GS22X8DV (DR33B) Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

When that one came and I went to install it, I found that my fridge was so old (almost 30 years) that the wire harness on the old icemaker could not be transferred to the new one. The old one was hand wired into the guts of the machine with wire nuts and other connectors. The new unit needs a plug in harness to match a plug connection on the ice maker. Also, the bent wire arm that senses ice bin levels was different, old unit hooked in with clips and such, new one pops into a socket in the new ice maker.

I called PartSelect back again, and the clerk spent a lot of time in the books (no parts in the online listings) and found new style connector and wire arm. Another 25 dollars and problem is solved.

Once those parts came, the actual installation was a breeze. Remove three screws, unplug the ice maker from the back wall of the fridge, plug new wire harness into new ice maker and the back wall of the frige, install new ice maker with the same three screws, pop the new style bent wire arm into place and pop the plastic cover from the old ice maker onto the front of the new one. Done! Took me ten minutes (plus two weeks of chasing parts, but only half an hour of actual time in those two weeks).

I let it make a couple of loads of ice that I disposed of (to capture any dust and crud that might have been on or in the new ice maker) and then turned it loose. We had a nice full bin of ice in the morning.

removed screws, pulled element out, and put new element in

First i used a nut driver to remove the bottom screw, the unclipped the two top clips by leaningthe bottom of the unit outwards. I used a mirror to see the two top clips as i could not see inside. Then i removed the wiring harness from the refrigerator. The unit came right out, i transerred the needed parts, and re-installed. Not too bad - about 45 mins. It works great!

unscrewed the 3 nuts, took off the electrical connection. Then put new one on. One problem, the ice maker had a hole on the side for the hose, mine needed one in the back. I used tape to hold it in place going over the part that was in the wrong place.

There are 3 screws holding the icemaker in place. After removing the ice bucket, I removed the screws, then twisted the unit to gain access to the power plug. The plug is held in place by a plastic flap which is part of the connector. It has to be pushed down to remove the connector. The new unit went in perfectly and performed flawlessly for 3 days until the compressor blew out! After feeling some sense of accomplishment having fixed the icemaker, I learned that my neglecting to clean the vent grill in the front of the refrigerator had caused its demise. Don't forget to clean the dust out of the vents!

Saw many photos on the Internet that looked like my ice maker, but they were different. I put in my Refrigerator model No. and found my exact replacement ice maker right away. I was a little cautious, because the new one didn't include the wiring harness, or the plastic cover. I took the chance and ordered it. Super fast delivery, a Day or 2 at most. Everything went smoothly, and after the new one was in, I crossed my fingers until the timer kicked in, and I started hearing ice cubes falling in the tray about 3 hours later. Success! I had been having problems with the ice maker almost from the beginning. Hopefully, the replacement will last longer. I will say that this Maytag Fridge. is the absolute worst kitchen appliance I've ever owned in my 47 years of house keeping! The defroster went in the freezer a couple of months after the Warranty ended, and it cost me $375.00 to have a Tech, come in to repair. I got away easy this time, buying the ice maker for $135.00 and being able to do the work myself.

Jim

Removed old icemaker by removing two hex screws and one phillip's head screw.

Disconnected power connection to refrigerator.

Removed power connection harness and ice level sensor arm/levor and cover from old ice maker and installed on new ice maker.

Re-installed in refrigerator. It was simple on this model.

I disconnected power, turned off water supply, removed three hexhead screws, disconnected wiring harness plug, then reversed procedure. New icemaker seens to be a little slower in making cubes. However, the cubes are clean, perfect shape and THEY DO NOT CONTAIN ANY OF THE BLACK COATING AS THE OLD ICE MAKER CAUSED. THIS WAS A FAIRLY SIMPLE TASK.

Repair done according to video and instructions. What you need to know is myself and my husband are adverse to all kinds of "simple" repairs because they never go well and we are not handyman kind of persons. This, I must say, was a delightful change in our typical experience of attempting to make our own repairs.
Thanks
Sandy

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!

I watched the repair video on the web site a couple of times just to get comfortable with what to expect. (i.e. pressing tabs on wiring harness to remove, placement of lift arm for removal and installation) These instructions were a big help...I had the removal, modifications and installation completed in less than 30 minutes. Ice cubes (without the extra icicles) in 1 hour...

Removed top drawer from freezer. Unplugged the ice maker. Uncrewed the bottom screw. Loosened the two top screws. Removed old ice maker. Removed all the parts that didn't come with the new ice maker and installed on new ice maker. Reinstalled the new ice maker. Started making ice with no leaks in about 3 hours.

ordered a new shut-off valve. arrived in 5 days. installation had to wait a couple more day for i had to order a new compression nut. the reason i had to order a new nut was because the original nut was made of teflon and stripped easily when i tightened it to make a leak proof.joint. the new nut arrived in two days and was installed readily being that it was made of brass and consequently did not strip when i tightened to make a drip proof joint. finished in approximately twenty minutes' the video that this site has on the internet was of great value.

I have a Maytag Refridgerator with lower freezer and ice maker. Stopped making ice. Noticed the unit would fill up and freeze but the tray wouldn't rotate to drop the cubes into the tray. Cleared the frozen trays to see if it was just stuck but same thing happened. Replaced unit, not difficult with the exception that the top tray is ridiculously hard to get out. Never did do it, just worked around it. Working perfect now.

I switched the ring and still had the same problem. What caused the Drive ring to crack was the Ice maker drive was cracked also, when it filled with water it would tip. The ice was not freezing completely and would cause the ice to build up and the auger was froze with ice or a big piece of ice would jam it. So I replaced the Ice Tray, it is working like new. I have to buy another ice tray as inventory, although I know inventory is bad but I never agreed with that theory.