SZD20KP (P1102506W) Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

First I removed the cover to the evaporator in the freezer section and found the coil iced up, then I turned the defrost timer until it clicked into the defrost mode, the heaters came on so I left the timer in the defrost mode to defrost the coil, it stayed on and did not change. The timer motor was bad, I ordered a new part and had to manually defrost the refrigerator by turning the timer. To replace the part I had to first unplug the power cord then pull the kick plate off at the front of the refrigerator and remove two screws that hold the timer in place, then pull it out unplug the electric plug in the new timer secure it with the two screws and put the kick plate back in place. I then plugged in the power cord and the refrigerator came on as is now working great..

On PartSelect.com this part is only associated with the icemaker. It is actually a dual valve... one for the ice maker and one for the water dispenser. Be sure to match the blue and brown colors of the valve housings to the same hose colors.

The really scary part of this job was cleaning up behind and under the fridge, but also something that was long over due and the perfect opportunity to vacuum out the condenser coils.

Removed 7 hex screws holding carboard cover in place, verified water valve was inop. Ordered and recieved new part and installed. Diagnostic and actual repair under 1/2 hour.

I did not do the repair yet, there is no schematic on how to route the hose; also no description of how to do the routing/connections.

1. Moved the firdge out so I had room to get bhind it.
2. Un-plugged the fridge so I didn't get electrocuted.
3. disconnected the the water hose from the broken water inlet with adjustable wrench.
4. Put hose in bucket to drain and moped up water from inlet valve with towel.
5. removed the 2 scrwes with socket driver that holds inlet on fridge.
6. reached in behind the inlet valve and unplugged the wires from the inlet valve (total of 2 plugs)
7. pulled the inlet valve out of the back of the fridge.
8. removed the bolt that holds the ground wire the metal plate that the inlet valve was connected to.
9. removed the defective inlet valve from the metl plate and tossed the defect valves.
10. put the metal plate on the new inlet valve.
11. screwed on the ground wire to the metal plate from new valve.
12. plugged in the 2 plugs back onto there proper locations on the inlet valve.
13. put the assembly back into place in the back of the fridge and screwed in the remaining 2 screws to hold it in place.
14. Put plumbers tape around outside of inlet to reduce leaks.
15. re-attached the hose and tightened it with the wrench.
16. turned on the water from the wall and verified there were no leaks.
17. Plugged in the fridge and tested that the water on the door worked.
18. Pushed the fridge back into place and the kids could once again enjoy water from the door of the fridge and in about 5 hours we had some ice again for our drinks.

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

I got the product very quickly. (thank you) Looked at online instructions that were quite vague. Pulled plug.Removed the holder for the fan motor slid it out to see what I had. Removed the mounting screws (3) and slid the motor an fan blade out. I made a cut between the wires and marked the "top" wire to motor to be sure to spin in right direction. Removing fan blade hold down clamp was NOT explained at all but I noted that the shaft on the motor was threaded, so I used pliars and held the shaft white un-screwing clamp. I cleaned the fan blades with degreaser and scraped edges of opening on holder opening. Make sure to use ALL the NEW parts included with this kit when re-installing. They send them for a reason. When slpicing and connecting wires it is a 50/50 shot if you don't mark before cutting. You can connect and try plugging fridge back for moment and make sure it is blowing OUT. Put everything back together and after turning DOWN the thermostats twice, fridge is back to usual. Ice maker is cranking out ice and outside case is cool to the touch.

Note: This can be a DIRTY job especially with 4 dogs in house. Fir and grease don't mix well

First I pulled the fridge out from the wall and turned off the water supply. Next I removed the access panel on the bottom front of the fridge. Located behind the panel was the water supply line for the water dispenser in the door which has a disconnect the I simply unscrewed so that I would be able to lift the door off of the bottom hinge. Next I took one screw out of the top hinge cover to access three small bolts and disconnect the electrical connections to the door. After removing the bolts I lifted the door off and took out the small screw holding in the bottom cam and replaced with the new one. After reinstalling door I removed all the small bolts holding on the freezer gasket. After this the gasket easily pulls out and began installing the new gasket. This part of the job was the most time consuming. After I had the gasket back behind the pinch rail I began reinstalling the bolts. Since the gasket was bent during shipping I simply took a hair dryer to the slightly bent parts of the gasket to get them to lay flat. Freezer now has a great seal and stays closed when refrigerator door is being shut.

I removed 7 screws hold the heavy cardboard cover on the rear of the fridge. The dificult part was taking the screws that hold the 3 fan motor braces on the fan out. After that it was a matter of making the wire conections and putting it back in. I did not have enough room to laydown to do the work, If i had it would have been a lot easier to see the screws that had to be removed. All in all an easy job, and the part was a perfect fit.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

I'm sharing this story because what appeared to be the fault of a defective water inlet valve, turned out to be something else. Maybe it will be helpful to you. Because the refrigerator and not been hooked up to water for several months, several knowledgeable people suggested I replace the solenoid valve, as its malfunction was the likely problem. I did so, without results. That is, still no water or ice. Then I remembered, the door with the dispensers had been removed and replaced at the beginning of the period in which there was no water hook-up. Looking for some other reason the dispensers did not work, it occurred to me it might be the wiring from the door to the body of the refrigerator, and so it was. When the door was reinstalled, they misaligned the four-wire plug, resulting in faulty connections. When I rotated the plug to get the colored wires to match up, everything worked as it should. Had I thought of that first, I could have saved $70 on a valve I did not need.

removed old and instaslled new. biggest problem was getting to one of the screws.

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now