HMG521540 Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

Replaced the water valve. I knew that the ice maker was working by watching the movement. It was not getting water to it, s I figured it was the electric water valve and sure enough, that fixed the problem.

replacement was relative easy. The problem came with wire connector that had to be cut, stripped and crimped. The crimping was the dificult part. the connector was a problem to crimp.

Found a tip online that said to check the resistance of the defrost coil, when I had none I knew the coils had burned out. Before pulling the old coil out I tied on some long pieces of string as was suggested, that made things go very quick! The hardest part was reaching to the back of the narrow freezer space, but fortunately I have long arms. So far all is working well, and I have a great deal of satisfaction knowing I did the repair myself!

had to cut approximately 1/2 inch off. It was a bit to thick used the pliers to squeeze it to a thickness it would fit in the slots

Reattaching the kickplate clip was easy, but the tab that holds in place was broken. It would slide back when the kickplate was installed. I fashioned a replacement tab out of a piece of 3/32 aluminum bent into a U with the hammer. To hold it in place I drilled and tapped one hole and used a 6-32 machine screw.

I replaced the run capacitor wich is located near the compressor, i first turned power off to fridge than remuved capacitor checked for continuity and the capacitor was the problem thanks

Turned refrigerator and freezer controls to off, removed icemaker bin, unplugged icemaker plug and removed two screws holding icemaker in place and removed icemaker. removed screws holding auger motor and freezer compartment light plate, unplugged and set aside. Remover screws holding freezer coil cover in place and removed cover. Allowed coils to defrost completely and then removed screws that hold the two defrost heater coil mounting plates in place, unplugged the two wires that connect the defrost heater coils to the connector block that is located above the freezer coil. Remove the entire defrost heater by working the connecting wires out from along side the freezer coil. Remove the clips that hold the old defrost heater elements to the mounting plates. Install new heating elements into the two mounting plates with the clips. Reinstall the two mounting plates to brackets on freezer coil and reinstall connecting wiring up to connector block and reconnect them. Reinstall freezer coil cover, icemaker auger motor and freezer compartment light plate, and icemaker and bin to complete job. Due to the confined space in the freezer compartment, reinstalling the freezer coil cover and light plate was difficult as I could only use one arm at a time resulting in many dropped screws.

Ordered new single outlet water valve, received in less than two days. Removed old one, and the repair pretty much feel in place. Instructions were there as a backup. ........ Just curious if the connection from the water source to the valve outlet connection could b a quick connect just the like the water line going directly to the ice maker. Gregg in PA.

remove all tray,remove back panel,cut out out old heater adn replace with new heatger,refitted back panel and alll tray.

it went good

Tuned up the ends of the bracket with a needle-nosed pliers then installed new retainer clips into bracket. I then laid on floor and lined up two holes in door and bracket (one end at a time) and pushed retainer clips into door's existing holes. Door was open for less than 30 seconds. Bracket is now solid and holding. Note: Do not jam products in bottom or any shelf thus putting pressure on bracket. Find a new home for the product!!

The Whirlpool water inlet valve was better design than the original. All I had to do was drill 2 holes to mount it since it didn't mount in the same location as the old one. I liked the push in connection for the water outlet to the ice maker better than the original plastic screw connection.

Easy to replace refrigerator bar retaining clip. Just pop it off with flat tip screwdriver, put the new clip in the bar, slide bar in place till the studs on the clip line up with the holes in the door and pop the clip in place.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

1. Inserted the plastic bracket into the channels on the side of the front metal piece with the hole plugs facing outward.
2. Lined up the plastic piece with the plugs with the holes on the shelf door.
3. Slid the plastic piece (in its channel) towards the door and into the holes.