SF387LEGN4 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Remove the side covers. Remove the 2 screws on the back side of the door, hold on to the glass and front panel, they will fall out. remove the 2 screws holding the handle. Put the new handle in place and insert screws, note the old handle had metal inserts that are threaded, the new does not. Had to push very hard and let the screws bite into the plastic.

Unplug the electrical cord. Remove all the grates and burner caps. Remove the two philips-head screws on each burner. Slide the plastic putty knife under the cooktop in the front to locate two clips. Push in to disengage clips and lift cooktop up in front. Disengage cooktop from the rear of the range. Remove the bad igniter from the burner head and replace with the new, Disconnect the wire from the spark module and install the new wire. Replace the cooktop by securing the rear first and then lowering into place until the clips engage. Replace the philips screws on the burners and the caps and grates. Plug the range back in and you are done.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

I took apart the bottom of the oven to see the ignighter. I moved the oven away from the wall and took off the metal plate that covers the ignighter electrical connection.Unplug the old part and plug in the new one. With the nutdriver remove the two screws holding the part onto the gas tube. Save the screws and attach the new part with them. Turn on the oven to see if the gas tube lights. If all is good put the metal plate on the back of the oven and replace the other oven parts. Make biscuits!!

This oven probably was manufactured in the '60s when the house was built. The door doesn't just pull off like the newer models. These pins fit into small holes on the oven hinges. I inserted the pins and lifted the door to a 45 degree angle, before pulling the door completely off. Now that turned out to be the easy part. I then proceeded to completely dismantle the door. It actually has 4 glass layers which had to be cleaned individually. The hardest part of all was actually remembering how to put it back together again. I put the door back on just as I had removed it, then took out the pins, and I was finally done! This was not an easy project, BUT the results look great.

took out old oven bottom by removing 2 screws, placed the new oven bottom in place put the screws back in and was done.

Pull range out from the wall. Unplugged the old igniter. Took the broiler assembly out of the bottom of the oven by removing 6 philips head screws. Removed the 2 screws holding the igniter & removed. Screwed the new igniter in place , replaced broiler assembly. Got back behind range plugged in the new igniter slid range back into position & turned the oven & it works like a new one.

Took off oven door removed all screws to get old hinges out. Replaced with new hinges and put the door back together.

The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.

I trouble shot and traced out to electrical short in face panel and found burnt wires. I've been a licensed electrician for years and it takes alot of comon sense to trouble shoot and find problem. I found schetch-matic of appliance and searched computor and found partselect.com and tried it. It wasnt no time and the part was at my door. Thank you partselect and i would use them again in the future. billy

Even though the old igniter still glowed, I took Part Select's advise that it may be getting weak and ordered a new one. They shipped the part out the same day, very nice, however FedEx decided for some reason to hold it for five days before moving it along. Boo! When the part got here the fix was straight forward, just a matter of unscrewing a small back panel, unplugging the part, taking the old igniter off the burner and reversing the process with the new part. Oven lit right up. Thank youfor your advise and quick service.

Loosen 2 screws and put new part in and tighten 2 screws. After putting in new sensor stove gave me another code had new part in 5 min and part select would not take my part back.

Based on symptom, knew either switches or spark module. Checked continuity to each switch. Knew if only one faulty, entire harness must be replaced. Checked out good. Spark module isolated so replaced it.

Took the back off the stove, removed 2 screws, unclipped the bad sensor, clipped the new one on, put the screws back in and the back of the stove back on and that was it - 10 minutes

Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.

My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.

The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.

I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.

Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564