YWFE381LVS1 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Undid one screw. Removed the broken slide. Replaced with new slide an fastened with the existing screw. Problem solved.

Our repair was extrodinarily easy. As my husband was taking out the old element and the oven was off, the element heated up and actually burned him. He readjusted it and it refused to heat again. We figured at that point that there must be a short, so we never even opened the box with the new element. A short time later we decided to use the top of the stove for soup and a small fire started in the oven. We turned off the braker at that point and ordered a new oven.

Used a phillips head screwdriver to remove the single screw holding the part in place and put the new one on. Finding the part on this site was a breeze and it arrived quickly. A first rate experience all around.

very expensive to buy the part but just tighten the screw intot eh predefined place.

I used a phillips screwdriver and replaced the part with one screw.Very easy and replaced my lower drawer under my oven,it tool about three to five minutes at the most and my drawer works fine now.Thanks for the instruction video on line, it really helped.

It was alittle difficult at 1st to remove the clips that held in the socket. But once out everything went smoothly.

Remove 2 screws inside oven holding element . Remove screws holding back panel. Plug wires (2) into new element.Install back panel . Done.

First I cut electric power off removed the two screws that hold glass top lifted up and removed two screws that hold element in place. I disonnected the wires and then pulled the element out

very easy watched the howto you gave

pulled range from between counter cabinets.
Opened breaker. Disconnected plug.
Removed back panel. 12 sheet metal screws.
Pulled off plastic knob.
Removed 2 machine screws coding control switch.
Used flat screwdriver to pry off 2 connectors.
Checked part number matched new part.
Pushed connectors onto control switch. Only fit one way.
Reinstalled switch with 2 machine screws.
Reinstalled back panel Most time consuming to get 12 sheet metal holes to line up panel-to-range.
Reconnected 220VAC plug. Reset breaker.
Tested control switch could turn on a fraction of the burner.
Pushed range back between cabinets.
Somehow height had changed so perpendicular drawer interfered with range handle. Maybe foot rotated when pulled out?
Removed lower large pan drawer. Lowered right front range foot to raise range handle. 2nd longest time consumed.
Re-installed lower large pan drawer

Access to burner nothing like on-line videos:

1) Remove 4 screws under front control panel. (Oven door needs to be open.)
2) Remove 2 flat head screws on sides of control panel. This will loosen control panel. Capture control panel to keep from hanging from wires/connectors. I used hooks made from a wire hanger.
3) Remove 2 screws to remove two steel panels on either side of stove.
4) Remove rear screw of the 2 front screws now exposed and 2 rear screws near top of stove.
5) Carefully flip over glass top being careful not to pull on the wires.
6) Identify burner to be replaced. Note 2 numbers where two clamps are attached to burner.
7) Using 3/8” nut driver, remove screws to allow removal of burner. Remove wires per included instructions. Remove burner.
8) Place new burner under clamps and align to the holes by the two numbers noted in step 6 above.
9) Connect wires to new burner as per included instructions.
10) Reverse removal steps.

Went well. Husband, who has some appliance repair experience, did repair in less than a hour. Replacement burner was not an exact duplicate of original but he was able to adjust for that.

I found on youtube Also we marked each wire with masking tape 1A and 1B, 2A and 2B. The wires were the same color.

First I threw the breaker for the stove to off. I pulled the whole stove out, removed the back cover, removed the knob from the faulty control switch and then unscrewed the two screws holding in the switch. I then pulled the wires from the back of the faulty switch, inserted the wires into the new switch, reattached the two screws that hold the switch in. I threw the breaker back on and turned the burner on long enough to make sure that both dual elements came on and went off like they should. At that point I reattached the back cover and shoved the stove back onto its' slot. All is well and all went well.

Removed the ifinite controlswitch and replaced it but i dont believe it is wired correctly. now it wont get hot until it is set on four or so. think i the way it is wired.