AC2224GEKS Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

My son (who does HVAC, but not appliance repair) did some investigating by taking front and back panels off and determined that the evaporator coil was freezing over because the defrost wire was not heating up. He and his girlfriend did some real-time internet searching for diagnostic info because NO control diagram was included with the refrigerator. He determined the problem was most likely the electronic control board. Ordered and installed a new board and the refrigerator is back to working fine. Took about 2 hours to diagnose the problem and 1/4 hour to actually install the control board. Kind of disappointing that this control board failed when the refrigerator was less that 4 years old.

Truth is, this took a couple hours of cursing, but that was due to poor information and no prior experience. I imagine the next one would take 20 minutes. The issues are these: videos tell you to use a putty knife to pry the old switch out. That is harder than it seems because each switch has a plastic spring that pops open to hold the switch on, and you can't access the spring when the switch is installed. So it is important to use the knife on the side of the switch (left or right of spring -- look at the new switch), and back and forth until the switch is worked out. Then it can get worse. The new switch has to plug in electrically before it can be installed mechanically. In my case, with the switch on the fridge wall rather than the top, the outlet for the plug was encased in foam insullation. That gives the appearance that the plug was fixed, immovable, which makes it impossible to plug it in electrically before the switch is in place, and of course once it is in place you can't then plug it in. The problem here was poor instructions. Just scrape out a lot of the foam around the plug and you find that the plug is really not fixed, but attached to reasonably long wires that allow you to plug it in with the switch a couple inches from the wall, and then insert the switch. None of the online instructions tell you this about the wires.

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

Cut old fill tube into pieces, removed and replaced with new tube. Extremely easy.

Remove two screws from top door hinge.
Remove door from unit
Remove old broken plastic cam 1 screw
Replace new door cam tighten 1 screw
Reinstall door and top hinge screws.

Unplugged refrigerator.
Removed water drip tray.
Removed two Phillips screws.
used putty knife to
get behind outer plate and popped it off.
Disconnected electrical connections.
Removed the 4 nut driver screws.
removed ice maker door.
Removed seal around old Ice shoot flap and cleaned.
Removed insulator pad from old ice maker flap and cleaned.
Installed seal and insulator pad on the new chute door.
clipped new chute door intact with seal and pad in place and snapped the top clips into place.

Reversed procedure to reinstall refrigerator parts.

Plugged in refrigerator and tested. Had no issues.

Problem led to 3 possible problem parts, defrost thermostat, defrost heater or defrost control board. Defrost heater ohmed out to 31 ohms, so seemed good. Defrost thermostat was open when warm but was open after running refrigerator to get freezer side cold enough for thermostat to close, it did not I thought. So I ordered thermostat. Once part came in, I cut up a couple inches on orange and brown wires, stripped off enough to work with. I soldered new one in and heat shrunk the wires. I turned on and it seem to work and all night. Working fine right now.

Popped off the control panel at the top behind the door. Found the thermistor and replaced it, cutting the wires and splicing the new one in. Immediately the warm section of the refrigerator was getting below freezing temperature readings, so the cooling vent was not opening. I put the old one back on and the temperature readings went back to being accurate. So this was not the problem. I believe now that the fan somehow is not blowing enough cold air up. So now I'll probably buy a fan motor and maybe a blade and try that. Otherwise the computer module I priced at $500 so I hope it isn't that. I replace the fan motor a few years ago already.

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

Very easy to order from parts select. Took seconds to replace.

Super easy - emptied door of all food, unscrewed bracket from top of door, lifted door off and set aside. Broken cam removed, new one screwed in, and lubed with some Vaseline. Set door back in new cam, screwed bracket into the top, and good to go. I was kinda worried about shopping from PartSelect since I had never heard about them, but the part was here in less than 2 days. Pretty awesome little company.

I had to order three times before I got the right part. This was due to my rush to fix the problem and not studing the diagram carefully (black and white diagrams are not that clear). The repair was very simple. Just remove the rubber from the plastic door and slip on the new one.

Wow! less Than 15 mins to install, called partSelect and within two days the Auger arrived and with handy socket it was done!

i just took the prts apart and replaced with new part really easy and saved $185.00 easy as pie

I changed the bulb but it still didn’t work. I ordered a bulb holder and replaced it and it works properly now. It was an easy repair, remove the bulb, gently pry the bulb holder out with a screwdriver and snap the new one in.

It was useful that under the description of the part in the catalog, it showed that this part was often used to repair this issue. The service was great and the delivery was fast.