WFG515S0ES1 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

REMOVE BOTTOM OVEN PAN. REMOVE GAS DEFLECTOR. REMOVE GAS TUBE. UNPLUG WIRE. REMOVE TOP AND BOTTOM SCREWS ON IGNITER. REPLACE IGNITER AND REATTACH IGNITER SCREWS. RE-INSERT IGNITER PLUG. REPLACE GAS TUBE AND DEFLECTOR. REPLACE OVEN BOTOOM PAN.

took out old oven bottom by removing 2 screws, placed the new oven bottom in place put the screws back in and was done.

I trouble shot and traced out to electrical short in face panel and found burnt wires. I've been a licensed electrician for years and it takes alot of comon sense to trouble shoot and find problem. I found schetch-matic of appliance and searched computor and found partselect.com and tried it. It wasnt no time and the part was at my door. Thank you partselect and i would use them again in the future. billy

It was alittle difficult at 1st to remove the clips that held in the socket. But once out everything went smoothly.

very expensive to buy the part but just tighten the screw intot eh predefined place.

Removed trays to expose the ignitor, replaced ignitor and re-assembled.
Would be much faster the second time.

Loosened two screws and removed tray, very simple. Replaced new tray and adjusted screws to hold tray. Easiest part was finding new tray part number and ordering replacement using online parts diagram.

I first shut off gas to stove and unplugged the stove. I then opened the oven door and used a phillips screw driver to remove the three screws under the cover plate that sits behind the gas control knobs . I then removed the cover plate. I then took off the grates on stove top and proceeded to remove the two screws on each burner head with a phililps screwdriver. Some where tight so I used a drill driver on low speed to turn the screws out. After removing the burner heads I had to remove two screws on each corner in the front under the cook top of the stove to remove the cook top off the stove. But before that I had to release the two wires from a clip under the cook top for the ignitor switches before I could lift the cook top off the stove. These should be on the right hand side. Now I had access to remove the burner valve that had the broken stem that the knob is attached too. For this I used adjustable wrench to remove the nut for the gas tube that goes from the burner head to the control valve. Then I had to release the ignitor switch by pulling it off the control valve stem or gently pry it off with a flat head screw driver. Then used 1/4 in socket wrench to remove the top bolt to release the old burner valve off the gas plenum where all the burner valves are attached too. Then pull the old control valve off from underneath the gas plenum. Then i put in the new burner valve making sure it had a rubber seal around it where it goes up through the hole underneath the gas plenum. Then while holding control valve in place put the screw back in the top of the gas plenum through the other hole on top of the gas plenum and screw it in the burner valve making sure it also has a seal under the bottom of head of the bolt that you are screwing in to the control valve. This is so that no gas can leak from the plenum where the control valve is attached to. The control valve threads should be lined up with the bolt since both holes on the bottom and top of the gas rail (plenum) are lined up Use a 1/4 in socket to tighten down the bolt with the seal but don't over tighten. Then reattach the tube that goes from the burner head to the control valve with adjustable wrench and make sure not to over tighten. Then grab the stove cook top that you took off and replace it back on top of stove.After in place make sure to put those two wires back into clip that is under the cook top so wires are not touching the oven. You have to put part of your arm under the cook top and use your hand to try to push the wires back into the clip that's under the stove top. These wires will be on the right hand side. This is kinds tricky to do. Then tighten cook top back down with two screws and reattach the ignitor switch back through the valve stem of new control valve . It should clip in around the valve stem. Then reattach the cover plate over the valves stems with the remaining three screws and attach the control knobs.

Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.

My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.

The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.

I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.

Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564

The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.

I order the part here, the first part never arrived, it was an empty package, the second part was breaking, the glass support was missing. Broken from the vent trim, then I was tired of it so I just put back the original broken part with some super glue on it, lol

Removed face plate (4 screws). Removed 2 screws holding manifold in place. Detached wires from the switch. No need to mark them - they don't have to go back on any particular terminal. Remove the switch from the manifold with an adjustable wrench. Replace with new switch (thread sealing compound on the new switch is sufficient - no need for teflon tape). Reattach wires and reassemble manifold and face plate. Easy fix!

Turned off power to range. Removed the lower panel that was secured by two screws, as well as the metal cover beneath it also secured by screws.. Removed the two screws securing the igniter, and pulled apart the black tubing that secured the igniter. (I had to pull hard to get it apart). Plug the new end into that same black tubing. screw in the two screws to secure the new igniter (this is tricky because one screw is hard to reach) I laid something in the base to cover the holes so I wouldn't lose a screw if it dropped. Screw metal panel back in, followed by the lower oven panel.

First, view videos to know what is an active door range problem.
Second, when you know the problem, see videos on you tube and be sure you will replace the right part
Third, I go to Part Select, see reference video for your problem if you need and buy the part on line, good price, very quick delivery.

Followed the YouTube video and did it the correct way they showed. Note: side trim goes under the glass.