P1303504WE Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

The good news is that the part (the wheel was available.) I bought two in the event that the other wheel may break in the future. The bad news is that the housing that holds the wheel was riveted together by the wheel axle. It would have been nice to know that before I bought the part and if the housing with the wheel installed was available. The refrigerator was at my summer house a hundred miles away. Anyway, we had to grind the end of the riveted axle to dislodge it from the wheel housing. With the axle dislodged from the housing we were able to install the wheel and then hammer the end of the axle flat to keep in place, like the original rivet installation. It is not perfect but it held and should be fine. I am glad I was able to get the part and will be back in the future, if in need of other parts.

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

As the prior stories mentioned, this was a fairly easy fix to a nagging problem. Heck, we almost bought a new refer over this, cuz the door would keep popping open.

Needed a screwdriver, and a 5/16" nut driver (mounted in elec. drill). Have two people for this one! Emptying the door would help out tons too. ('course, I didn't do that!)

With the door closed, remove the plastic cover on top by removing 1 phyllips screw. Then, using drill mounted 5/16" nut driver, remove 3 hinge screws. Remove hing by lifting up. Now, carefully open and remove the door. Here is where the 2nd person comes in. There are 2-3 1/4" screws (Must use a 1/4' NUT DRIVER, SOCKET OR MAGNETIC BIT HOLDER) on the bottom of the door to remove the broken plastic cam. Also, you must remove the bad cam from the bottom hinge using I believe the 1/4" nut driver.

Finally , one person lift the door while the other kneels on the floor to help giude the door back onto the bottom hing pin. Close the door, ensuring that the top of the doors are even, and secure the 3 top hinge screws. UR done!

Greg

Removed screws on back cover plate in Freezer, disconnected fan assembly, removed fan assembly, removed propeller from fan assembly, and transferred it to new motor, installed new assembly, reconnected electrical connections, screwed on back cover plate - Viola!

turn off water and unplug fridge. remove ice maker bottom mounting screw. just loosen the 2 top mounting screws. unplug wire harness from back of fridge. remove old icemaker from freezer compartment. once removed, salvage square endcover and reinstall on new maker. unfasten wire harness from old maker and reinsatll on new one. reinsert thermal wire in new ice maker holding bracket. remove second wiring bracket and reinstall on new maker to hold remaining wires (not mentioned on "how to-" video). remove old ice maker on/off bale and reinstall on new one. remount new maker to top mounting screws, reinsert harness plug into fridge. replace bottom screw,

First I removed the back cover then removed 3 nuts holding the motor. Next I removed the two wires. Next I attached new connectors to the wires and installed the new motor and everything worked perfect!

Service and shipping were fantastic! I would definitely use Partselect again!

Repair Refrigerator Kick Plate Grill:
No tools were required. I removed old grill with hands. I attached two clips to new grill, and re-installed the new grill. (less than 5 minutes very easy)

Repair Crushed Ice Bucket:
You will need sockets or nut driver. Remove the Ice crusher dispenser and metal rod from the existing unit. You will then re-install with the new Ice Bucket. There were two scews that held the front cover. You will need to remove four screws to remove the ice crusher mechanism and re-install with new bucket. (10 minutes to replace)

Repair Ice Maker Assembly:
I removed the plastic cap on the top left edged of the ice maker. You will need to use your existing cap with the replacement unit. I then loosened the top two screws on the ice maker assembly. You do not need to remove the top two screws. There is one screw on the bottom that will need to be removed. This will allow you to get to the wiring harness. I pulled out the white tube that fills the ice maker with water. I then used a small bucket to pour existing water out of the ice maker. I used a small screw driver to depess the clip on the wiring harness. You can not pull out the wiring harnes unless the plastic clip is depressed. The new ice maker assembly did not have the same type of water line attachment. It looks like it is made for different assemblys. For my water tube, I noticed a notched area on the new unit that could be cut out to work like my existing unit did for the water line. I used a box knife to cut out the notched area. On the new water tray, there was a hole in the side that my existing unit did not have. It does not affect the installation of the water tube. I installed the new ice maker assembly by attaching the wiring harness. Installed the bottom screw using my original bracket instead of the new bracket that came with the new unit. Tightened the top screws and bottom screw. Attached the water tube to the ice maker assembly. Attached plastic cap between the refrigerator wall and left side of the ice maker assembly. (15 minutes)

Defrost fan was not coming on, extreme frost build up on coils in freezer compartment. For troubleshooting purposes, bypassed thermostat to see if fan would work. Just cut wires and wire nut them together. Fan worked OK so figured the thermostat was bad. Considered the defrost timer, but it was working OK as I could see it advancing, and there was voltage to the thermostat. (120vac) Anyway, once I received the new part, it simply just plugs in to the existing connectors. The test connector has to be pushed through the back access hole, which is sealed by a flexible putty, make sure to get it sealed good, its re-usable. Only had to remove two pannels, the one on back and the lower one in the freezer compartment, all you need is a 1/4" socket for both. Repair was easy, but it will take some time for the temp to come down. Very important- make sure you clip the thermostat to the coil or you will not cool properly, this is so that the temperature transfer can take place, the cold air is not enough to do it.

We have a side-by-side and the tutorial was different than what we have. Had trouble getting cover off, but finally repaired and WE HAVE ICE! Also took longer than expected.
Saved a lot!

I have replaced the circuit board, the condenser fan motor but the unit still will not feeze correctly. The bottom of the unit freezes but just barely cools the rest of the freezer and ice box. Have you got any other advice that might help. This is a side by side unit. What else could be the problem. It seems that the fan is not working correctly or it is stuck in defrost mode. The coils where the fan is seem to be icing up but it will not let the fan work. THanks for your help, David Wilson

replaced the bimetal defrost thermostat & defrost timer and that seem to cure the problem found repair easy and parts were here n lest than two days very satisfied with prompt sening of parts an explanation how to repair. Thank-you!!!!

removed the back panel inside the freezer (several small screws) with a nutdriver. used a hair dryer to melt the built up ice. replaced the thermostat and replaced the panel. very simple repair.

remove front grill. with pry bar and wooden block, elevate side with broken wheel and insert wooden block behind assemble from the exterior bottom. With roller wheel assemble lose from the wooden block remove front elevator screw from the front frame. next remove cotter pin with the pliers and pull assemble pin. next elevate assemble out. drill out axle on the crimp side insert from the hardware store one 5/16 x 21/2 bolt with nut and new wheel. reinsert assemble in the reverse order. Remove wooden block and adjust height of wheel. replace grill. job complete. good job

Removed the two screws that hold flaping door. Removed the single screw that covers the connecting wires. Disconnected the wiring plug. I wiggled out the ice maker. Took off the motor cover. Swapped out one motor for the other. Reinstalled the icemaker in the resverse order of removal. Note the wiring plug in the freeze is very from. It makine s the reconnection differcult.

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.