CREW3874RW0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Just follow included instructions.

After doing a YouTube search. I successfully completed the repair by easily diagnosing the issue with the element.
I watched a video about 5 most common problems with whirlpool broiler elements.
The first being to inspect the element for damage. I found a small section that appeared to be rough and had a raised bump.
I decided to order a new element because the oven is older and it wouldn’t hurt to install a new one even if this wasn’t the issue.
Once the part arrived, which it did quickly, I followed the video instructions. It was easy and straight forward. I completed the task in under thirty minutes. It was very simple and I now have a functional broiler element.

First Things first, unplug unit, remove rear cover with Phillips head screwdriver, disconnect, wires from broiler element which is the top, one, open oven, unscrew top screws first, then two at the back, wiggle out element, then reverse Steps , test repair before putting cover back on. Then ta-da, you saved yourself a $300. Service call to the appliance repair guy.

Watched video & did just guy in video did. Very easy job & the burner works like new.

By hand screwdriver

I shut off the breaker to the stove. I removed 2 screws from the underside of the cooktop at the front of the unit. I raised the cooktop and had my helper hold the top at an angle to access the burner. I removed 2 screws attached to the burner and then loosened the 2 clips and moved them to release the burner. I transferred the electrical connections from the old to the new. Reinstalled the burner and cooktop. Turned the breaker on, tested the new burner and I was fone

1. Pull the stove away from the wall and unplug the stove from the 240 volt receptacle.
2. Remove the knob from the switch (it just pulls off).
3. Unscrew the top half of the back plate of the stove and removed (about eight or so screws).
4. Unscrew the two screws attaching the control switch in the front of the control panel (these were hidden by the control knob just removed).
5. Pull out the control switch and detach one at a time the two sets of wire connectors attached to the switch. In order not to confuse which plug goes where, attach each connector to the new switch as you remove them. (Note: the connectors may be quite tight to the original switch; do not pull on the wires but simply work each connector gently until it slides off. They will reattach to the new control switch much easier.)
6. Reinstall the new switch to the stove in reverse order of removal. Make sure that the control knob, when the switch is reattached, is in the off position pointing straight up.
7. Reattach the upper back plate of the stove. For safety's sake, do this before reconnecting the stove to power.
8. Plug in the stove and test to ensure that the switch is working properly.

Pleaae prepopulate the manufacturer and part i purchased. I fix a lot of appliances so cannot expend the effort to decipher this.

Be well.

My husband unscrewed the bad switch and replaced with the new one.

Remove 2 screws inside oven holding element . Remove screws holding back panel. Plug wires (2) into new element.Install back panel . Done.

Our repair was extrodinarily easy. As my husband was taking out the old element and the oven was off, the element heated up and actually burned him. He readjusted it and it refused to heat again. We figured at that point that there must be a short, so we never even opened the box with the new element. A short time later we decided to use the top of the stove for soup and a small fire started in the oven. We turned off the braker at that point and ordered a new oven.

very expensive to buy the part but just tighten the screw intot eh predefined place.

Broiler worked, Oven did not.
Remove two Phillips screws, unplug element, reverse for installation.
Did not correct the issue.
After replacing the oven temperature control also, it turned out the control board was the issue all along.

pulled range from between counter cabinets.
Opened breaker. Disconnected plug.
Removed back panel. 12 sheet metal screws.
Pulled off plastic knob.
Removed 2 machine screws coding control switch.
Used flat screwdriver to pry off 2 connectors.
Checked part number matched new part.
Pushed connectors onto control switch. Only fit one way.
Reinstalled switch with 2 machine screws.
Reinstalled back panel Most time consuming to get 12 sheet metal holes to line up panel-to-range.
Reconnected 220VAC plug. Reset breaker.
Tested control switch could turn on a fraction of the burner.
Pushed range back between cabinets.
Somehow height had changed so perpendicular drawer interfered with range handle. Maybe foot rotated when pulled out?
Removed lower large pan drawer. Lowered right front range foot to raise range handle. 2nd longest time consumed.
Re-installed lower large pan drawer

First I threw the breaker for the stove to off. I pulled the whole stove out, removed the back cover, removed the knob from the faulty control switch and then unscrewed the two screws holding in the switch. I then pulled the wires from the back of the faulty switch, inserted the wires into the new switch, reattached the two screws that hold the switch in. I threw the breaker back on and turned the burner on long enough to make sure that both dual elements came on and went off like they should. At that point I reattached the back cover and shoved the stove back onto its' slot. All is well and all went well.