WFE510S0HS1 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Element burned out, ordered from Sears. Took over 2 weeks to get, originally sent wrong burner then shipped second one to wrong address. When I installed element I found that switch was also burned out . I ordered it from Parts Select & it was in the stove in 24 hours from the time I ordered it on line. Be assured I know where I will order my parts from now on

Replaced the burner switch.

Snapped in the new drawer glide. Took less than 5 minutes.

The malfunction was narrowed down to the oven door motor lock, located at the upper left back of the unit. Removed two panels from the back of the unit, 8 screws. Then the motor, 2 screws, 4 wire connectors. Reversed the procedure for the installation, and solved the problem. About 30=35 minutes for the job. If your handy at all, it should not be a problem.

Contrary to instructions(go thru front of oven) I had to pull out the range, remove two (2) screws from back chassis. At this point you pull out the connector, snap in new, reverse proceedure. Very simple. Hardest part is cleaning up debris generated by moving range.

Easy change! Two screws in front and grounding strap screw-lifted out and turned stove top upside down on table. three more screws for burner element and then reinstall with first two screws and grounding strap screw.

Take off the back panel of stove and unplugged timer motor and switch on door latch assembly,removed two screws that hold assembly and slide rod off. I put 110 volt plug to timer motor and it did not move, that is how I diagnosed problem. Ordered new assembly (cannot buy just timer motor)put new door latch assembly on and worked fine. Of course unplug stove before you start !

Looked up on-line the error problem and what part I needed to fix it. Part arrived very quickly and everything was going fine until I realized the stove had two sensors. Replaced the top sensor now I am getting an error on the bottom sensor. Maybe I replaced the wrong one. I will replace the bottom sensor with the one I took out and see if that does the trick. Very very satisfied with PartsSelect. Good Price, Quick Shipping, Would do business with them again. They are now in my favorites so I can find them again if I need parts.

Unplug range from 220VAC outlet. Remove screws on back of range control panel and lift cover exposing controllers and wiring. Remove burner controller mount screws. Measure old controller shaft length/new controller shaft length (per instructions). Adjust new burner controller shaft length. Remove wiring from old controller (one at a time) and place on new controller. Install new controller and secure with 2ea mount screws. Re-assemble cover/control panel. Plug range into 220VAC outlet. Have wife ops check....everyone's happy.

unplugged the range, removed the cooktop left & right front screws, unplugged left & right plug & unscrewed ground wire. Parts arrived fast & reassembled. . Happy, Happy, Happy! Happy Wife...Happy Life!

changing the part itself was easy, but the sheet metal covering the whole back of the oven was difficult to remove because of some screws that were stripped. The new sensor solved the problem.

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

since I only had one of two screws, i installed with just the one. it would not work at all using a slightly longer screw, which is very odd.

Took appro 8 screws out of back panel, 2 screws holding switch, and pulled out switch, unhooked wires and reinstalled wires on new switch. Had to snap off stem with needle nose pliers which is simple and put everything back in place in reverse order!

My first approach was to try to find some help on the internet - Y-Tube or whatever. When I could not find anything, I was on my own. My first thought was that the best and easiest access to the switch was to somehow remove the top section of the range which held the switch. I was trying to avoid having to pull the range from the wall and cabinets. But not finding any way to do that, I then pulled the range from the wall, and removed the back panel (8 screws), which gave me easy access. Once that was done, the replacement went smoothly and quickly. So if replacing any switches on this range, FIRST pull it from the wall and THEN remove the back panel, and the rest is a piece of cake!