WFE525S0JT0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

I disconnected power cord from house current. Removed back panels (2). I then removed round knob on front of range. I then removed the 2 screws holding the switch in place. After doing that, I gently removed the actual switch itself from back of face panel. I then separated the 2 elements of the switch.

I took new replacement switch and reinstalled the 2 parts of switch and placed back into hole in face panel. I reinserted the 2 front screws that holds the switch in place. I put the selection knob back on. However, the knob does not fit tightly. The shaft on the switch itself is to long, but the switch works fine. You do not even know that knob sticks out further than before. I plugged unit back into house current and tested range element to see if it works. It did so with no problem. I then replaced rear panels and secured all screws back to their original location and that was all there was to it.

No problem. Was a fast and effective installation.

I shut off the breaker to the stove. I removed 2 screws from the underside of the cooktop at the front of the unit. I raised the cooktop and had my helper hold the top at an angle to access the burner. I removed 2 screws attached to the burner and then loosened the 2 clips and moved them to release the burner. I transferred the electrical connections from the old to the new. Reinstalled the burner and cooktop. Turned the breaker on, tested the new burner and I was fone

I had to unscrew the handle from the door as well as take out the front glass, put the trim in place (Thank God for the bottom placement nipples on each trimpiece), hold everything together after aligning all the pieces in place while I screwed the handle back on. The reason I was replacing the trim in the first place was that it is fragile plastic that had broken on both sides when I replaced one inner glass piece that had broken.

Replaced switch. Works right now.

Watch the video...

after watching the video, installed the temp sensor. Super easy

Do not remove the oven door. (Not necessary.)
Remove the lower storage drawer.
While laying on the floor, remove 5 screws on bottom edge of door, two on each end, one in the middle. Middle screw is slightly different than other 4.
Caution: When removing the lower trim, the front glass may slip down. Be prepared to catch it. The side trim pieces may also slip out.
It helps to have a second pair of hands here. If needed: Slide the front glass back into place. Slide the side trim pieces back into place.
Position new lower trim piece, align holes. Start with the center screw, then the end screws. Leave all screws "loose" until all 5 are threaded, then tighten.
NOT recommended to caulk trim to prevent future rust. The caulk will act like glue on the front glass.

REMOVE BACK OF RANGE, REMOVE BURNER KNOB. REMOVE SWITCH CONTROL REMOVE WIRES. REPLACE WIRES ON NEW SWITCH. INSERTED ALL WIRES REPLACE NEW SWITCH RE REPLACE ALL SCREWS. CHECK SWITCH. TURN BRAKER BACK ON. CHECK SWITCH FUNCTION. ALL IS FINE. PUT BACK ON RANGE SCREW IT IN PLACE. MOVE RANGE BACK IN IT POSITION.

Turned off breaker, pulled stove from wall, took off knob, unscrewed and pull off backing from stove, unscrewed heat control part, unplugged wires, plugged into new part, installed part, replaced stove backing, replaced knob, pushed stove back in place and turned on breaker. It worked fine.

Unplug from outlet and top remove back section of range and unplug wiring from switch, remove knob and unscrew two screws and remove old switch. Install new switch reinstall screws and plug switch plugs into new switch (will only go on the correct way). reattach back and plug into outlet. All done and surface element works perfectly.

Turned off power to range. Took back panel off to reveal all controls. Pulled off knob of bad control. Removed 2 screws from the front of the control. Pulled off wiring from back of old control. Took new control reversed procedure. Reinstalled back panel turned power on and tested new control. Total time about 20 minutes

very expensive to buy the part but just tighten the screw intot eh predefined place.

Broiler worked, Oven did not.
Remove two Phillips screws, unplug element, reverse for installation.
Did not correct the issue.
After replacing the oven temperature control also, it turned out the control board was the issue all along.

It was alittle difficult at 1st to remove the clips that held in the socket. But once out everything went smoothly.

First I threw the breaker for the stove to off. I pulled the whole stove out, removed the back cover, removed the knob from the faulty control switch and then unscrewed the two screws holding in the switch. I then pulled the wires from the back of the faulty switch, inserted the wires into the new switch, reattached the two screws that hold the switch in. I threw the breaker back on and turned the burner on long enough to make sure that both dual elements came on and went off like they should. At that point I reattached the back cover and shoved the stove back onto its' slot. All is well and all went well.