ran test of the auger assembly without ice to ck for any misinstlled parts. Refilled the ice bucket with ice and tested with ice to complete the repair.

Followed the video on parts page. I was worried I would brake the cover but learned from the video the right way to remove the front plate. I found the video very informing. Thank you for saving me a service call and the part cost was minimal compared to a new refrigerator .

The digital display numbers (0= off and 7=coldest setting) controlled by the ECB would continually be replaced by straight lines, and the refrigerator would stop cooling. I tried unplugging it for a while. After plugging it in again, it worked (the digital display came on, I set it to "4" and it reached the proper temp), but the problem occurred again the following day, and then it stopped cooling entirely. I ordered the ECB, and it arrived in 3 business days. I watched the installation instruction video, took my time, double-checked the vid a few times to make sure I was doing it correctly, and replaced the ECB by myself in less than an hour. The refrigerator has been running without problems for 3 weeks now. My fridge had a different light bulb configuration than the one in the video, but everything else was the same, and it was a simple repair.