GW395LEGT6 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Removed two screws that attach the oven lighter to the burner. Removed the cover from the back side of the oven (3 screws). Unplugged the two wires from the end of the lighter. I taped a piece of string to the wire ends and pulled the unit out. Taped the new wires to the string, and pulled them back through the insulation. Reattached everything and THE OVEN LIT. Thanks, PartSelect, You saved me an expensive service call. Also, the replacement part arrived in less than 24 hours!

I was not around the entire time a neighbor was working to get the door removed. He only said he had to remove an additional screw so I'm not sure I can be of much help here.Once the door was removed however, the repair went easily. I would tell anyone needing this repair to be prepared to clean a number of crevices around the door. I was glad to have a chance to clean these hidden places.Let me also said customer service rep was wonderful.

Took door apart no problem had a little trouble putting it back together just one piece I put back wrong had to start over not to bad still took less then one hour

ordered replacement glass. removed oven door. dismantled parts, replaced glass and reassembled door and reattached to oven.

repair failed; after much difficulty in accessing the small bolts that hold the 'spark igniters' in place; rear two were more accessible, front two proved impossible. Next step, invest in a new slide-in stove. The repair was a dad guess on my part; although designers often consider repair as a non-option, -sad but true.

Most of the basics have been covered in previous post. I can add this- those who claim 15 minute-fixes are delusional, unless they're appliance repairmen. Secondly- what will take time is the cleaning. If you have to do this repair, which requires extensive disassembly of the door, it would be foolish not to take advantage of the opportunity to thoroughly clean all four layers of glass. Take the glass panes outside and use oven cleaner. This takes time. Other than that, the pancakeing of the components on re-assembly is tricky, but you can do it. Don

The oven light gasket had deteriorated with time and bulb changes. It is a self cleaning oven, which gets very hot during the cleaning cycle. The oven is old (27years) and off the "books" I selected a similar, but slightly smaller gasket (3" OD), and "fit" it to the 3.5" light fixture of the older oven. The gasket material was similar to the original, and I used a usable portion of the original,along with the new gasket to build a gasket for the light lense. Several years prior to this repair, I replaced the oven door springs. Whirlpool, who had taken over what was left of Chambers, had the springs. I did replace one heating element about 15 years ago. The Chamber's salesman told me that the Chambers was the "Cadillac" of all ovens, and it seems to keep running.

I followed the instructions submitted by other users which were helpful. Two notes that might help someone. 1. To loosen the screws holding the inner door glass, use channel lock type pliers to slightly twist the square bracket the screw is holding. The screw comes out easily then. 2. Note that the flange on the side rails go UNDER the glass door front. I spent quite a bit of time trying to get screw holes lined up with the flanges on top - DUH!

Per the instructions listed in your customer replies

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

Pulled insulation out of the way to feed wires through. Might have helped to tie pull string to old wires but fishing them through was not to difficult.No need to cut wires; it is not a good idea to make unnecessary splices.

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

Replaced valve, 3 pipe connections 4 wire connections, still did not work, small flip up valve was set at off position, set to on, still did not work, replaced ignitor, bingo that was the real problem, reinstalled old valve, still working fine; returned new valve assembly for full refund! Thank You

Take 4 screws off to remove oven pan, once pan is off , you can see the igniter. Take off two screws and remove old igniter. Be sure to run wires on new igniter where they were on the old igniter.

Replacing the igniter took care of the problem. I just wish I had made better notes about how the wire were routed. It would have saved time as I re-assembled everything. Th ejob itself was really easy.