IGS900DS01 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

replaced light socket but did not repair problem. must have burned the motherboard.


pleased with service from your company.

1. Unscrewed glass cover on bulb
2. Removed old bulb
3. Screwed in new bulb
4. Replaced glass cover
5. Mixed drink & baked cupcakes

Turned off CB for the oven,Remove the oven from the cabinet , remove the back of the oven, replaced the light Assembly. turned on CB for the oven, tested the light. and truned off the CB and replace the back and reinstalled the oven in the cabinet.

My husband took the plastic cover off and took out old bulb and screwed in the new one. Then put the cover back on.

unscrewed screws in the back of the stove. inside the stove, replaced the old bake igniter with the new one and connected the electrical wire in the back of the stove.

very easy

Screwed in light bulb and glass protector

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

shook bottle and painted waited a day and repeated

Just replaced insert pan - was able to identify it on the internet web site by inserting model number. Ordered part on line and got it within a week! Easy peasy!

Removed six screws on the valve cover using Phillips head screw driver. Three are along the top on the burner side and three are underneath, needing the upper oven door to be opened to gain access. Removed the old valve using screwdriver and 7/16 end wrench. Used same tools to reassemble. Only problem is the valve retaining clamp is hard to get on unless you position it first, before connecting the valve to the line that runs off to the burner. Otherwise, it would have been fairly easy. These valves will stick if liquids are allowed to drip down and under the valve knobs. The channel in the valve stem takes the liquids down to the valve and can cause frozen valves. I bought 3 extra valves to have on hand in case of future failures.

Removed stove from slot in wall. Bent rear left leg would not unscrew due to bent metal bracket. Used hacksaw to cut out leg, then straightened metal bracket with small hammer and was able to screw new leg in and adjust height by using level on stove before reinserting stove its slot. Recheck level after pushing back in place and adjust front legs if necessary. If not for bent metal receiving bracket, would have taken much less time. Still easy tho. R'cvd part in two days. Very quick.

Remove the big back panel (5 phillips screws). Confirm voltage is present when attempting to start the oven by unplugging the PROPER ignitor. I say proper because initially I thought that the broil ignitor was the culprit. Very upper ignitor is the broiler ignitor and the next one down is the ignitor for the upper oven. You will notice that the ignitor plugs differ between broiler and oven. New ignitor should have a male end. Once I confirmed that voltage was present when attempting to turn on the upper oven and probing the ignitor terminal plug, I proceeded to remove the lower cover inside the oven (2 screws very front side) and remove the burner assembly. (First you'll need to remove the oven door, easy, just tilt out part way and slide it up and off of the rails). The ignitor is mounted to the burner assembly. It's inevitable, the 5/16 hex screws (x2) will absolutely strip out so make sure you have some extras on hand. Replace the ignitor, reinstall and you should be good to go! I've read that you shouldn't touch the element with your fingers as this will compromise the life of the ignitor. Good luck!

very simple fix. I removed the bake burner cover (the blue cover on the bottom of the oven), under that is the oven baffle which is held on with one wing nut and removed that. Then remove the oven bake igniter screws(two on the side), remove the orifice cover scew and remove then remove the oven bake burner gently. once these parts are off you need to remove the screws on the back of the oven ( I believe theres about 4 or 5 along each side and there are 4 on the bottom of the large metal plate. you only need to remove the large metal cover every thing else stays put. Disconnect the lower back burner attatchment which just clips into the connecter. once thats removed the part should come out easlily from the inside of the oven. Now take the new bake ignitor and feed the wires through the opening on the inside of the oven that allows the wires to come through to the back of the oven(you may need to feel around for the wires and move some of the insulation aside to feel them) once the wires come through the back connect the new part by clipping it to the harness the old part was removed from. At this point you should be able to reassemble the back of the oven exactly the way it was removed.Now go back to the inside of the oven, replace the bake burner gently over the bake burner orifice and put the orifice cover back on and reattach with it's screw. Position the bake igniter back into place on the side of the bake burner and replace the two screws previously removed. Once thats in place its time to put the oven baffle back on and secure with the wing nut and the last step is to place the bake burner cover. Just set the oven to bake and it should be working if thats in fact the problem..Good luck. Took me less than 15 minutes to fix.Some find it easier to remove the oven door but I didn't need to do this since I had enough room to access the front and the back of the oven without any trouble.