GC2227EEDW Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

I took the bottom tray out removed 2 screws that were under it. Pop the decorative trim piece off and remove three screws under it. Pull the dispenser out and pop the new door into tabs. I didn't replace the solenoid. Save that for later if I need to.

easy, step-by-step repair. replaced all parts that came with kit; no hastle. only issue was that "torx" head screwdriver was needed (which I had).

Removed all screws on back and 4 on front. That part is easy IF you have a Torx of the right size. Slip out the ice bin a bit and replace the drive ring. Reassembly is a bit harder since some internal shift can occur -- rotate or tilt the whole assembly to get two -- I think -- screws started. No need to over tighten screws; snug is good enough.

Removed 6 screws to get at broken part. Had to remember the disassembly sequence to properly reassemble. The whole process was relatively simple. I saved about $125 which would have been the cost of a repairman coming to the house.

I switched the ring and still had the same problem. What caused the Drive ring to crack was the Ice maker drive was cracked also, when it filled with water it would tip. The ice was not freezing completely and would cause the ice to build up and the auger was froze with ice or a big piece of ice would jam it. So I replaced the Ice Tray, it is working like new. I have to buy another ice tray as inventory, although I know inventory is bad but I never agreed with that theory.

Unplugged refrigerator. Removed 3 screws holding unit in place. Carefully disconnected the wire from the control face plate. removed existing ice dispense door and spring, disconnected lead from solenoid which controls ice dispenser door opening and closing. Removed 2 screws holding solenoid in place. Removed old solenoid and replaced with new one. Installed new ice dispenser door and spring. Replaced old actuator pad with new one and reassembled.
Repair was easy but unfortunately did not fix the problem. Subsequent tests indicate no power getting to the solenoid so I think I have a circuit board problem --

Just had to follow the easy to read instructions that came with the kit assembly. Only problem came when reinstalling the spring the recomended half a turn of tenison. seems like it was'nt enough tenison to completey close the door air tight. Would be much easier if the pictures where clearer and larger for older eyes to see.

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

The Refrigerator had panels of wood, they had to be removed above the Ice maker face plate before it could be lifted off. There were several layers of Torx screws to be taken off., had to purchase that tool. Luckily they were all T-15 and I guessed right at the hardware store. The rest of the repair went pretty as indicated on the sheet provided.

removed the panel to get to icemaker(4 screws), then removed the plug, then removed worn solenoid and replaced with
new one. Had to jiggle old solenoid to get out,
but not with much effort. Everything went back
into place effortlessly

Disconncted power, pulled plug on disconnect, loosened 3 ice maker attach screws, removed ice maker. carefully removed old broken part, to understand reasembly. Reinstalled new water fill & bearing part.. hung icemaker and tightened attach screws. Reattached electrical plug.. turned on power, it all worked. .took about 45 min to remove, 15 min to reinstall. Right tools needed re disassembly AND ASSEMBLY

Removed screws, removed parts, spring popped off, didn't know where it was actually at, had a difficult time getting the spring in the right place, (the directions were not that clear), put back together 6 times before I got it right.

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

Removed approx. 5 phillips screws to access the flap from the outside of the freezer door and R & R'd the flap, then repaced the screws. Fairly simple installation. Most impressive was how easy it was to find the part here and the quick delivery.

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!