GS24B7C3EV Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

I noticed that the refrigerator was having trouble maintaining temperature. Thought it might be time for new one until I found out that a new frig was $5k to $7K. Just happened to notice that the light switch didn't look quite right (was not sitting sqaure to the door). Once I pressed it it came loose. I then realized the the lights were staying on (50 watts of heating). Replaced the switch and the frig started working like new.

Great service. Unpluged old switch and pluged in new one. Works great

My owners manual said to unplug fridge from elec outlet, use a kitchen knife to gently pry off the switch plate
(manual had a pictoral example), unclip the two wire, replace with on new switch and replace the switch. Close
door and plug back in. Open door to check that the lite
works. Walla! It did. Thanks!

Sincerely, Ron Marshall, Billings, MT

Popped the old one out with a kitchen knife and popped the new one back in. It tool less than 15 seconds!!

I pried the old one out with a screw driver and pushed the new one in. I expected instructions in the box it came in but there were none.

To replace the broken drive coupling on the motor end of the auger requires sliding the ice bin out of the freezer section of the refrigerator. Remove the ice cubes and let it thaw out for a few minutes. Remove five screws holding the front face on the ice bin to remove the ice auger. slip the new drive coupling over the end of the auger. reassemble and replace the face plate with the five screws. Slide the ice bin back in the freezer. Less than fifteen minutes it was finished.

had it done by my husband, I did not do it

Please bear in mind I am 65 years old & it was harder to get up & down off the floor then to change the switch. Was very easy - watched video, unplugged unit. I used the putty knife at the right front corner to work loose, when it came loose had to loose the left side a little. The unit pulled out easily. detached the wired that had a single plug with 2 prongs on it. Attached the plug, pushed new switch into place. There was no way you could place wires on wrong prong. When done, plugged refrigerator back in & checked if working. I CAN SEE THE LIGHT and the food in the freezer now. Thank you for making an easy repair.

Had to remove the ice-maker (also easier than trying to work inside the freezer letting all the cold air out). A few mounting screws and an electrical connection in the back. After it was out you will need to remove the cover (not the superficial cover that just pries off) where the gear is behind it, just far enough so you can get the mounting tabs on the ice-stripper in. In order to to move this cover out, after removing the screws (the obvious), you'll need needle nose pliers to ever so slightly squeeze the plastic clips together that hold the plastic movable bracket and the metal ice level arm/switch, so it will pop out. Once you have room to put the ice stripper in, it should just all snap back together, then proceed in reverse to put it all back together.

Simply inserted the shelf. So easy to find just what we needed from the website. We really got great service and the shelf arrived in three days. Thanks so much.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

Compressed the springs and removed the damaged switch, then changed the wiring over to the new switch and press into place, worked fine.

1)pry out the old/defective light rocker switch with a screw driver (flat head) and pull out the cables 2)unplug two connectors at the end of light rocker switch 3) connect new light rocker into two connectors 4)push the wires inside and put back new light rocker switch

I did exactly as the video showed. I popped out the old switch, disconnected the two terminals, connected the new switch and put it back. The light now works! The refrigerator is over 25 years old and the switch works! What a great website this is. Couldn't of done the job without Partselect's help.

Easy disassemble removing screws to separate front of ice bin.Be sure to note how metal rod is attached to rear of ice bin. Installed drive ring and reattached face (front) of ice bin in about 15 minutes.