GW397LXUS06 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

I replaced the igniter.

Unplugged the oven from electricity. Took off the bottom(Floor) of the inside of the oven. Checked that the new part looked the same as the old. It did. Then I checked the back of the oven, had to take off a cover, and the connector in the back was not the same. I did not that it had the same two wires so rather than send it back, I figured I could make it work. I started to take off the old piece by unscrewing the two screws. They were a bit rusted, one came off the other I had to hacksaw and twist off. I cut the old connecting end off of the old part and the end off of the new part stripped the cover off the ends of the wires, and put the old end to the new part, having also put the old wire covers over the new wires. then twisted the end together and wrapped the in electrical tape. I had to take the piece that held the new part out of the oven the tried to use the one semi-good old screw, then some newer screws, then finally used some new nuts and bolts to connect the part tightly. put everything back together and it worked.

First, I called Sears who wanted $440.00 to send a tech out to repair the stove. Second, I visited various web sites to find out what the problem was. I watched a brief video on Part Select which showed the repair of the stove. I then checked other parts stores on the web and selected Part Select based on price and video. Installation was very easy just as the video showed. Stove was repaired in less than 30 minutes.

watched video provided when ordered part; follow the steps, easy as pie

Undid screws on front and some on the back and replaced part and put screws back on and it fixed the proble

Remove back panel(4 screws). Unplug igniter and sensor. Unscrew the igniter and the oven sensor from inside oven(4 more screws). Pull old igniter and sensor out of oven. Replace with new and tuck wires through holes. Replace the four screws. Plug new wires in at rear of oven and replace back panel with the other four screws. Push the unit back to the wall and fire it up. As easy as that. 15 minutes to save at least $200.00 dollars.

The feedback from other customers was excellent. It does come apart in layers, and it helped me to number each layer with a sticky note as I dismantled it. I also kept the screws for each layer right next to the layer, so that I knew how many screws each layer used. The only thing I can add is that the tabs to remove the innermost glass from the frame are on one of the shorter sides of the rectangular frame. The tabs are part of the frame, and when you bend them outward the side of the frame detaches and you can replace the glass easily. In addition to the #1 Philips screwdriver, all I needed was a pair of pliers to bend the tabs.

Got the part, changed it, works great. That's all

opened the oven door, remove racks, remove lower drawer, unscrew protective panel on lower part, take out the bottom plate, unclip the old igniter, clip in new igniter, put everything back together and you are done!

The igniters burn out periodically, light bulbs, and have to be replaced. There are two of them, one for the oven and one for the broiler. To get access to the one for the oven, I removed the shelves and the floor of the oven. It lifts out. Two screws hold the igniter to a mounting bracket by the burner. The wires on the igniter pass through a hole in the back of the oven. There was not be enough slack in the wire to get the connector through the hole, so I had to get acess to it from below. I removed the storage drawer from the range. At the back, behind the drawer is a panel that's held on by two screws. I removed the panel and disconnected the igniter wires. I fed the new igniter wire through the hole in the oven and connected it. Then I replaced the panel and the drawer, screwed the igniter in place and replaced the floor of the oven.

1)Completely removed racks, oven bottom and broiler drawer to access unit. 2)Shut off gas supply by by pulling horizontal lever on left side of safety valve forward to close valve. 3)With screwdriver, removed heat shield covering safety valve and connector from igniter. 4)With socket wrench, removed the two mounting screws on igniter. 5)Installed new igniter, connecting to safety valve. 6)Turned on gas supply by pushing horizontal lever to left of safety valve back to open valve (see step 2). Turned on oven to test. 7)Upon gas igniting, shut off oven and install oven components in reverse order.

Hello,

Your website and prediction that this replacement part was the problem were exactly correct. This part was easy to remove and replace, it is the starter for the oven so it comes with a heating element and a built in connector. I simply pulled the old wires up, unhooked the connector and removed the two mounting screws. Plugged in the new part, pushed the connector back down past the insulation, re-installed the screws and turned the oven on and poof, it started up again. We have also noticed that the oven stays hotter now, just like it did when we bought it.

Thank you very much for the advice and for supplying the correct part. A $65 part is much better than having to buy a $500 new stove/oven. We are very happy we found you and will use you again should some other appliance break down.

Sincerely,
Jim Arao
Seaside, CA 93955

I had to pull the range out from the wall and loosen the rear cover to free the connector for the sensor as it got stuck on a corner guide. Put the new sensor in, rear cover back on, range back in place and tested the oven. Oven heats fast now and keeps a more even temp. Makes me wonder how long I was trying to cook with a bad sensor.