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WGG745S0FH02 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

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All Instructions for the WGG745S0FH02
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Customer:
Kimberly from Beaumont, CA
Parts Used:
W11596211
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Socket set
oven would not light
very simple fix. I removed the bake burner cover (the blue cover on the bottom of the oven), under that is the oven baffle which is held on with one wing nut and removed that. Then remove the oven bake igniter screws(two on the side), remove the orifice cover scew and remove then remove the oven bake burner gently. once these parts are off you need to remove the screws on the back of the oven ( I believe theres about 4 or 5 along each side and there are 4 on the bottom of the large metal plate. you only need to remove the large metal cover every thing else stays put. Disconnect the lower back burner attatchment which just clips into the connecter. once thats removed the part should come out easlily from the inside of the oven. Now take the new bake ignitor and feed the wires through the opening on the inside of the oven that allows the wires to come through to the back of the oven(you may need to feel around for the wires and move some of the insulation aside to feel them) once the wires come through the back connect the new part by clipping it to the harness the old part was removed from. At this point you should be able to reassemble the back of the oven exactly the way it was removed.Now go back to the inside of the oven, replace the bake burner gently over the bake burner orifice and put the orifice cover back on and reattach with it's screw. Position the bake igniter back into place on the side of the bake burner and replace the two screws previously removed. Once thats in place its time to put the oven baffle back on and secure with the wing nut and the last step is to place the bake burner cover. Just set the oven to bake and it should be working if thats in fact the problem..Good luck. Took me less than 15 minutes to fix.Some find it easier to remove the oven door but I didn't need to do this since I had enough room to access the front and the back of the oven without any trouble.
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Customer:
Don from Crestwood, MO
Parts Used:
W11665456
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers
Broken leveling leg.
This is a no brainer. I am only doing this because you asked. Pull out the stove, tilt it back, remove broken leg, install new leg.
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Customer:
Clarence from Monroe, WI
Parts Used:
W11665456
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers
Used stove was missing 1 leg.
My used stove had been dropped by the previous owner. While I could live with the minor scratches on one side the wooden shims holding up one corner were annoying. A new leveling leg was less than $2. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to straighten the mounting hole and screwed the new leg in. This used stove was originally $2000 but I bought it for $999. the new leg plus shipping was about $10. What a deal.
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Customer:
Steve from Dresher, PA
Parts Used:
W11596211
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Oven was not heating
A fairly simple fix that this website did a nice job helping me diagnose and select the part. Only tricky part was the electrical connector on the range side had been cut so I had to splice the wires which wasn't a big problem. Just take your time to find the nuts and replace one part with another.
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Customer:
Dan from Glenview, IL
Parts Used:
W11596211
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Oven Won't Heat
The lower oven would not heat up, the temperature stayed at 100. I'm pretty sure the same instructions apply for the upper oven. This is a pretty straightforward repair with a couple of minor bear traps. 1) Remove the oven door by simply lifting it up off the hinges. Not absolutely necessary, but helpful to get your head inside the oven. Not a bad idea to vacuum out the oven floor at this stage. 2) Remove the two Philips head screws at the front of the burner pan cover - the screws are at the very bottom inside the oven. 3) The pan cover lifts straight out of the oven, set it to the side. 4) Remove the burner cover held down by either one or two wing nuts - my oven only had one wing nut from the factory - nice job Maytag on your quality control!! 5) Loosen the screw holding down the burner cover in the far back right corner. This cover is a steel rectangular box that is a shield for the burner gas / air connection. Turn the box around to expose the burner end. 6) Remove the two screws that hold down the burner assembly. One screw is at the very front of the oven. The other screw is on the left side of the burner at the rear. Do NOT remove the pan held down by 6 or more screws. On my oven, the left rear screw was stripped. It stripped in a very weird way that took a long time to remove it. The threads inside the metal were fine, but the threads that had been exposed to heat were brittle and fell off. That meant the screw backed out about 3/4 of the way and then kept turning. This is where pliers come in handy. It will take some pulling up and turning with pliers to get those stripped screws out. I didn't want to cut off the screw because the cut out part would fall back into the lower pan. 7) Pull the oven out from the wall and unplug it from the electicity. Remove the 3 screws holding the left rear metal panel in place. There are two screws along the far left side and one down lower on the right. The panel is connected to the one next to it with tabs. 8) Unplug the ignitor. There is a white fireproof wire that comes up from the bottom of the oven that plugs into a white automotive style clip connector. Push the tab to release the clip and unplug the wire. 9) Wrap some stray wire or string around the plug to use as a pull wire when reassembling the oven. 10) Go back to the front of the oven and lift out the burner, be careful not wo pull your pull wire all the way out of the oven. Untie the pull wire. 11) Remove the two philips head screws that hold the ignitor to the burner bracket. 12) Reassemble! Attach the new ignitor with the two screws. 13) Push the wire into the lower part of the oven. 14) Go to the back of the oven and pull the wire through the oven wall. 15) Drop the burner in, making sure it mates up with the gas tube in the back right. 16) Flip the rectangular burner shield back and tighten it down. 16) Replace the two screws that hold down the burner tube, front and rear. 17) Replace the burner shield with the wing nut(s). 18) Replace the burner cover, or floor of the oven. 19) Go to the back of the oven, plug in the ignitor wire. 20) Replace the rear panel cover and secure it with the three screws. JOB FINISHED! Plug in the stove and push it back. The oven takes a few minutes to start heating, you should be able to see orange glow around the slots in the floor of the oven.
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Customer:
Jayne from Willimantic, CT
Parts Used:
W11665456
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Leveling legs were broken during the summer
The range in my classroom had the leveling legs broke off by the summer staff. I ordered two new leveling legs and the night custodian replaced them in about 45 minutes and them leveled the stove. Parts were just as stated and easy to order.
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Customer:
William from Viera, FL
Parts Used:
W11596211
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Lower oven wouln't come up to preset temperatur
1. Opened oven door and removed bottom covers plates to expose igniter and removed it. 2. Located hole in oven rear where the igniter connector and leads went through. 3. Pulled oven forward to allow access to rear bottom left cover plate where leads came through and removed plate to obtain access. 4. Installed replacement igniter in place of old iginter and ran its leads and connector through the oven hole. 5. Since the new igniter connector was unlike the old one, I had to replace the new igniter connector with the old one. Allowing sufficient lengths to properly make splices, I cut the igniter connectors off so that I could eventually match the mating connecter to the oven control circuit. I used a wire striper and pliers to make good splices. I covered the splices with plastic wire nuts normally used for insulating splices. I left the splices and the igniter connector outside the oven back for protection from the heat inside the oven. 6. After ensuring that oven insulation material was positioned to essentially cover the hole where the connector wires go through, I replaced the cover plate at rear of the oven and the cover plates inside the oven. 7. I checked oven for proper operation and found it now to be OK. Range was returned to normal position..problem corrected.
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Customer:
Dave from Strasburg, CO
Parts Used:
W11596211
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Lower oven would not ignite
Removed grills, lower burner cover and burner inlet cover. I then pulled burner out far enough until plug for igniter was exposed. Unclipped wire connection by squeezing in retainer clip and then pulled apart. Pulled burner tube/igniter assembly out and removed two igniter retaining screws. Then reinstalled in reverse order.
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Customer:
Renee from Crawfordville, GA
Parts Used:
W11596211
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
lower oven wouldn't heat
removed oven door, unscrewed 2 screws on front of plate covering burner at bottom of oven. Undid wing nuts on tent-like cover, unscrewed 2 screws at back of burner (igniter "hiding" under left back side). Pulled oven away from wall (yuch, where did that stuff come from?), unscrewed 2 screws of bottom plate, undid connector to old igniter, fished wires with connector from new igniter, plugged them in. Attached new igniter to bottom of burner, rescrewed. Put all screws and parts back in correct places. Cleaned oven door before putting it back on. Turned oven on........baked bread!! Hooray! Repair was easy-peasy!
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Customer:
Deb from Eastvale, CA
Parts Used:
WPW10179152
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Missing oven racks
We have double wall ovens and each one only had a single oven rack in it. After 3+ years, I was tired of dealing with the issue so I ordered two new racks from PartSelect. They came quickly and fit perfectly. All I had to do was open the box, remove the rack and slide it into the oven. No muss, no fuss. Why didn't I do this years ago??
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Customer:
Charles from Oceanside, CA
Parts Used:
W11594027
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Damaged Socket When Removing Bulb Base
This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.
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Customer:
Michael from Waxhaw, NC
Parts Used:
WPW10179152
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Remove racks before self-cleaning
Similar to another customer, the racks were not removed before self-cleaning. The issue was that I AM THE HUSBAND and I admit that I did it. Ooops. Great price and if I do it again, I will go back to parts select to get a replacement.
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Customer:
Lance from Northfield, IL
Parts Used:
WP7430P044-60
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Erratic oven temperature, would not hold a setting or would get to that setting and then loose it shortly afterward.
Removed two screws on sensor in the oven. Pulled out stove and after unplugging same removed the back panel. Sensor has an electric connection on the rear of the oven with a connection that is easily separated. Threaded new sensor electrical connection through inside of oven and connected on the back of stove. Pushed insulation back around the wire were in goes through to the oven. Replaced back on stove and screwed in two screws which hold sensor inside the oven. Replaced back cover on stove, plugged it in and pushed it back in place. Did the trick for me..
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Customer:
Grant from Alexandria, VA
Parts Used:
8009
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Light bulb failure
Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.
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All Instructions for the WGG745S0FH02
61 - 75 of 87