GS24C8N3EV Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

removed old mount with allen wrench replaced with new mount

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

The main issue is that my supports are NOT held on by screws -- they are behind the fridge wall and can not be removed. So this is my solution (ignore the 'fix kit' -- it is useless and is just this part plus a metal screw. It cost me $20 to find this out). Here is what I did: 1) Cut off the old support with a knife. 2) Get a small toggle bolt (I used 1/8" x 2", < $2 from Home Depot) and thread into new support. 3) Dig around in insulation to make sure there is space for toggle to flip open. 4) Install!!!! Wish I'd thought of this before :-)

Fit the attachment hooks into the storage bins and then began to insert the rivets. It was hard to keep the hook in place while inserting the rivet. Ended up keeping it wedged in place with screwdrivers. pounded the rivet in with a small hammer. One of the rivets was not aligned well and I had to pull it out and start over... Eventually succeeded and after one week the storage bins are holding in place. So far so good.

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

1)pry out the old/defective light rocker switch with a screw driver (flat head) and pull out the cables 2)unplug two connectors at the end of light rocker switch 3) connect new light rocker into two connectors 4)push the wires inside and put back new light rocker switch

I did exactly as the video showed. I popped out the old switch, disconnected the two terminals, connected the new switch and put it back. The light now works! The refrigerator is over 25 years old and the switch works! What a great website this is. Couldn't of done the job without Partselect's help.

snapped it in

We tried repairing with a new switch which was very easy to install but it didn't fix the problem.

This is an easy fix, simply remove and replace. What I was impressed with is that a how to video was provided along with my part. I wish all manufactures would offer this, the video was easy to understand and you had a good view of the operation. Thanks, a job well done.

First pry out center expansion plug on the old broken Shelf Hook. There is a pin inside. Remove old hook. Push through new hook making sure you have the correct right & left side. Put the toothpicks on the outside to hold the hook part in place while you put the expansion plug in. Next tap the pin back into place. Each side will take about 15 minutes or so. We held the hook in place with either a needle nose pliers or a screwdriver while we put he plug back in.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!